Korallin Calcium Reactor

[jdieck]

Jdieck,

This is probably too complicated to teach me this way. Thanks for trying.

The inlet pressure (left guage) is only 15-20 psi. That pressure is requlated by the main valve (the black knob on top of the cylinder). I still can't see how the outlet can be higher than the inlet. And if the inlet is only 15-20 psi, why isn't it ok?

It is not complicated, sorry may be I am making it look like that. Have you read my signature? :lol:

First. The cylinder valve should be always fully open when in operation; do not try to regulate with it. By the way the regulator to function properly, needs a minimum of around 200 psi in the inlet.

Second. The inlet pressure is between 800 and 900 psi (cylinder valve fully open) because that is the pressure created by the CO2 in the cylinder at room temperature. If it is less than that either the cylinder is almost empty, the inlet gauge is damaged or the cylinder valve is plugged or almost fully closed.

Third. The inlet pressure reading can never be lower than the working pressure reading; if so, one or both of the gauges are damaged regardless of the condition of the diaphragm.

Fourth. In order to find out if the regulator itself or the diaphragm is damaged you need properly functioning gauges.

I hope this is clearer now.

I would recommend you to take the regulator and cylinder to your nearest welding store and ask them for a quote on check up and repairs. Also if the cylinder is several years old (5 or more) it may be due for a hydrotest.

JD

 

[Dag]

Let me make sure I got the definitions straight: "cylinder valve" is what I previously referred to as the main valve? meaning the valve on top of the cylinder, right? (as opposed to the regulator knob which has the "m" on it).

Now the "inlet guage": Is that what I called the remaining pressure guage (the one on the left).

As you can see from the picture above, the needle on the remaining pressure guage is all the way to the left, much less 800 psi, I think.

 

[Dag]

P.S. Do you know any welding stores on the far north side of Chicago?

 

[jdieck]

Let me make sure I got the definitions straight: "cylinder valve" is what I previously referred to as the main valve? meaning the valve on top of the cylinder, right? (as opposed to the regulator knob which has the "m" on it).

Now the "inlet guage": Is that what I called the remaining pressure guage (the one on the left).

As you can see from the picture above, the needle on the remaining pressure guage is all the way to the left, much less 800 psi, I think.

Yes you are right on all counts.

On the gauge reading it depends on the full range and the units of measure. Does the gauge indicates the units of measure? They are usually printed in small letters either below the center or at the end right side of the scale.

 

[jdieck]

P.S. Do you know any welding stores on the far north side of Chicago?

These guys are located within 10 miles of Skokie if you tell me your zip code I might be able to pin point better.

Airgas - North Central
11235 FRANKLIN AVE
FRANKLIN PARK, IL 60131-1105
Tel: 847-451-0061
Fax: 847-451-0196
www.airgas.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BOC Gases
3223 N ELSTON AVE
CHICAGO, IL 60618-5827
Tel: 773-583-4600
Fax: 773-583-6980
www.boc.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Metal Processors Supply Inc
PO BOX 523
FRANKLIN PARK, IL 60131-0523
Tel: 630-238-0880
Fax: 630-238-8866
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Midwest Welding Supply Inc
3900 W NORTH AVE
STONE PARK, IL 60165-1036
Tel: 708-681-8750
Fax: 708-681-3911
mws@ameritech.net
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Welding Industrial Supply
2200 N WESTERN AVE
CHICAGO, IL 60647-3123
Tel: 773-384-7622
Fax: 773-384-7273
www.wiscoonline.com

 

[Dag]

BOC is good, thanks.

 

[Dag]

Actually, on second look, the remaining pressure guage is at about 800 psi (the readings are different than on the working pressure guage). But that's without the cylinder valve being fully opened.

 

[jdieck]

Actually, on second look, the remaining pressure guage is at about 800 psi (the readings are different than on the working pressure guage). But that's without the cylinder valve being fully opened.

It won't change much if at all once you fully open it.

 

[hungtien]

Hi Aryeh
I got the same problem as you do...
Can you tell me how to reduce the working pressure back to 15 or 20 PSI? Right now, My working pressure is 130 PSI.

Hi Jdieck,

Please give me some advice to fix my problem


Thanks,
-David

 

[hungtien]

Hi Aryeh
I got the same problem as you do...
Can you tell me how to reduce the working pressure back to 15 or 20 PSI? Right now, My working pressure is 130 PSI.

Hi Jdieck,

Please give me some advice to fix my problem


Thanks,
-David

 

[jdieck]

Hi Aryeh
I got the same problem as you do...
Can you tell me how to reduce the working pressure back to 15 or 20 PSI? Right now, My working pressure is 130 PSI.

Hi Jdieck,

Please give me some advice to fix my problem


Thanks,
-David

David:

The working pressure is adjusted by using the knob in the center of the regulator. The one marked m3 in Aryeh's picture.
If you screw the knob in (Clockwise) the pressure increases, if you unscrew it out (Counterclockwise) the pressure decreases.

To insure that your working gauge is functioning properly.
If you have flow (Bubbles) just close the cylinder valve until the flow stops, both gauges shall return to zero; if not , whichever gauge is not at zero is damaged and has to be replaced.

It is very common to damage a working pressure gauge if the proper procedure to open the cylinder and the regulator is not followed.

If you open the cylinder valve (The one on top of the cylinder) when the regulator knob (The one in the center of the body) is screwed in (Clockwise) excessive pressure is suddenly applied to the working pressure regulator with the consequent damage.
Here is the proper procedure to open the cylinder and the regulator.

a) Insure that the regulator knob Is fully screwed out by turning it counterclockwise until it feels loose. If you unscrew it completely out do not worry just screw it back in a little bit.

B) Slowly open the cylinder valve until it is fully open

c) Energize the solenoid valve to be sure it is open.

d) open the needle valve a bit (The one used to adjust the bubble rate) You will not have flow yet because although the cylinder is open the regulator is not

e) Now start slowly screwing in (Clockwise) the regulator Knob while watching at the working pressure gauge. You will start having flow and working as the regulator is being opened by the knob.
If there is too much flow close the needle valve a bit but do not shut off the flow completely.

f) Continue adjusting the regulator knob until you get the desired working pressure.

g) readjust your needle valve for the desired bubble rate.

Now the short version:

a) unscrew the regulator knob
b) open the cylinder valve
c) energize the solenoid
d) open needle valve
e) screw in regulator knob until flow is established
f) adjust needle valve
g) adjust regulator knob to desired pressure
h) adjust needle valve to desired bubble rate.

Enjoy!
Jose

 

[Dag]

Jose,

That was very helpful. Since I never understood any of that before, I'm sure I damaged my working pressure guage. Is it possible to just buy a replacement working pressure guage or do I have to buy a whole new regulator? If the former, any ideas where to get it?

 

[jdieck]

Jose,

That was very helpful. Since I never understood any of that before, I'm sure I damaged my working pressure guage. Is it possible to just buy a replacement working pressure guage or do I have to buy a whole new regulator? If the former, any ideas where to get it?

Yes you can buy the gauge alone, the best place to buy it is at a welding shop in your area, they may even replace it in the regulator for you. It may cost anywere from 25 to 40.

 

[hungtien]

Thank you Jose!

I did follow your instruction. However, the result reading from my right gauge "working pressure" is still remained high at 100 PSI.
The left gauge is reading at 1100 PSI eventhough I close the cylinder valve. is this support to go back to zero if I close the valve?

Also, my left gauge never stay at 800 PSI.

What do you mean about energize the solenoid? Do I have to plug it into the electric power? I dont have the PH controller yet.

Please help!

Thanks




I

 

[hungtien]

Sorry to hear that Aryeh!
I think I may broke my too. I am so disapointed with the Deluxe Co2 regulator's manual.

 

[hungtien]

Sorry to hear that Aryeh!
I think I may broke my too. I am so disapointed with the Deluxe Co2 regulator's manual.

 

[jdieck]

Thank you Jose!

I did follow your instruction. However, the result reading from my right gauge "working pressure" is still remained high at 100 PSI.
The left gauge is reading at 1100 PSI eventhough I close the cylinder valve. is this support to go back to zero if I close the valve?

Also, my left gauge never stay at 800 PSI.

What do you mean about energize the solenoid? Do I have to plug it into the electric power? I dont have the PH controller yet.

Please help!

Thanks
I

Yes you need to plug the solenoid to the electric power.

When you close the cylinder valve and the solenoid is closed (Unpluged) the gas stay inside the regulator without no were to go so you will keep the pressure and thus the readings.

AFTER you close the cylinder valve, open the needle valve and plug the solenoid, the gas inside the cylinder will escape, now you shall have no pressure inside the regulator and the gauges shall go to zero. Remember open the needle valve and plug the solenoid AFTER you close the cylinder valve to prevent venting too much gas in the room.

 

[hungtien]

yes, my working pressure gauge goes back to zero. However, the Left gauge still remains at 1100 PSI. What can i do to reduce it to zero???

Thanks

 

[jdieck]

yes, my working pressure gauge goes back to zero. However, the Left gauge still remains at 1100 PSI. What can i do to reduce it to zero???

Thanks

OK we are getting there. While the cylinder valve is closed, the needle valve is open and the solenoid is pluged, screw in (clockwise) the regulator knob. This will now open the regulator so the gas trapped in between the cylinder vlave and the regulator knob will be relased also.

Once the regulator is empty remember to unscrew the knob back out to close the regulator before you open the cylidner valve again.

 

[hungtien]

Cool, you are supper Jose!
Both of my gauges now are back to zero.
What do you think about my Co2 regulator?
is it still okay? No damage right?