Large volume laminar flow machine

karimwassef said:
True. It was just the only example of one in operation that I'd found.

Wouldn't small sand particles get stuck in the space between plunger and barrel creating grooves and scratches?
Click to expand...


Best bet to avoid sand contamination would be a diaphragm arrangement.
 
I once saw a guy who had a plywood tank. He had two large "grates" on both ends of the tank on the rear panel that appeared to be covered by eggcrate. Behind the back wall was another area (so the back wall was really a false wall), there was a device that was similar to a large paddle that was mounted to a pivot point. a rotating motor was attached to it causing the paddle to move slowly back and forth, forcing water in opposing directions. this caused the entire water column to flow in a back/forth motion in the tank. It is the most natural looking wave flow I have ever seen in a tank. The problem is this design requires a very specialized tank design to make work. This tank was built from plywood, so the owner had the freedom to do a great deal of ATypical designs..
 
karimwassef said:
got a picture?
Click to expand...
If your talking to me, I don't yet have my tank...it's in the mail :)

Here it is though...standard sized 180g

93e8fc44ac3d7893b1e9d36cbfd8b45d.jpg


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
karimwassef said:
Kurt- yes. I meant a diagram
Click to expand...

Its nothing complicated. Just attaching my two CP40s (basically Gyre 150s) to the back corners of the tank (perhaps 8-10" from the corners). Mount them both veritcal so that they blow across the back of the tank long-wise. This will create a nice circular flow pattern that spins the water column back to front, rather than top to bottom that most people use the gyre pumps for by mounting them on the end of the tank, typically a few inches from the surface. That style creates a ton of flow as well, but it also sends a jet of water directly at the sand bed when the water has to turn the corner on the opposite end of the tank. I think by having the water column spin instead of "turn over" it will not have such an effect on the sand bed, and it will give a better back and forth motion than the top to bottom flow does.

BTW, this will be controlled via the wireless T1 Aqua Controller from Fish-Street. My HOPE is that by having a single CP40 on at one time, that it generates enough flow on its own in one direction. By using the opposite CP40 going the other direction, it SHOULD remove any dead spots in the tank caused by the first pump (hopefully they are few anyway).
 
you should check out doughboy's DIY thread. He found a controller and a basic circuit that lets you control it with an Apex or any other 0-5VDC source.

He thinks it's reversible too (at least the motor can turn the other way) through the same controller.

I got it to work and made a video about it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/b7CVC9NgkdE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

All the pieces in this thread are coming together, just very very very slowly...
 
karimwassef said:
you should check out doughboy's DIY thread. He found a controller and a basic circuit that lets you control it with an Apex or any other 0-5VDC source.

He thinks it's reversible too (at least the motor can turn the other way) through the same controller.

I got it to work and made a video about it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/b7CVC9NgkdE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

All the pieces in this thread are coming together, just very very very slowly...
Click to expand...

Ive seen the controllers for the Jebao pumps, though that is a return pump, not the CP Crossflow pump

t1withcp.jpg


Regardless, i already have the wireless controllers for this, so doing a DIY at this point isnt really much value :). Plus the T1 controller has several features that a DIY of this type wont be able to do.

here is the controller
http://www.fish-street.com/aqua-link_t1_wifi_jebao__maxspect_controller?search_string=t1
 
The DCT and CP motors are similar (not like the WP or DC pumps) so the controller should work the same.

I'm getting three controllers for my three DCT15000s
 
By the way, as this thread unfolded, what I was looking became clearer: an alternating circulating current flow of water (gyre). With that as the base, the flow can be made very uniform once the flow is in a continuous loop.
 
I don't find that a standard style of pump is nearly as efficient at move large volumes of water like in tank PHs. I abhor the look of them though, but given the low profile nature of the cp40, I don't think they will hardly be noticeable behind the rocks, and should create really good flow. I can even crank them up to 120% with the T1. That was another reason I got them

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
hmmm.. that's like volume level 11... The way the controllers work is that they will provide the maximum current that the pump motor coils will sink at a given voltage. Unless they're boosting the voltage, there's no 120%.. it's more likely 100% and they start the usual controller at 80%.
 
karimwassef said:
hmmm.. that's like volume level 11... The way the controllers work is that they will provide the maximum current that the pump motor coils will sink at a given voltage. Unless they're boosting the voltage, there's no 120%.. it's more likely 100% and they start the usual controller at 80%.
Click to expand...

Well its important to know that the folks creating the Wireless controllers are not the same folks as Jebao/Jecod. They do show videos comparing 120% on the wirless to the 100% on the standard pushbutton controller that comes with the pumps and there is an obvious increase in output. I dont know exactly what they are doing. You are obviously correct, they are either allowing 20% more current, or they are pumping up the voltage slightly. Either way, I dont care, 20% bump is 20% bump, and I will take it :P
 
Hmmmm... That means that the motors can run at higher output at a higher voltage drive!

Any chance you have a waveform capture to see the peak voltage being pulsed out?
 
karimwassef said:
Hmmmm... That means that the motors can run at higher output at a higher voltage drive!

Any chance you have a waveform capture to see the peak voltage being pulsed out?
Click to expand...

I dont, and I dont know if that controller will work with my DC12000 or not, I think it may. If so I may try to see what its doing...I assume it would be easy to just put a couple leads on the connector pins to see what is happening to the voltage when you go above 100%. I would have to assume it just adjusts it slightly above normal.
 
Actually, so far the feedback from users is that the DC and WP pumps (gen 1) have embedded drivers in the motors and the controller is just a 24VDC with a 0-5VDC. The three pins are 24VDC, 0-5VDC set, and ground.

images

(Note: not my image or circuit)

The DCT and CP (gen 2) are straight brushless DC motors where the controller takes 24VDC and a 0-5VDC signal and converts it into a three phase pulsed drive that go to each of the three power pins (W, U, V).

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/0_zpscihurket.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/0_zpscihurket.png" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpscihurket.png"/></a>

They're not at all compatible across generations.
 
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