Korallin Calcium Reactor
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dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
well it's hard to say, your 60 drips may not be the same as someone elses 60 drips, personaly i prefer to measure in ml/min.
with 4bpm of CO2 you should have around 20 ml/min with average quality CO2. if yours is allot different you may have a very pure grade of CO2 (not likely unless you got a hospital to fill your bottle) or your pH probe is not calibrated. You are using a probe right? a test kit is useless in getting an accurate reading.
kc
with 4bpm of CO2 you should have around 20 ml/min with average quality CO2. if yours is allot different you may have a very pure grade of CO2 (not likely unless you got a hospital to fill your bottle) or your pH probe is not calibrated. You are using a probe right? a test kit is useless in getting an accurate reading.
kc
SaltNutz
New member
dragon_slayer said:
Hmmm - got my Co2 from the local welding supply joint. I'm using a American Marine pH Controller to measure the pH that I have recently calibrated. By way of your advise I do not use it to control the CO2. So the pH reading is correct and I checked it with my Aquacontroller as well.
Tested again last night. Here are my readings.
Tank
pH = 8.12
dKH = 8.02
Alk = 3.03
Ca = 428
Temp = 79.9
Sal = 1.023
Effluent
pH = 6.2
dKH = 18.6
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
welding shops have about the worst grade of CO2 around so we can definatly rull out your having 'pure grade' there.........
i see no problems with the tank readings other then a little low on salinity IMO and that can make keeping up Ca a bit of a hassel at times. 1.026 is what i'd recommmend.
it doesnt make allot of sense why your effluent dKH is so low at that pH level unless it's a very pure CaCO3 or it's about used up.
kc
i see no problems with the tank readings other then a little low on salinity IMO and that can make keeping up Ca a bit of a hassel at times. 1.026 is what i'd recommmend.
it doesnt make allot of sense why your effluent dKH is so low at that pH level unless it's a very pure CaCO3 or it's about used up.
kc
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
are you dosing a Ca booster to the tank? your Ca has one hell of a spike and your Alk dropped. if your not adding anything to the tank (and you shouldn't be) then you need to throw out that media and pick up something different. it seams to be adding plenty of Ca and no CO3 at all.
RGibson,
i only test my tanks pH every few days at different times of the day to see how it's swinging and after setup i hardly ever recheck the reactor unless my Ca/Alk levels of the tank get off or the tanks pH has an unexpected change.
kc
RGibson,
i only test my tanks pH every few days at different times of the day to see how it's swinging and after setup i hardly ever recheck the reactor unless my Ca/Alk levels of the tank get off or the tanks pH has an unexpected change.
kc
SaltNutz
New member
I'm assuming the high Ca is a result of my make up water. I'm using kalk in a container and stir it once a night. The make up comes off the top and although I haven't tested it, I assume it has a very high Ca and Alk.
This is the best thread at RC! At least it's been the most help for me.
Thanks Dragon_Slayer!
This is the best thread at RC! At least it's been the most help for me.
Thanks Dragon_Slayer!
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
i'd stop doing the kalk till i got the reactor set where i wanted it myself. you'll never get it sorted out like this.
kc
kc
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
:thumbsup:
kc
kc
LunarCubes
New member
KC,
If I use a PH controller on the effluent, would it be better to only drip from output #2 (shutoff #1) so theres no chance of that safety feature kicking in again? Would there be any disadvantages Im overlooking?
- Jeremy
If I use a PH controller on the effluent, would it be better to only drip from output #2 (shutoff #1) so theres no chance of that safety feature kicking in again? Would there be any disadvantages Im overlooking?
- Jeremy
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
the only disadvantage of this is your letting the safety of your tank lie in the hands of a controller that will at some time fail, it just happens. matter of fact i have a PinPoint ORP controller that failed tonight and is only 3 months old. i was lucky enough to be here when it started to act up and i noticed that my O3 was on when i didn't think it sould be and it stayed on for longer then it should.
i would recommend setting up the controller as a fall back in case the reactor fell out of adjustment, not as it's means of CO2 regulation, just my 2 cent worth on it.
as for using only outlet 2 that is fine to do so.
kc
i would recommend setting up the controller as a fall back in case the reactor fell out of adjustment, not as it's means of CO2 regulation, just my 2 cent worth on it.
as for using only outlet 2 that is fine to do so.
kc
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
only every once in a great while, for the most part the tank keeps a constant 8.1-8.2
i've used kalk to kick it up to 8.4 but it always drops back to the 8.2 in a week or so and then stays there.
kc
i've used kalk to kick it up to 8.4 but it always drops back to the 8.2 in a week or so and then stays there.
kc
RedEyeReef
Active member
dragon_slayer, I can't remember if this has been mentioned before, but what should the Alk and Ca be coming out of the CR? I know it will vary to each system but do you have a range, or atleast what is your Alk & Ca out of the reactor?
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Alk should be above 25 dKH and with good quality CO2 and media 40-50 is IME very common. i never measure Ca out of the reactor, i see no reason to because it's a useless #.
kc
kc
hi everyone.
i got a good deal on a used korallin 1502 reactor recently. i have everything set up already to my tank. my output rate for the effluent is now at 40 drops/minute as per the instructions. the problem is everytime i try to start my co2 (meaning turning on the main valve), the regulator shows that the tank pressure is 1000 psi, but the working pressure is at 95 psi!!!! it would go back to zero a few minutes after i close the main valve of the tank. i have a jbj regulator w/ solenoid and have tried moving the needle valve both ways and it shows the same level. obviously when i tried to connect it to the reactor, the pump just popped out of its connections probably from too much pressure going in. is there any way to check if my regulator is broken? is there anything im doing wrong? thanks in advance.
nilo
i got a good deal on a used korallin 1502 reactor recently. i have everything set up already to my tank. my output rate for the effluent is now at 40 drops/minute as per the instructions. the problem is everytime i try to start my co2 (meaning turning on the main valve), the regulator shows that the tank pressure is 1000 psi, but the working pressure is at 95 psi!!!! it would go back to zero a few minutes after i close the main valve of the tank. i have a jbj regulator w/ solenoid and have tried moving the needle valve both ways and it shows the same level. obviously when i tried to connect it to the reactor, the pump just popped out of its connections probably from too much pressure going in. is there any way to check if my regulator is broken? is there anything im doing wrong? thanks in advance.
nilo
i tried it again and turned the needle valve out as much as i can and the working pressure is now down to 55 psi. i think it's the needle valve that's not working properly. i don't think i can still turn it down more. does anyone know how to fix it or do i need to replace the entire regulator. hopefully not.
unfortunately i bought it online. i'll try that though. thanks.
nilo
unfortunately i bought it online.
i'll try that though. thanks.nilo
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