Korallin Calcium Reactor

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Yes just unplug the solenoid and the CO2 flow will be stopped, also you need to shut off the feed pump and then you can open the reactor.

The dissolution amount is proportional to the area of the media being exposed but no more media can be disolved than the amount needed to saturate the water in the reactor.
When the reactor is full there is more media area than needed to saturate the water. As the media disolves the area of media exposed is reduced until not enough area is available to be able to saturate the water and the alkalinity content in the effluent starts to drop.
Without tedious testing it is not possible to know the exact amount of media at which this ocurrs as it depends on the reactor design and the operating settings. Although adding media is generally recomended at half in reality you need to add or replace as soon as you start noticing a reduction in the effluent alkalinity.

Regarding the old media. If it has been exposed to a very low PH, say 6.3 to 6.5 a lot of the media turns into mush so it is better to replace it but if it has been operating normally say 6.5 to 6.7 although you will notice that the grains are smaller you can re-use it after a light wash.
 
Cool, all makes sense now.

Is there a general rule on how much media to start out with? 3/4 of the chamber capacity?

I have some Koralith fine grade media, but it may not fill it up that much, if half even. Hoping to get it going without buying more media, but if I have to take a couple of frags in to the LFS for some ARM media, then that's what i'll have to do. :lol:
 
Fill it up as per manufacturer's recomendation, Media is relatively cheap, if you do not; you will be kicking yourself when you need to open and reset a month from the start.
 
The reactors manufacturer or the media manufacturer? I got my reactor used so I have no idea what Korallin recommends, it's a 1502.
 
Is there any problems with running the reactor without CO2 going yet? I was looking to hook it up today but won't be adding CO2 until tomorrow evening after the controller gets here.

Should the water in the reactor be clear or cloudy when everything is operating?
 
When just starting recirculating the water inside the reactor may get a bit clowdy. Once you start adding the CO2 keep it recirculating overnight before opening the effluent, it will completely clear as the suspended particles either disolve or settle inside and while normal operation the water will continue completely clear.
You can run it without CO2 but as you shall try to adjust the PH without the controller first you do not need to wait for the controller to start operating it if you have a PH monitor at hand. Start with small CO2 bubble rate and go from there.
 
Thanks. I don't have a pH monitor yet, hence getting the controller. Like to get it going and work out any kinks if any arise.

I took out my Kalk drip just now and tested Alk. at 10.2 dkh and Cal. 420, I'll recheck tomorrow at the same time and see what it drops too.

I rinsed the Koralith fine media really well and it seemed to be pretty dusty, going to fire up the recirculating pump and see how clear the water is inside. Suppose I shouldn't let the cloudy water (if any) drip into the tank now?
 
I do not think some cloudy water will hurt but avoid it if possible. Just let it recirculate and it will clear in a few hours.
 
I've decided I want to use RO tubing instead of the normal air line tubing. Problem is, the grey FPT piece and the little grey bushing that goes on the air line doesn't connect up well with the fittings in the reactor. I want to use JG valves to control output from the reactor. Is there something special I need to get to do that?

The little grey bushing piece only slips on to the middle of the bushing and doesn't fit all the way threw it.
 
so does cutting the RO tube on an angle then after it's fully inserted cut it square again this way you have a very nice tight fitting/non leaking connection :)

kc
 
How does temperature of the bottle affect pressure of the tank?

I just picked up a full bottle (has been filled but stored in a cool room) and it is only reading 650psi.

Will this bottle at 650psi not run my reactor properly?
 
Ereefic said:
How does temperature of the bottle affect pressure of the tank?

I just picked up a full bottle (has been filled but stored in a cool room) and it is only reading 650psi.

Will this bottle at 650psi not run my reactor properly?

The CO2 inside the bottle is in liquid form and there is some gas space on the top of the bottle. The gas pressure keeps the liquid CO2 in equilibrium. That gas pressure vary with the temperature of the bottle. The higher the bottle temperature the higher the pressure. At normal room temperature the pressure is usually beteen 850 and 1000 psi. I am assuming that the bottle was relatively cold at 650 psi.
As far as there is liquid inside the bottle the pressure does not relatively affect the supply. That is what the regulator is for. Regardless of the bottle pressure or the product demand rate the regulator will keep your set delivery pressure constant.

As you consume the gas the pressure inside the cylinder tends to drop and the CO2 will no longer be in equilibrium so some of the liquid will boil up to replace the consumed gas and go back to equilibrium.
This process continues until there is no longer liquid in the bottle to replace the consumed gas. At this point the pressure starts to drop and whatever gas is left in the cylinder will drop relatively fast.

There is a rather unusual situation regarding temperature. As temperature raises the physical volume of liquid inside the cylinder also increases but that new space occupied is part of the equilibrium process with the gas in the top of the cylinder. As the liquid expands the volume ocupied by the gas on top is reduced.
If the cylinder is ovefilled with liquid, there is a good chance that there is no gas space left on top. In this case when the temperature rises and the liquid expands, it has no way to bo but to blow the safety plug in which case the whole content of the cylinder will be relased at once. If by any chance the plug is missing or defective, chances are the bottle may blow.
 
Yeah, the bottle was pretty cold.

I talked to the guy where I got it and he said temperature shouldn't affect CO2 but he said it should be fine. And to let him know when I go get another one and he'd give some money off the next one for this one.

I'll let the bottle warm up and see if the pressure goes up.

So this should be fine to run then is what your saying?
 
Yes it will be OK to run AS FAR AS THERE IS liquid CO2 inside the bottle.
If there is no liquid you may consider it empty regardless of the pressure.
The best way to know the content is to weight the bottle. All bottles have the Tare weight stamped near the neck of the bottle. Weight the bottle, discount the tare weight and the remaining weight is the content.
One pound of CO2 equals 8.73 cubic feet of gas CO2 at Normal Temperature and Pressure (70F and 14.696 psia)
 
I think the bottle is fine, just the temp. is affecting the pressure reading. After sitting for awhile, the pressure is at 750 psi and the bottle is still a little cold yet.

Going to have to take a drive down there to Naperville and buy you a beer one of these days Jdieck, you've been a great help. :beer: But i'm not threw with you yet. :)
 
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