Korallin Calcium Reactor

[dragon_slayer]

for the effluent tubing i usually use the rigid tubing like used on ice makers or RO/DI setups on mine. i like it's ability to not kink as easily causing restrictions and the JG fittings work perfectly with it.

on the drip control valves myself i use the JG valves, others have complained of problems getting their drip rate set with them but this is not my experience with them at all. the original orange ones are IMO junk and 99% of them leak.

the media will be fine as long as no contaminate was introduced to the container (most likely there hasn't been). when i buy media i get it 100 lbs at the time and place it in empty salt buckets to store till needed, never had any problems out of it. it's always a good idea to soak the media overnight in RO/DI water prior to use, this removes any residual PO4 in it and keeps it from being transfered to the tank. also the KORALith needs to be rinsed prior to this in RO water or at least tap water to remove dust.


jdieck gave good answers to the other questions so no need to readdress those with the exception of the pH controller. i do not recommend you use the controller to regulate the CO2, but only as a backup (i do not use one at all). you do not want your solenoid clicking on/off constantly to regulate the CO2 flow, the more it switches the more likely it is to fail. a properly adjusted reactor will seldom have OD problems with the CO2. the exception is when the bottle gets near empty and the regulator is unable to maintain a consistent regulated output because of the low input and you'll get an increase in CO2 output but the bottle quickly runs out and this ends that quick enough.

it is therefore my opinion that the controller should be set on the effluent to a slightly lower pH setting then the reactor is adjusted to run at, then if the pH drops inside the reactor the controller will kick in then and only then.

hth
kc

 

[RGibson]

dragon-slayer what do used for a return pump on your tank?

 

[Ereefic]

Ok, I replaced all airline tubing and CO2 tubing as well. Still need to pick up a couple of valves for the output #1 and #2.

When I picked up this set up, the bottle still has some CO2 in it. The regulator is a M3. The bottle is closed and the guage on the left is reading 0 but the guage on the right is reading about 70. The selinoid is not plugged in yet. The black knob on the front of the regulator is backed off until it turns freely, then I turned it in until it feels like it's 'touching'. Needle valve is closed as well.

What should I do to get that second guage down to 0? I'm not firing it up yet but I wanted to empty the CO2 that is in there, but i'd also like to fiddle with it. The reactor is filling right now (no media) just doing a test run of sorts. How can I not play with it?

I did pick up an aqualifter pump, we'll see how it goes. May have to use something different but it was rather cheap and available and i've read good things about them.

 

[jdieck]

With the bottle still closed and the knob backed off until it feels free open the solenoid (power it) and open the needle valve to vent any CO2 potentially trapped in between the regulator diaphragm and the output. If reading does not go to 0 the gauge could be damaged.
If it is OK then close the needle valve, remove power to the solenoid.

When ready to use here is the sequence:

a) Open the bottle valve slowly. Check that the connection between the regulator and the bottle is not leaking.

b) Left gauge (Bottle content shall read between 850 and 1000 psi, if it is less than 850 the bottle is empty. close and refill. otherwise go on.

c) Slowly screw in the knob until the outlet gauge (on the right) reads around 25 psi.

d) Open the solenoid (Power it up) if using the conroller insure that it is set up to a setting that will open the solenoid.

e) slowly open the needle valve to set up your bubble rate

f) double check that the right gauge pressure is still at around 20 to 25 psi if dropped adjust the knob while CO2 is flowing

g) Re-adjust the bubblerate if needed.

Do not forget to install a CO2 safe check valve between the reactor and the regulator to prevent salt water backing up into the regulator.

Some safety tips:

CO2 is not poisonpus but will displace the air if it leaks so it can cause asphixia. Prevent large releases.

When refilling the bottle it will get very cold. As it's temperature rises the liquified CO2 inside will expand, if the cylinder is overfilled (very often if not filled by weight) it will blow the safety and if it does not have one (Some valves do not have one) the bottle will blow with devastating results. Never receive a cylinder that is still cold, let it go to ambient temperature at the filler before transporting.

Insure that the bottle is safe, check the latest hydrotest date stamped on the neck of the cylinder. If older than 5 years consult with a qualified filler (A welding shop can help) to see if re-testing is required.

Properly tie the bottle to the stand or wall to prevent it from falling and damaging the regulator or other equipment around.

Be safe and enjoy!

 

[Ereefic]

Thanks Jdieck.

I don't have a controller yet, just basically wanna make sure the regulator and everything associated with it is working properly. Don't want a suprise when it's all ready to go and find out the regulator is junk.

There is a brass valve that clips on right next to the bubble counter. I assume that is the check valve correct?

 

[Ereefic]

It dropped down to about 35 psi but that's it. How would I know if it's the regulator or just the quage that is bad?

 

[jdieck]

It is unlikely that the regulator itself is damaged because the gauge damage is the most common one. The other piece of the regulator that can get damaged is the Diaphragm inside the regulator body. It is a disk shaped piece that the knob presses against when screwed in.

You can have the regulator inspected if you wish by a welding shop which will verify that the diaphragm is not damaged but you can try replacing the gauge first and then if it does not regulate (which I doubt) you can have the diaphragm replaced.

Many people will use the regulator as is but just assuming that the 35psi minimum pressure is the new zero and adjust the pressure to say 55 or 60 psi (again assuming 35 as zero) I will not recomend this practice as a damaged gauge may give wrong readings or have internal leaks difficult to test for.

If the bronze valve you refer too is not is connected via a hose to the regulator most probably is the check valve, if it is directly screwed to the needle valve it could be anything. Any pics?

 

[Ereefic]

I opened the bottle and the reading on the left guage was only 700 psi. I knew the bottle still had something in it, just wasn't sure how much. Guess that tells me it is low? With that at 700 psi, I started to screw in the valve on the front and the right valve did go up. I just turned it a little bit and it went up to 45 psi. Drained it out again and it dropped to 35 psi and the bubbles in the bubble counter stopped.

Any ideas what a new guage would cost?

 

[Ereefic]

The bronze valve has the hose coming from the regulator, threw the bronze thingy and then to the bubble counter. The arrow on the bronze piece is pointing from the regulator to the bubble counter. I can get a pic if needed.

 

[Ereefic]

I'm going to replace both gauges. Will these two work?

https://secure.ramweldingsupply.com/products-view.mcic?s=1229

https://secure.ramweldingsupply.com/products-view.mcic?s=1233

 

[dragon_slayer]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

just replace the defective gauge, no need to replace a working one especially when it's on the high pressure side, you have a far greater chance of the new one leaking after replacement, leave well enough alone on that side. and make sure you use the proper sealant on the threads of the new gauge.

while not as important on CO2 systems any oil that you introduce into the high side, even the oil off your hands when your working with the threads of the new gauge can combust when placed under the extrema pressure applied when the bottle is open, with O2 systems this can result in explosion.

the 'bronze' thing you speak of is a brass check valve, and the arrow indicates the direction of flow.

the aqua-lifter is a fine pump for this type application and you should find it more then adequate.

hth
kc

 

[Ereefic]

This is why I was thinking of replacing the high pressure gauge as well. The backing with the numbers on it behind the glass is kinda messed up. Not sure how it got this way, was like this when I got it. It seems to work fine, what do you think?

Will the low pressure gauge I linked to work in place of the faulty one? Should I just have a welding shop swap it out for me?

 

[dragon_slayer]

the links just directed me to a 'please enter your zip code.........' so i haven't a clue, but most any one in the proper PSI range will work for either.

the choice to swap the high pressure side is one you have to make, i made my opinion obvious in the last post if your local welding supply shop has a gauge to replace them with (and they should) then by all means do so but do not let them swap out regulators with you, welding shop 15 buck regulators are junk at low pressure settings and your M3 is one of the best.

kc

 

[dragon_slayer]

and FWIW the only thing i see that i'd be concerned with on the above pic is the corrosion on the regulator, someone has had this setup next to the tank where salt creep or splash got on it.

kc

 

[Ereefic]

If the regulator I have was yours, what would you do?

 

[dragon_slayer]

we cant go there, i buy all my regulators new and take better care of them then that

but if by some chance mine did get in that condition or i got one in that condition at a really good price (or free) i'd replace the low PSI side only and clean the corrosion and apply a silicone oil to the regulator to slow further corrosion.

kc

 

[Ereefic]

Any recommendation on what is best to use to clean it up?

I got the bottle, regulator, reactor and a little media in a trade. My friend got it from a LFS with store credit and a little cash and it never got hooked up by him. Now it's time to put it to use.

 

[dragon_slayer]

elbow greese and a 'scotch brite' pad.

kc

 

[Ereefic]

Easy enough.

One final question this evening. When I shut down the reactor, what do I need to do to evacuate all CO2 from the system? (Both gauges reading 0)

Also, got a pic of your probe holder cuppy thingy?

 

[dragon_slayer]

when you shut down, first unplug all pumps on the reactor, then when the reactor has stopped dripping (all internal pressure relieved) then close the main valve on the bottle, this allows all CO2 in the regulator assy to discharge out your bubble counter. keep an eye on it and when/if you see water back flow the bubble counter shut the needle valve to prevent salt water from entering the check valve, these brass ones are notorious for getting internally corroded and sticking.

kc