Korallin Calcium Reactor

I am having a problem with a 1502, I have been running off the top outlet for a while now with no problems. recently the ehiem on the top has been cutting out making a crackling noise and the circulation stops, and the drip stops. took the ehiem off it is still working. with out the circulation, pockets of co2 build up within the media. also when the drip stops it is very hard to get it back. thought it was aqualifter but that is working. I have not completly changed out the entire media in about 6 months just been topping off could this be the problem? I took it apart and played with it I got in sink by opening the other drip, pump kicked on and every thing was fine. went back to check couple hours later no drip and crackling. tried opening the other oulet again for nothing. And I am stumped. Any idea what might be going on?
 
I would clean it completely out and replace all the media. You may have very small pieces of media getting in there and jamming the pump. JMO
 
Yes, time to take the media out and rinse it and top off with new media to remove all small particles. Also clean all foam pads to restore the recirculation.
 
Ok all...I purchased a "new" used Korallin 3002 setup (package #2 that Marine Depot still sells). The set up was a couple years old but had never been used...

anyway...it has been up and running a few days and during this time I have managed to read all 57 pages of this thread...and now have a couple of questions that are still lurking in my head...

I am using Knop fine grain media as that is what came with the setup I bought...as this is a German brand I gather I should be using a lower PH than other brands? I originally set it up with 10 BPM and a 40 DPM effluent rate...dKH was 28 and reactor PH was 6.4. But reading more, I increased the PH to 6.6 and now my dKH has dropped to 22/23 range.

So my question is...should I bring down the PH again to the 6.4 range so I get better dKH? Or does it need to stay in the 6.6 range?

My other question pertains to PH...I had been dosing with Two-Part solution using Recipe #1 and also dosing with Kalk in my top-off...my PH was maintaining 8.25 overnight and getting to 8.4 during the day...as per Dragon Slayer and others advice I stopped all dosing including Kalk in top off...my PH now drops to 7.95 overnight and only reaches 8.2 during the day...will this slowly come back up as everything gets dialed in?

I am slowly increasing my BMP and DPM as since I brought the Reactor on line my tank dKH has dropped from 11 to 9 and my Ca is down from 450 to around 380...

So long questions shortened...

1) Knop media run at 6.6 PH or 6.4 PH in reactor?
2) PH, will it possibly come back up as reactor gets dialed in? Or should I start Kalk’ing with top-off again?

Oh…I do have the solenoid hooked to an Aquacontroller 3…but using it only as a safety device so I want to tune in my BPM to what I actually need

Thanks in Advance...

Greg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11311270#post11311270 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by glalderman
1) Knop media run at 6.6 PH or 6.4 PH in reactor?
2) PH, will it possibly come back up as reactor gets dialed in? Or should I start Kalk’ing with top-off again?

Greg

Greg:

2) Keep the Kalk for top off, it is an excellent way to counteract the tendency of the reactor to lower the PH.

1) Because Kalk also adds calcium and alkalinity, adjust your reactor once the Kalk is running so it will provide the Alkalinity and Calcium that the Kalk will not.
The PH and DPM are adjusted for maintaining the tank PH, to maintain media integrity I would increase DPM once the PH reaches 6.5 if additional alkalinity is still needed.
 
The PH and DPM are adjusted for maintaining the tank PH, to maintain media integrity I would increase DPM once the PH reaches 6.5 if additional alkalinity is still needed.


JD...let me make sure what you are saying...so I should leave my PH at 6.6...then if it hits 6.5 increase my DPH to keep it from going down even more...correct?

What about the lowered dKH of 22/23 in my effluent at the 6.6 PH? is that still a reasonable level? seems a little low from all these pages of reading!

Also will start my Kalk'ing again tonight...

Thanks!
Greg
 
OH...JD...one more question...it was recommended that I could also use the AC3 to shut off the CO2 after the lights go off to help the night time drop...but what effect would that have on Ca and Alk overnight as the PH in the reactor rises...at what point does the media stop producing?

I mean it sounds on the surface like a good idea...but to me the whole idea of the Ca Reactor is to maintain a constant source of Alk and Ca...Seems like shutting off the CO2 at night would give me swings in Alk and Ca values...

And to all of you "experts"...this thread has been extremely enlightening and very helpful! Last week I couldn't spell Calcium Reactor...and now I have one up and running and feel like I am at least a little knowledgeable on the how’s and why’s of it working!

Thanks!
 
Shutting off the CO2 to the reactor at night is usually a last resource if everything else fails to keep your PH above 7.8 as stability of parameters is the preferred operational mode.
If after restoring the addition of Kalk the PH is still low at night before shutting off the CO2 I would prefer to explore other posibilities:
a) Reverse photoperiod on refugium and/or frag tank
b) Dripping the effluent at the skimmer suction
c) Drawing outside air for the operation of the skimmer
d) Addition of Kalk top off only at night
e) Addition of a second chamber for the calcium reactor

Remember to keep your Kalk and calcium reactor dripping line above the water level.
 
Guys I had to go back to 2006 and bring the Koralin thread into 2008. I just got my 1502 yesterday and I love it. I had to get rid of my MRC. Anyways I need to do things a little differently now and correctly and I ned someone with the know how to school me please. Here's the deal:

In the past I thought once your effluent ph hit 6.5 that was basically all you had to do. Just adjust the efflu drip rate to match your tank levels so it wouldn't add or take away. I would always have ALK swings. I never knew why until I saw people measuring the efflu for ALK and PH. That's where I am lost and telling me to use the CA calculator is foreign. Right now I have my Milwaukee set to 6.5 and the effluent is at 6.8 now so my c02 is off. I have my BPM at 60BPM and my effluent drip at 1DP second. I am about to test my tanks ALK and CA right now. I am lost from the point of the effluent and all of the calculations I see people do. Will someone take the time and walk me through this? Thanks. I know this requires alot of typing but if you can call me PM me. Thanks alot!!!!!!!!!!:)
 
First things first. Check how your Milwaukee is installed, if it is set at 6.5 and the effluent is at 6.8 then the CO2 should be ON not off. The controller should turn off the CO2 when PH is below the set point not above.

Second, no calculations needed. Measuring the effluent alkalinity is basically to know if the reactor is adding and how much, other than that base your addition in maintaining your tank alkalinity.

So check the controller and the initial settings you have right now are OK, if the tank alkalinity drops after 24 or 48 hours then increase the CO2 so the PH drop from 6.8 to say 6.6, if it stills drops increase the CO2 gain so the PH drops to 6.5 If the alkalinity still drops once the PH is 6.56 then increase both the effluent rate to 70 bpm and CO2 to keep the PH at 6.5, repeat the last step until the alkalinity in the tank does not drop any more, once there if necessary, adjust the level of your alkalinity and/or calcium using manual addition of the supplement of your choice and the reactor will keep them there.
 
jdieck on my Milwaukee SM122 I have (the dial) my PH set to 6.5. My PH monitor said my effluent was 6.7 and my C02 was off. I thought the controller had a range. I have since turned the dial to 6.5. Perhaps it was off by a tick or so and now the co2 is on. When I tested my tank tonight itmy ALK/KH was 7. I did add a little ALK Supplementation. So in 24/48 hours I am to test my ALK again? If my ALK is low and my effluent PH is 6.5 because the controller is set to that now, what do I do then? (Bear with me):confused:
 
First it is important not to add any alkalinity supplementation (Kalk, Sodium Carbonate or bicarbonate or anything similar) in between alkalinity measurements so you really know if the reactor is adding the requirement or not.
The important thing regarding the reactor is that it will cut off the CO2 when the PH is lower than your set point but that you do not depend on the controller to dose the CO2. Too much on and off will eventually make the controller or the solenoid to fail and do not cut off so it is important to adjust your CO2 to keep your target PH with a minimum operation of the controller.
Ideally if possible you want to use the controller as a safety back up but not really to turn on and off the CO2.
leave your set point at 6.5 but try to adjust the CO2 bubble rate to keep a range of 6.5 to 6.6 (It might vary a little as your tank PH; the water inlet to the reactor, changes with the daily cycle).
Test your tank alkalinity again so you have a reading after the supplementation and do not add any more until you test again 24 hours later to see if the alkalinity increased, lowered or remined the same with the reactor operating. If it is the same, that's it you have nothing else to adjust, if it is lower increase the effluent flow and because with the increase in flow the effluent PH will try to increase you also need to increase the CO2 a little bit. More effluent keeping its PH will increase the addition of alkalinity by the reactor. Keep doing this until the alkalinity no longer drops. DO not try to increase the alkalinity with the reactor or you will overshoot, if alkalinity becomes too low, make a manual supplementation wait 1/2 hour and test the alkalinity for the next round of adjustment.
 
Is there a minimum recommended size for a second chamber?

I have a 1502 and would like to use an old DI chamber I have lying around as a second chamber to the reactor to aid with CO2 dissipation. The dimensions of the DI chamber are 2" in diameter by 10" long. Will this provide any benefit or is it too small.

Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11588670#post11588670 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by anothermineral
Is there a minimum recommended size for a second chamber?

I have a 1502 and would like to use an old DI chamber I have lying around as a second chamber to the reactor to aid with CO2 dissipation. The dimensions of the DI chamber are 2" in diameter by 10" long. Will this provide any benefit or is it too small.

Thanks.
Although the larger the better any size would help, just notice that if you are using a regular DI cartridge they can be easily plugged in by debris as the reactor water is not as particle free as RO water.
 
jdieck I have adjusted my dial to perhaps 1-2 hash marks past 6.5 just in case my dial is off a little bit. When I turned the dial to 6.4-6.5 the C02 came on. I guess when it hit 6.5 or so it cut off. Now my effluen ph is reading 6.6-6.7 and the C02 is off so I guess there is a range on my controller. I do know it will kit on at 6.8. I ran out of my salifert KH/ALK test so I tested my ALK using Elos. Right now my dkh is 7 (for the tank) when I tested the 1st time and on my 2nd test my dkh was between 7-8. So I would round this off to be 7.5 since I am going by a color change. My CA is 400 and Mg is 1350. My C02 BPM is 38 and my effluent drip is 62 DPM. What confused me Jdieck is when I read where people were measuring the effluent drip and putting a value with it. So what's my next step? I will not add any ALK supplement. Do I wait another 24hours? If so and if my dkh is the same I suppose I leave things alone? If the dkh is lower would I raise it manually? If not what do I increase etc? Also since I see you're knowledgeable about Koralin Rx. I know of a guy who has a 135gal tank and got rid of his 1502 and with with a Deltec $900.00. He said the 1502 couldn't keep up with his demands and he stated a few other things like not being able to maintain his ALK. I told him everyone I know with a bigger tank than a 150 loves it. Why is it that people either love this rx or hate it?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11590436#post11590436 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mmotown
jdieck I have adjusted my dial to perhaps 1-2 hash marks past 6.5 just in case my dial is off a little bit. When I turned the dial to 6.4-6.5 the C02 came on. I guess when it hit 6.5 or so it cut off. Now my effluen ph is reading 6.6-6.7 and the C02 is off so I guess there is a range on my controller. I do know it will kit on at 6.8. I ran out of my salifert KH/ALK test so I tested my ALK using Elos. Right now my dkh is 7 (for the tank) when I tested the 1st time and on my 2nd test my dkh was between 7-8. So I would round this off to be 7.5 since I am going by a color change. My CA is 400 and Mg is 1350. My C02 BPM is 38 and my effluent drip is 62 DPM. What confused me Jdieck is when I read where people were measuring the effluent drip and putting a value with it. So what's my next step? I will not add any ALK supplement. Do I wait another 24hours? If so and if my dkh is the same I suppose I leave things alone? If the dkh is lower would I raise it manually? If not what do I increase etc? Also since I see you're knowledgeable about Koralin Rx. I know of a guy who has a 135gal tank and got rid of his 1502 and with with a Deltec $900.00. He said the 1502 couldn't keep up with his demands and he stated a few other things like not being able to maintain his ALK. I told him everyone I know with a bigger tank than a 150 loves it. Why is it that people either love this rx or hate it?
Seems you are very close toreaching the st point although it seems the alkalinity still drops a little bit.
The controller range cutiing off at 6.5 and on back at 6.8 is too much, you will never really get stability. Adjust the dial to read 6.3 to insure the controller does not cut off the CO2 when PH reaches 6.5, use a manual supplement to increase the tank alaklinity to 8 dKh and calcium to 420 ppm wait 30 minutes
then just test alkalinity and wait another 24 hours. During these 24 hours obvserve the PH and behaviour of the controller. If it cuts off the CO2 bubble rate needs to be reduced so change the buble rate to 30 BPM and obvserve again, the thing is that you want to have the PH within 6.5 to 6.6 without being operated or shut off by the controller. If the controller still interfere with the setup we will disconect the solenoid from the controller and plug it directly to the wall and do not use the controller to shut off the CO2 until the set point has been reached, otherwise you will be at a loss with the controller interfering with the CO2 bubble rate set point you are tryig to determine.
 
Okay I just measured my effluent. I had 57 DPM = 3.75ml(this is what was collected in a measuring cup and measured in a ml syringe. Is that right?). Is that average? I have also turned my dial back a llttle more and my effluent ph is 6.6 and the C02 is on. You said when the ph gets to 6.5 then manually raise ALK to 8.

"the thing is that you want to have the PH within 6.5 to 6.6 without being operated or shut off by the controller"

You mean when the C02 is off the effluent in the cup is 6.5-6.6 and not shut off when the effluent is 6.5-6.6. Thus the controler has been set below 6.5. I will update when my ph is 6.5 and controller is off.


update: effluent is 6.5 and C02 is still on. Waiting for it to drop more. Also I thought if the effluent is 6.5. The PH in the chamber is actually lower than 6.5 thus turning the ARM into mush.
 
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Okay here's the latest. C02 is off. Effluent from cup is 6.4 and I saw it get to 6.5 and C02 remained off. Elos dkh as of now is 8. I still had a slight hue of blue/yellow at 7 drops and 8 made it completely yellow. CA is 425 after I dosed some turbo CA to bring it up to 420. Also DPM is at 70 for effluent. I will wait till the morning and from what you said is observe the effluent ph throughout the day and test ALK again in 24hours. From there what do I do? Thx. I will get this in a moment... ;)
 
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Okay C02 is back on at 6.6. Between 6.4-6.5 the C02 is off. C02 BPM is 67 and my DPM is at 70 for effluent. I have reached the desired PH but aren't I running my BPM high?

I just came back from adjusting it before going to sleep. 32BPM and 57DPM effluent. PH 6.6 with C02 on.
 
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