Korallin Calcium Reactor
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dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
sometimes when the pH suddenly rises (ran out of CO2 or such) the small particles of CaCO3 that are in the reactor become 'fluidized' because they aren't able to dissolve completely, this usually doesn't last days tho.
kc
kc
jimsar
Premium Member
Repacking Media?
Repacking Media?
KC, would it be worth the trouble to repack media and maybe add some more to make up for the dissolution? I have fine media right now (my next batch will be coarse, that's for sure) and it looks like it needs some "stirring".
Thanks again for all your help
Jim
Repacking Media?
KC, would it be worth the trouble to repack media and maybe add some more to make up for the dissolution? I have fine media right now (my next batch will be coarse, that's for sure) and it looks like it needs some "stirring".
Thanks again for all your help
Jim
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Yes, it only takes a few min to swap out the media, i just did mine the other day. i'd do a 100% change out and if you have the course media go ahead and put it in when you do, your settings should stay the same for the course as they did for the fine.
kc
kc
Hi Smoke,
Dragon Slayer helped me with my setup and one thing helped me in particular with the problem you are having when feeding the reactor with a pump, you have to make sure that in addition to the 40 drips per minute from outlet 1, 1 - 2 drips per minute should be released from outlest 2(directly at the top of you reactor). I think the idea here is that excess Co2 can collect at the top of reactor and by having the valve open just enough, it will bleed the excess CO2 and help keep you canister properly pressurized.
Best of luck to you....
Dragon Slayer helped me with my setup and one thing helped me in particular with the problem you are having when feeding the reactor with a pump, you have to make sure that in addition to the 40 drips per minute from outlet 1, 1 - 2 drips per minute should be released from outlest 2(directly at the top of you reactor). I think the idea here is that excess Co2 can collect at the top of reactor and by having the valve open just enough, it will bleed the excess CO2 and help keep you canister properly pressurized.
Best of luck to you....
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Should I not be running or circulating the water?
Yes keep the reactor pumping, you do not want it going 'dead' or you'll have to throw out all the media and have the unpleasant choir of washing out the stink inside the reactor.
kc
Yes keep the reactor pumping, you do not want it going 'dead' or you'll have to throw out all the media and have the unpleasant choir of washing out the stink inside the reactor.
kc
jdieck
New member
Dag said:
If you are not using a PH controller you most probably overdosed CO2 for a while. When the cylinder is near empty the inlet pressure to the regulator drop thus the regulator no longer limits the discharge pressure which for a while increases thus increasing your bubble rate despite the needle valve.
invincible569
New member
Hey guys! 
As some of you know, I changed out my media last weekend. Ever since then, my pump sounds like its running dry. But I know its not since I fill up the entire reactor then, turn it on. I also took it apart again this weekend thoroughly cleaned it out. I put it back, and it sounds like there is either a rock in it or a bubble. I tried placing the reactor sideways in case it was a bubble.. but still makes that annoying noise. It didnt do this before the media change out. Its an Eheim pump on a Korallin 3002. Any ideas?
As some of you know, I changed out my media last weekend. Ever since then, my pump sounds like its running dry. But I know its not since I fill up the entire reactor then, turn it on. I also took it apart again this weekend thoroughly cleaned it out. I put it back, and it sounds like there is either a rock in it or a bubble. I tried placing the reactor sideways in case it was a bubble.. but still makes that annoying noise. It didnt do this before the media change out. Its an Eheim pump on a Korallin 3002. Any ideas?
invincible569
New member
jdieck said:
Thats what I did. didnt find anything. I will try it again tonight. I could of overlooked something. Thanks jdieck
jdieck
New member
If you can not find media or debris check that the ceramic shaft is properly inserted in both sides of the stator (The inside and the covering plate) and that it is centered so the rotor is not grinding against the stator walls or the pallets housing. Look for any grinding marks.
To slide the rotor out of the shaft use some long nose pliers to grab it and carefully slide it out of the shaft. Do not force it, the only thing that shall keep it inside is the magnetic field. If it is locked in place there might be some small debri or media grains between the rotor and the stator.
Also check that the rotor pallets freely rotate about 1/3 of a turn on the rotor assembly (this is important as needed for start up, otherwise it does not starts or just rotates back and fore). Check that the pallets are not broken or bent.
Lastly check that the O ring seal of the rotor housing goes on the outside side of the plate (Between the plate and the locking ring.)
Good Luck!
To slide the rotor out of the shaft use some long nose pliers to grab it and carefully slide it out of the shaft. Do not force it, the only thing that shall keep it inside is the magnetic field. If it is locked in place there might be some small debri or media grains between the rotor and the stator.
Also check that the rotor pallets freely rotate about 1/3 of a turn on the rotor assembly (this is important as needed for start up, otherwise it does not starts or just rotates back and fore). Check that the pallets are not broken or bent.
Lastly check that the O ring seal of the rotor housing goes on the outside side of the plate (Between the plate and the locking ring.)
Good Luck!
Dag
Premium Member
Here's what I think caused the cloudy water inside the chamber. The filter pad on the bottom was clogged, causing the water to come up on the side with more than usual force. It unduly disturbed the media, now 6 mos. old and rather close to mush anyway. So I think it's time to change the media.
Kevin, why do say it's simple to change the media. I found it a big pain to unscrew the top.
Kevin, why do say it's simple to change the media. I found it a big pain to unscrew the top.
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Originally posted by Dag
.
Kevin, why do say it's simple to change the media. I found it a big pain to unscrew the top.
I'm not Kevin, but for myself it takes about 10 min to change 100% of the media in my Korallin 4002 by doing this:
disconnect all electrical plugs associated with the reactor/CO2/feed pump/etc (i've actually got it all wired to switch controlled outlets, one switch turns off all reactor equipment)
i've got JG fittings on all the reactor so 'pop' them loose for the input/effluent/CO2
unscrew the unions and sit the Eheim aside (i even use the little nylon screw to hold the pump)
take a wrench and screw drive and remove screws with the reactor sitting in tub to catch water/media (i don't find this a pain at all if you loosen the nut and not the screw first)
dump media and rinse out reactor and filter pad
rinse new media
fill reactor making sure the tube is in the proper position for top alignment
reassemble in reverse order
hth
kc
.
Kevin, why do say it's simple to change the media. I found it a big pain to unscrew the top.
I'm not Kevin, but for myself it takes about 10 min to change 100% of the media in my Korallin 4002 by doing this:
disconnect all electrical plugs associated with the reactor/CO2/feed pump/etc (i've actually got it all wired to switch controlled outlets, one switch turns off all reactor equipment)
i've got JG fittings on all the reactor so 'pop' them loose for the input/effluent/CO2
unscrew the unions and sit the Eheim aside (i even use the little nylon screw to hold the pump)
take a wrench and screw drive and remove screws with the reactor sitting in tub to catch water/media (i don't find this a pain at all if you loosen the nut and not the screw first)
dump media and rinse out reactor and filter pad
rinse new media
fill reactor making sure the tube is in the proper position for top alignment
reassemble in reverse order
hth
kc
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
...............What's the proper position for top alignment?
Korallin's (what i use) are reverse flow and have a tube going to the bottom plate, if you just flop the bottom plate in without making sure the tube lines up with the flange for the recirculation pump you'll have one heck of a hard time turning it to align them when trying to put the top back on with the reactor full of media.
the old Korallin's you removed the bottom so this wasn't an issue but keeping media out of the recirculation pumps intake was.
kc
Korallin's (what i use) are reverse flow and have a tube going to the bottom plate, if you just flop the bottom plate in without making sure the tube lines up with the flange for the recirculation pump you'll have one heck of a hard time turning it to align them when trying to put the top back on with the reactor full of media.
the old Korallin's you removed the bottom so this wasn't an issue but keeping media out of the recirculation pumps intake was.
kc
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
i wouldn't, chances are good that you'll eventually get some on the inside of the reactor with your handling it. the bolts should be stainless steal and should not rust, you should replace them with new ones next time you take it apart.
kc
kc
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