Kessil Lights and color

CrayolaViolence

New member
I have two tuna Blue 360 lights over an 80 gallon with mixed corals. I got the kessils after having disastrous results with metal halide to the cheaper chinese lights. Learned too late with the chinese lights that they were actually putting out way more light than they appeared to be and since there was little to no communication with the sellers (serious language barriers) it wasn't until I'd sent them back that this was figured out with the help of another reef person who went through the same thing.
Anyhow…I decided to make my life easer (insert sarcastic laugh here) and just put out the money for kessil lighting. I did look at several brands of light but chose kessil because reviews of light output showed very little variation in light output based on depth. Basically, the light distributed more evenly.

I have seen a vast improvement in my corals and growth since the kessils. I've had to do some serious tweaking because my tank is shallow and the kessil recommendations for height won't work for mine because it's too much light, but after some time of the phone with a technician (and btw, getting help from kessil is not fun. You'd think they'd have WAY better customer support, but they really don't seem to want to deal with customers and want you to go to your LFS and have them tell you what to do). Anyhow…there is just one issue I have with the lighting, which while I love the blue, I also have grown to hate it. Why? Because unless the coral is green or yellow, it turns brown. Anything pink, purple, or whatever color, is muted to a dull brown color that is neither pleasing or very easy to see. Some of my corals have simply disappeared into the rock due to the blue of the light.

So now I am left wondering if I should turn up the color, making it more white. While this improves things, it doesn't bring out the pinks. For example. I got a beautiful pink leather tree the other day. I mean it glowed pink. Brought it home and now I have a brown puff ball. Not attractive at all. I'm unsure what to do at this point of if there is anything I can do to get the color of the corals to show more natural under the kessil light?

Another thing, when talking to the kessil technician, he wasn't all that in favor of ramping the lights up and down. He preferred just turning them on, then turning them off. All I ever hear is how important it is for the lights to be on a "schedule" yet he actually said there wasn't much use in it. I asked him about par measurements (A few days ago I as looking to borrow a par meter) and he told me due to the design of kessil lights par readings would not be an accurate representation of how much light is actually doing anything, since you really needed (with the kessil) a way to measure pur not par.

Anyhow…back to the pinks. Is my only solution adding an HOF light over my tank with pink in order to get those colors to show? or is there some setting I'm missing on the kessil. Right now I have the intensity set low, because my tank is shallow, and the lights go from 5% blue to 90% white max and back down to the end of the day. Max output for intensity is 40% due to how shallow my tank is (about 10-11 inches deep).
 
Dude, I have the exact same concern, plus no night light. I am setting up a new tank and I am considering adding two AI primes just for the reasons you mentioned, I can pick which color I want to show, and at 400$ for two it's roughly a wash as I need 3 kessils anyway.

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Interesting. Out of curiosity, what does your chemistry look like? I run a little Kessil on my desktop tank here at work and get great purples, oranges, reds, etc. out of both corals and coralline.
 
Interesting. Out of curiosity, what does your chemistry look like? I run a little Kessil on my desktop tank here at work and get great purples, oranges, reds, etc. out of both corals and coralline.
Yes, but how blue do you run them? And is it a kessil tuna blue or one of their other blues like ocean blue?





By chemistry I'm guessing you mean water parameters. I've posted them many times as it seems to be the first question everyone wants answered. Just trust me when I say they are within normal. It's not my chemistry it's the light. If I put a HOF over the tank I get the color. If I use the kessils I don't. I do have an HOF but its a full sized one and I don't want it AND the kessils (plus it would block the kessils). I would just get a one or two bulb light and put it over the tank for pink bulbs..
 
P.s. My LRS also runs kessils over their big display tank their reds, and pinks show well but they are already very vibrant and florescent in nature. My leathers (specifically) don't fluoresce neither do the chalices or montipora) also which look brown not purple.

I have some zoes with florescent pink/red centers and yellow centers and they show those colors because they are responding to the ultraviolet light. The ones that can't do that (and most of my corals don't) just turn drab under the light.

I really realized just how drastic this was when i tossed a leather that I really didn't want, into my rock tank. I just couldn't stand to look at it anymore cause it was so ugly.

Well, under the pink coral light, it suddenly isn't some fleshy colored boring blob anymore. It's beautiful and pink.Absolutely stunning under the different light. I would never believe it was the same leather, but I put it there myself.
 
Dude, I have the exact same concern, plus no night light. I am setting up a new tank and I am considering adding two AI primes just for the reasons you mentioned, I can pick which color I want to show, and at 400$ for two it's roughly a wash as I need 3 kessils anyway.

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What are AI primes? Never mind, looked them up. How well do those work do you know? I hope to add a new tank in the near future and I may consider using one or two of these lights if they are good.
 
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For PUR vs PAR, he is technically correct, but this holds true for any light source. The U standing for usable, and usually usable is weighted for the chlorophyll peaks. PAR is simply linear weighted energy in the 400-700nm range. A tank lit with the PUR metric in mind wouldn't have any green wavelengths and look pretty terrible - think of the red/blue greenhouse lighting.

Measuring PUR is an order of magnitude more complex than PAR as you need to use an intensity calibrated spectrophotometer with enough wavelength resolution (using a prism or diffraction grating) or a series of very exact filtered photodiodes.


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That's the reason I switched from my Kessil 360 as well. i just couldn't get the right color and some of my coral seemed to not color up as nice. I switched to a hydra 26hd and with the controllability, everything colored up really nice. I'm not a fan of the disco effective I get with it but to have the colors of coral I have now I'll deal with it.
 
Kessil Lights and color

Same issue with me and trying to find out the sweet spot between the Intensity and color.

I just don't know why my acros got browned while my water parameter are just correct ?

So now , I am focus on the lights adjustment , I have seen some review is good but some like yours and mine are just happening .

Is this something to do with "luck"?

For LPS , just fine but for SPS really getting me crazy.

By the way , I agreed with you , The customer service of kessil Sucks ! Even their office here in Taiwan, FYI, it was manufactured here in Taiwan under the name Dicon, and the guy in charge is not good at their customer support . Feel so shame !


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For PUR vs PAR, he is technically correct, but this holds true for any light source. The U standing for usable, and usually usable is weighted for the chlorophyll peaks. PAR is simply linear weighted energy in the 400-700nm range. A tank lit with the PUR metric in mind wouldn't have any green wavelengths and look pretty terrible - think of the red/blue greenhouse lighting.

Measuring PUR is an order of magnitude more complex than PAR as you need to use an intensity calibrated spectrophotometer with enough wavelength resolution (using a prism or diffraction grating) or a series of very exact filtered photodiodes.


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Yes, I realize he's right. However, the only way I have to measure is by PAR. Even though it's imperfect, it's the best I have to go on. Still would love to figure out what to do about non fluorescing pinks and purples and how to keep the from looking so damn brown.
 
That's the reason I switched from my Kessil 360 as well. i just couldn't get the right color and some of my coral seemed to not color up as nice. I switched to a hydra 26hd and with the controllability, everything colored up really nice. I'm not a fan of the disco effective I get with it but to have the colors of coral I have now I'll deal with it.

Hydra was the second one on my list. I waffled between them and the kessil. Should have gone with Hydra i guess.
 
P/s/ Is it me or does the Kessel flat panel light seem totally different than the tuna blues? Because I LRS uses these over red/pink corals and the main display tank and they look nothing like the tuna blues.
 
Well I run 5 Kessil Tuna Blue 360WE's over a 6ft 200g that I used to replace a MH/T5 fixture. Is the color different? Yes but neither is it bad. Neither did I notice a difference in growth or coloration when I switched to this day. The only bad thing I would say is that bushy corals brown or die underneath due to lack of light which is true of pretty much any LED due to lack of reflected light you would get with a reflected fixture and 360 output bulbs like T5 or MH.

To me ramping is indispensable. I use 3 hour morning and evening ramp (on Apex) and run 9-10. I especially enjoy the evening when the actinically active stuff really lights up. I do tweak this from time to time.
14-75 power, 0-68 color
75-30 power, 68-0 color

Of course power is subject to how you have them mounted and your needs. Color is subject to preference. I have run a little higher than 68 but I prefer slightly more blue than white. With ramping you can have the best of both worlds, viewing and good growth spectrum periods. Even with MH I prefered 14k w/blue T5's over 20k or 10k.

Anyway as far as colors go I don't really see what your talking about. I lost some stuff a while back from an Alk crash but here's a few examples of stuff that is the color its supposed to be. There's a lot more but that basically covers the reds, greens, blues, oranges, yellows, pinks, peach, pink etc.

Red Planet
Strawberry Shortcake
Yellow Milli
Sunset Milli
Rose BTA's
Blue Vermiculata
Raspberry Milli
Bali Shortcake
GARF Bonsai
Various Ricordia, Mushrooms and Zoanthids

I have 35 fish and at least during daylight hours the colors are all good. That's a mix of Tangs, Anthias, Angels, Wrasses, clowns and others. Yes early in the morning and late at night when the light is far more blue some get washed out.

All this is no different than a setup with MH/T5. Some things are going to look better with just the T5's on or with MH/T5 both on.
 
I use 55% color and 55% intensity at the ramp up to peak for about an hour and then they ramp back down. I will tell you right now....I use my 360's in conjunction with 6 ATI T5's. I'm positive that's not what you want to hear. The Coral +'s definitely bring our the pinks and reds you're looking for. The White and blue from the Kessils will never do that. Kessils are amazing lights but IMHOthey really need supplementation. My $.02
 
I use 55% color and 55% intensity at the ramp up to peak for about an hour and then they ramp back down. I will tell you right now....I use my 360's in conjunction with 6 ATI T5's. I'm positive that's not what you want to hear. The Coral +'s definitely bring our the pinks and reds you're looking for. The White and blue from the Kessils will never do that. Kessils are amazing lights but IMHOthey really need supplementation. My $.02

I'd have to agree. I'm ok with colors but any improvement wouldn't hurt. I hate canopies but I may go that route or some sort of fixture so I can mount the kessils down the middle and supplement with T5's on reflectors. That would be the best of both worlds AND help with adding reflected light. Right now I'm using goosenecks. Especially for those of us with longer tanks there really are no good hybrids yet and not sure the holdup. 60" is as long as they make T5's but they can be staggered. LED + T5 is about as good as it gets. MH/T5 still the best option but it has its own issues like heat, power consumption and bulb replacement costs.
 
Same issue with me and trying to find out the sweet spot between the Intensity and color.

I just don't know why my acros got browned while my water parameter are just correct ?

So now , I am focus on the lights adjustment , I have seen some review is good but some like yours and mine are just happening .

Is this something to do with "luck"?

For LPS , just fine but for SPS really getting me crazy.

By the way , I agreed with you , The customer service of kessil Sucks ! Even their office here in Taiwan, FYI, it was manufactured here in Taiwan under the name Dicon, and the guy in charge is not good at their customer support . Feel so shame !


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I read or was told, can't recall, which, brown meant extreme growth, color would be brighter at slower growth. So if your acro didn't die, maybe it was growing fast.


You'd think kessil (especially with what you pay for them) would have something as simple as pink lighting in with the kessil blues that you could turn on or off as well as better customer service.
 
Personally I like Kessil because it provides the spectrum my coral needs automatically, I set intensity and I set color based on my visual preferences. I have a Seneye meter and changing color doesn't impact spectrum as much as you think.

My advice is to look at your husbandry practices first or start with something to improve color like the Red Sea Coral Colors program which is cheaper than buying new lights.

I've spent thousands in lights over the last 4 years - I went from AI Sol to AI Hydra to Radion, to Kessil 360 to AP700 - looking for the right color pop and growth. It wasn't until I saw a couple of local reefer tanks and realized that people were keeping amazing tanks with the same lights I wrote off. My friend was using my old AI Hydra with an SPS dominant tank with crazy colors. I felt kinda cheated almost like he stole something from me!

One thing I laughed about while writing this is that after each change in lights, I could swear that I saw better growth or color pop. I guess I needed to justify the hundreds of bucks I just plunked down.
 
Perhaps I missed it, but not sure you ever replied on the color you are running your tuna blues. If you run them right down at the bluest end, I'm not surprised that pinks look drab. I run mine at about 70% - so nominally around 17K - and pinks look just fine.
 
Perhaps I missed it, but not sure you ever replied on the color you are running your tuna blues. If you run them right down at the bluest end, I'm not surprised that pinks look drab. I run mine at about 70% - so nominally around 17K - and pinks look just fine.


When I run them higher (whiter), the pinks of my leathers actually look browner. Lower they look purple.
But my highest setting has been any where from 55-90% (I've toyed with it to see what the corals like) starting at 5% ramping up during mid day then down to 0 at night. My intensity is never above 50%. In fact I just recently lowered it because it was too much for some of my corals. Like I said. My tank is VERY shallow, so it doesn't take much intensity to reach the bottom.
 
My advice is to look at your husbandry practices first or start with something to improve color like the Red Sea Coral Colors program which is cheaper than buying new lights.


I have thoroughly gone through my husbandry practices many times. I'm pretty confident it is not how I am keeping my corals, rather the light. Considering when I put the same corals under a HOF light with pink coral spectrum I get the color I am missing under the Tuna Blues.

Also, as I said before, if the coral has florescent abilities those reds, yellows, etc, show. For example I have some fancy Zoes that show up very bright. But if the coral does not fluoresce then the color is dulled. Purples and pinks all turn brown and or mauve and they are dull.
 
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