Korallin Calcium Reactor

[gigiba]

:mad2:
c-1502 reactor

ok. I fixed the bubble rate problem, now I am having problem to dail in again.

AK from the reactor is 20dkh- i know it should be 25+
PH is 6.55 -pinpoint-brand new and calibrated today
bubble rate is 14
drip rate is 60

media is ARM and it is at about 60% and used about 6 to 7 month.

I am thinking to up the bubble rate, but it will lower the ph even more.
I did try up both bubble rate and drip rate, dkh is not changing much- still below 25.

Does this mean the media is exhausted ?

TIA

 

[jdieck]

It means that you are only using 60% of it and it might be plugged wit fines so the recirculation flow has diminished..
I never let the media get consumed more than 25% before I top it off and completely clean the reactor once every six months.
Take the media out and rinse it in a bucket under tap water mixing it until most of the muddy material is gone and the water comes out just milky. Clean the reactor and the screens in the chamber. Refill it to capacity and set it back again at the 60 ml/min and the 14 bpm You will se a significant improvement.

 

[gigiba]

Thank again jdieck. You are the reason why I logon reefcentral everyday.
Freaking Korallin need to get you on their payroll.

I will do exactly what you suggested.


:thumbsup:

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10211078#post10211078 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gigiba
Thank again jdieck. You are the reason why I logon reefcentral everyday.
Freaking Korallin need to get you on their payroll.

:thumbsup:

OMG, now I feel the size of a blimp!
Glad to be of help.

 

[CamBarr]

does anyone have the link to dragon_slayer's tutorial on how to set up the C-1502 ???

 

[jdieck]

I think it might be somewere at the begining of this thread

 

[reeftank47971]

Have a question on BPM?
I just set up my new C-1502,I have the DPM at 40 DPM and now i need to dial in my co2's BPM to the recommended start rate which is 10BPM correct?? I have had a hard time getting it consistent to 10 BPM. The working pressure is at 15PSI and i am using a new M3 regulator any suggestions. Should i increase the working pressure to 20PSI???

 

[jdieck]

Unfortunately most needle valves are not precise enough to maintain such a low bubble rate and to make it worst regulators in the hobby are not basically designed to maintain such a low pressure either. Try increasing the pressure to 20 psi. You will need to keep the needle valve almost closed but try it, it usually helps increase stability.

 

[CamBarr]

jdieck I too am having soem truoble setting up my Co2 reg i am running a M3 reg and it is hard to get the 15 to 20 BPM Mark ???

any ideas i want to swap out the M3 needle valve for this

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=CO3151

 

[jdieck]

I use one of those and although it is better than the ones that come with the regulator, they still have some issues.
One of the problems that the needle valve is not to blame for is the inconsistent pressure delivery from the regulator.
A regulator designed to maintain a low pressure stable (15 to 20 psi) has two stages of regulation (in other words one regulator after the other) and are called two stage regulators. Unfortunately because of their price there is none being sold for the hobby.
When the span of control or sensitivity of the regulator is not good enough the regulator will open when the pressure drops to say 15 psi and will close when the pressure rises to 20 tor 25 psi.
That span of control is too wide. so the bubble rate will drop when at 15 and will increase when at 20.
The best we can hope for is to get an average of the 10 bpm so sometimes we will see 5 bpm while other times we will see 15 bpm and that will be OK.
Right now I am interested in a new valve I just ordered see if it will do better. I really do not have a bubble rate issue (I use 120 BPM) but have has a lot of request looking for improvement. I'll see how it goes.
This is the one I jsut ordered to see if it does better:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=15525&N=2004+113779

 

[CamBarr]

Marinedepot.com use to have a metering valve but it cost about 80.00 just for the needle valve so i beleve they no longer carry them as they are a bit out of most of our price range.

So would your sugesstion be to set the working pressure to about 15-20 and just play whith the needle valve and hope for some consistancy, how do you usually measure your BPM???

also are there any plans for a slick looking drip cup or does anyone sell one???

 

[cstires]

I'm looking to purchase a reactor in the very near future, and I've read that Korallin are the best. I have a 120g sps tank, still very small frags and colonies, but I'm curretnly using a dosing pump that hasn't lived up to my expectations as of yet.

Will the 1502 be sufficient, and what all will I need to make this a simple of a setup as possible? I'm not going to lie, CA reactors scare me a little!!!

Any tips and help would GREATLY be appreciated!!!

Chris

 

[CamBarr]

as an update the new needle valve is much eaiser to use then the stock needle valve that comes on the M3 regs

cb

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10233760#post10233760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CamBarr
as an update the new needle valve is much eaiser to use then the stock needle valve that comes on the M3 regs

cb

Yes as it is better than the ones that come with most regulators.

FOr a drip cup I really do not know of one specially made for the purpose although I have seen some DIY.
In any case any plastic cup will do. A plastic cup with a handle you can cut the bottom of the handle and hook it on the side of a thin rimmed sump.
Alternativelly just get a plastic cup or glass, drill some holes around the rim and hang it from whatever to keep it suspended above the water and just let it oveflow while placing the probe in it.
If you want to become more sophisticated you can build a probe sump where the effluent goes in from the bottom and comes out from the top, here are the plans:

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10233666#post10233666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cstires
I'm looking to purchase a reactor in the very near future, and I've read that Korallin are the best. I have a 120g sps tank, still very small frags and colonies, but I'm curretnly using a dosing pump that hasn't lived up to my expectations as of yet.

Will the 1502 be sufficient, and what all will I need to make this a simple of a setup as possible? I'm not going to lie, CA reactors scare me a little!!!

Any tips and help would GREATLY be appreciated!!!

Chris

Yes a 1502 is a good reactor for a 120 as your coral grow you may want to add a second chamber but that will be way in the future.
You may want to also look at other brands, there are some other good and popular ones ones like the Geo, the MRC or the Reeftek
if you want to go for top of the line, IMO MTC (Marine Technical Concepts) will be the way to go.
New fluidized bed reactors like the Deltec are very efficient but IMO expensive, the media is also expensive and the design still needs some improvement fo find a way to prevent media particles from damaging the recirculation pump impeller.

What you will need basically is:
The reactor with bubble counter
A Co2 regulator dual gauge with adjustable pressure knob, needle valve and solenoid valve
(M3 is a good alternative and also regulators like the Milwaukee will do well)
A CO2 check valve
A PH monitor
A Cylinder of CO2 (Although there are smaller I recommend 20 pounds cap minimum) Consult your local welding store for availability, you may buy an exchangeable one so just trade empty for full.
Means to feed the reactor, usually a powerhead or an aqualifter pump.

Optional:
PH controller instead of monitor. Will make adjustment easier, more forgivable and increase safety.

Efluent flow meter (Gilmont unshielded Sz 13 tube) if the reactor does not come with one. Makes set up easier although you can use a measuring cup and stop watch to measure the effluent.

Effluent needle valve (if the reactor does not comes with one) almost certain you need one.

Potentially a more precise CO2 needle valve if you find that the CO2 bubble rate is difficult to set.

 

[SDguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10233760#post10233760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CamBarr
as an update the new needle valve is much eaiser to use then the stock needle valve that comes on the M3 regs

cb

I have the M3 regulator. I am able to keep as low as 2 BPM constant. That said, I had HUGE problems with consistency at first. My problem was the brass check valve. Once I replaced it with an el cheapo plastic check valve, no more issues. JME.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10234849#post10234849 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
I have the M3 regulator. I am able to keep as low as 2 BPM constant. That said, I had HUGE problems with consistency at first. My problem was the brass check valve. Once I replaced it with an el cheapo plastic check valve, no more issues. JME.

Very true, some check valves require pressure to open, pressure builds up then it opens and release the pressure all of a sudden then cut the flow again and the cycle repeats.

 

[CamBarr]

ok no bubbles???

Working pressure is 15psi and i had the BPM set last night at 10???? now no bubbles is this the check valve????

 

[cstires]

I was looking at the MRC models, but wasn't sure of their quality. I'm really looking for something that is well built and easy to adjust and maintain. Again, I'm used to a doser, so this reactor stuff is scaring me, expecially since half the stuff you guys are talking about, I've never heard of...

Anyway, I'll take another look at the MRC, Korallin, and Geo reactors. My LFS is trying to sell me a Deltec, but it's twice as expensive once everything is said for...

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10235367#post10235367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CamBarr
ok no bubbles???

Working pressure is 15psi and i had the BPM set last night at 10???? now no bubbles is this the check valve????

Increse the pressure to 25 psi, If that does not work you may want to remove the check valve for a trial period just be very carful that no salt water back flows into the regulator.