Large tank project Advice
- Thread starter Herpervet
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Herpervet
New member
I have plenty of circuits to do 400 watts or even 1000 watts.
I will make a final decision on what I use after I see the skylights working. These are 4 X 4 ft (2 of them) and they have active tracking systems so intense light is provided from 1 hour after dawn and before dusk.
The metal halides are simply for supplemental light and to help correct the color (more blue less orange/yellow) and to supplement actinic.
I will make a final decision on what I use after I see the skylights working. These are 4 X 4 ft (2 of them) and they have active tracking systems so intense light is provided from 1 hour after dawn and before dusk.
The metal halides are simply for supplemental light and to help correct the color (more blue less orange/yellow) and to supplement actinic.
Herpervet
New member
I am kinda anxious about how the frame around the tank will look because the overflow is about 7 inches wide and so the frame is going to be a bit larger than I really like.
The plan is to make the fram the same color as the wall to draw attention away from its width and avoid distracting the viewer.
The plan is to make the fram the same color as the wall to draw attention away from its width and avoid distracting the viewer.
Herpervet
New member
Regarding the overflow (see above pics). I have an issue:
I have decided on black for the background on the advise that it hides algae much better and bright SPS colors are more dramatic against black than blue.
The overflow is glass so I need suggestions on how to "paint it black"
I am thinking I will be using a black acrylic sheet with slots at the top for the overflow.
I guess the simplist way would be to silicone the acrylic sheet to the tank side of the overflow. This way algae that could work its way between the acrylic and glass wouldn't be visible.
Also: Any ideas on how to make the water level adjustable? Depending on the flow going over the overflow the water level can fluctuate. If it gets too low the surface water line will be visible.
Has anyone seen a built in overflow design that allows adjustment of the tank water level? I am thinking you could do this by simply blocking off some of the slots but I can't picture how to accomplish this in a "clean" way.
thoughts, suggestions much appreciated.
Slowly approching a very large live rock purchase! (I am thinking Reefermaddness but what do I know)
I have decided on black for the background on the advise that it hides algae much better and bright SPS colors are more dramatic against black than blue.
The overflow is glass so I need suggestions on how to "paint it black"
I am thinking I will be using a black acrylic sheet with slots at the top for the overflow.
I guess the simplist way would be to silicone the acrylic sheet to the tank side of the overflow. This way algae that could work its way between the acrylic and glass wouldn't be visible.
Also: Any ideas on how to make the water level adjustable? Depending on the flow going over the overflow the water level can fluctuate. If it gets too low the surface water line will be visible.
Has anyone seen a built in overflow design that allows adjustment of the tank water level? I am thinking you could do this by simply blocking off some of the slots but I can't picture how to accomplish this in a "clean" way.
thoughts, suggestions much appreciated.
Slowly approching a very large live rock purchase! (I am thinking Reefermaddness but what do I know)
I just looked through this whole thread again (to find your overflow setup). What a great project! I cant wait to hear how it works out.
Since your overflow is built in, I would go ahead with the black acrylic, or ABS sheet is fine too. Hit the back of the plastic with 80 grit before siliconing in place. It'll stick better.
For height adjustment, you can use the pvc repair couplings which telescope in or out. There is an o-ring inside to prevent leaks. You may want to drill and tap a set screw in them, though, as I have had some "walk" downward over time.
Chris
Since your overflow is built in, I would go ahead with the black acrylic, or ABS sheet is fine too. Hit the back of the plastic with 80 grit before siliconing in place. It'll stick better.
For height adjustment, you can use the pvc repair couplings which telescope in or out. There is an o-ring inside to prevent leaks. You may want to drill and tap a set screw in them, though, as I have had some "walk" downward over time.
Chris
Herpervet
New member
H20ENG: I appreciate the kind words. Its coming along slow but sure.
Can you detail the pvc repair couplings or provide a link? I did a search but the hits just show stuff made for repairing pvc pipe.
You aren't talking about adjusting the height of the standpipe inside the overflow are you?
Sorry, I am a bit confused.
thanks,
Pete
Can you detail the pvc repair couplings or provide a link? I did a search but the hits just show stuff made for repairing pvc pipe.
You aren't talking about adjusting the height of the standpipe inside the overflow are you?
Sorry, I am a bit confused.
thanks,
Pete
Last edited:
Herpervet
New member
Ok. I was making this more difficult than it needed to be.
I will simply make the acrylic higher than I anticipate the water level being (all the way to the euro bracing.)
Then what you are suggesting will work and it will eliminate the waterfall noise.
I was thinking I had to guess how tall to make the acrylic (the glass overflow wall is just a bit short (I am guessing) and the water -air interface will show unless I make the picture frame slightly wider so it covers more of the viewing panel but its already a short tank at 31" when you look at how long it is.
thanks again.
I will simply make the acrylic higher than I anticipate the water level being (all the way to the euro bracing.)
Then what you are suggesting will work and it will eliminate the waterfall noise.
I was thinking I had to guess how tall to make the acrylic (the glass overflow wall is just a bit short (I am guessing) and the water -air interface will show unless I make the picture frame slightly wider so it covers more of the viewing panel but its already a short tank at 31" when you look at how long it is.
thanks again.
Herpervet
New member
VERY slow but sure Bassman. I hope to start plumbing the pumps and closed loops this week but I have been saying that for 3 weeks running. 
On another note I had a little lightbulb go off in my head today.
I found a thread recently that referenced a neat high tech system called dialyseas. Its a dialysis system that actually dialyzes the water using human dialysis memrane technology.
Its complicated to explain but the end result is that you get a constant water change done in very small amounts several times a day. For example in a large system you might change 10 gallons a day continuously.
Notice in my system I have a 600 gallon under ground cistern. You can read about geothermal cooling etc..
HOWEVER. If I use minimal or no halides (my 300 at home looks very nice with skylights alone imo) Heat won't be a problem.
I might be able to use the cistern to do the same thing automatically . Simply pump intermittantly two or three times a day and have an overflow in the sump that would drain the overflow.
Just another option for the system and I am not sure if I'll do it this way since having the extra 600 gallons in circulation stabalizes the temp, ph, alkalinity, etc. etc. and this might be a bigger benefit.
(I knew I shoulda done TWO 600 gallon cisterns)
On another note I had a little lightbulb go off in my head today.
I found a thread recently that referenced a neat high tech system called dialyseas. Its a dialysis system that actually dialyzes the water using human dialysis memrane technology.
Its complicated to explain but the end result is that you get a constant water change done in very small amounts several times a day. For example in a large system you might change 10 gallons a day continuously.
Notice in my system I have a 600 gallon under ground cistern. You can read about geothermal cooling etc..
HOWEVER. If I use minimal or no halides (my 300 at home looks very nice with skylights alone imo) Heat won't be a problem.
I might be able to use the cistern to do the same thing automatically . Simply pump intermittantly two or three times a day and have an overflow in the sump that would drain the overflow.
Just another option for the system and I am not sure if I'll do it this way since having the extra 600 gallons in circulation stabalizes the temp, ph, alkalinity, etc. etc. and this might be a bigger benefit.
(I knew I shoulda done TWO 600 gallon cisterns)
dgasmd
New member
It blows my mind how bright that tank looks with the skylightas above it. I can see you won't need the halides at all. By the way, you might find that the sunlight will provide by far much more heat than the halides would! In any case, given what you did with the underground water container, I would not worry too much about it. My best guess is this system will hover at around 78-80 degrees all year round without heaters or chiller!
I looked into those dyalisis units. Way more question than answers and at the end, in my mind at least, it just severely complicated the sysem unnecessarily. Every time I want to get too high tech, my wife puts things into perspective really well: You DO remember this is just a glass box with some colored stick and overpriced fish you can't even eat right? LOL......................
I would do my best to keep this simple, especially since you told me that you plan to train others to do the maintenance. I always say: "keep it so obvious even Stevie Wonder can find the black cat in the dark" LOL.......................
Great work by the way. Keep it up.
I looked into those dyalisis units. Way more question than answers and at the end, in my mind at least, it just severely complicated the sysem unnecessarily. Every time I want to get too high tech, my wife puts things into perspective really well: You DO remember this is just a glass box with some colored stick and overpriced fish you can't even eat right? LOL......................
I would do my best to keep this simple, especially since you told me that you plan to train others to do the maintenance. I always say: "keep it so obvious even Stevie Wonder can find the black cat in the dark" LOL.......................
Great work by the way. Keep it up.
Herpervet
New member
I agree Alberto, The Dialyseas is way too expensive also. I was just thinking that the large resovoir could do automated small water changes and accomplish the same thing.
Anyway I am hoping to get the show on the road soon. I am trying to decide what to do for live rock etc.
Recently I ran across the caribsea Reef bones. Their show pieces are supposed to be 25 to 30 pounds each and might work well for base rock. If I order a palate it would cost around $1.30 per pound (1000 pound order)
I would have to sell off some of it or use some in the sump etc.
I spoke with Reefermadness and they will sell me Kailini for around $3.75 shipped (I think I have to check the e-mail) for around 600 pounds.
The guy at Oceanpro also seemed competetive but I trust Reefermadness more as they have very good feedback.
Any other suggestions?
Anyway I am hoping to get the show on the road soon. I am trying to decide what to do for live rock etc.
Recently I ran across the caribsea Reef bones. Their show pieces are supposed to be 25 to 30 pounds each and might work well for base rock. If I order a palate it would cost around $1.30 per pound (1000 pound order)
I would have to sell off some of it or use some in the sump etc.
I spoke with Reefermadness and they will sell me Kailini for around $3.75 shipped (I think I have to check the e-mail) for around 600 pounds.
The guy at Oceanpro also seemed competetive but I trust Reefermadness more as they have very good feedback.
Any other suggestions?
Herpervet
New member
I'm not sure what pic Alberto was refering to H20Eng. Here are some pics of my 300 at home. I just started addin some corals last week. (I know I am nuts doing two large projects at once)
This tank is skimmerless and I am trying to go very slowly with any additions. (easier said than done)
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