Leak Test on Large Tanks

[gofor100]

Hey Guys,

As some of you may already know, I'll be getting my first "big" tank in a couple of weeks, and I'm still figuring out what translates from smaller tanks to big tanks (at least in preparation and set-up).

So... out of you big tank owners...

1) How many of you leak-tested your tanks before filling with water/rock/sand? (I'm assuming most of you)

2) For those that did leak-test, how did you do it?

More specifically, I can't imagine (especially living in Southern CA where water is scarce) filling my tank tank with tapwater, check for leaks, then pumping all of the water out into our yard (wasting it). But then I also don't have enough containers to store a full 190 or so gallons if I just use RO/DI water.

My plan is to test for leaks, empty the tank (at least mostly- not sure how you would get all of the water out- another reason why I don't want to use tapwater), then place the sand and rock in, then re-fill the tank with already mixed saltwater.

This might be a dumb question, but hey, I figured I might as well ask. :wavehand:

Thanks,

Chad

 

[Flame_Angel]

Fill it up and pray. Do it outside unless you like the possibility of wet floors.

 

[VGT]

You're worried about wasting 190G of tap water? That's nothing.

 

[dzfish17]

I filled my 600g tank and drained it 4 times before filling it with saltwater... had to cure a rockwall aquascape. It is a little nerve wracking the first time you fill a big tank.

 

[dmastracchio]

My leak test was with RO/DI. By using a lot of unions and ball valves in certain locations I am able to pull pieces of pipe off without having to worry to much about draining. I had 2 leaks on my 180. A bulkhead for the c2c overflow. Just by shutting off the return pump, allowed for me to drain the c2c overflow box and fix the bulkhead. The other was on near my return pump. Turned a ball valve before the pump and I am able to remove the pump with no problems.

 

[whipsaw]

I made my 500g, and I was really nervous that I didn't use thick enough glass or strong enough silicone. I built it inside the house though, and it won't fit through a door so I had to test it where it sits.

I hauled an industrial carpet cleaning rig capable of quickly sucking out a few hundred gallons of water down into my basement. Set it by the tank, ran a garden hose from the utility sink to the tank, waved a chicken bone cross at the tank, turned on the water full-blast, and waited.

once it was full I very carefully walked past it and turned the water off. I let it sit while sipping a cocktail designed to make the tank stronger, or me stronger, or something, and then drained the tank via the same garden hose back to the sink drain.

good times.

 

[gofor100]

I made my 500g, and I was really nervous that I didn't use thick enough glass or strong enough silicone. I built it inside the house though, and it won't fit through a door so I had to test it where it sits.

I hauled an industrial carpet cleaning rig capable of quickly sucking out a few hundred gallons of water down into my basement. Set it by the tank, ran a garden hose from the utility sink to the tank, waved a chicken bone cross at the tank, turned on the water full-blast, and waited.

once it was full I very carefully walked past it and turned the water off. I let it sit while sipping a cocktail designed to make the tank stronger, or me stronger, or something, and then drained the tank via the same garden hose back to the sink drain.

good times.

Hahaha... awesome AND hilarious.

Thanks for sharing.

-Chad

 

[gofor100]

My leak test was with RO/DI. By using a lot of unions and ball valves in certain locations I am able to pull pieces of pipe off without having to worry to much about draining. I had 2 leaks on my 180. A bulkhead for the c2c overflow. Just by shutting off the return pump, allowed for me to drain the c2c overflow box and fix the bulkhead. The other was on near my return pump. Turned a ball valve before the pump and I am able to remove the pump with no problems.

This is what I'm thinking of doing now... but I'll probably go through two phases (and let me know if this doesn't make sense):

> Phase 1: Fill the overflows and sump with RO/DI water and test the plumbing. If I find any leaks, then I'll repair, but at least I won't have to wait to fill the whole tank to test the plumbing.

> Phase 2: While I'm repairing any plumbing leaks, start filling the main tank with RO/DI water to leak-test the main tank. If all passes the test, I was thinking of then draining the tank (storing the RO/DI water in some trash bins temporarily) so that I can place the sand/rock in before re-filling it with the RO/DI (which will have been made into SW while in the storage/trash bins).

Does this sound about right?

-Chad

 

[gofor100]

You're worried about wasting 190G of tap water? That's nothing.

Hahaha... apparently you don't live in Southern California... you can be be-headed for such things...

-Chad

 

[slief]

When I first setup my tank many years back, I filled it with tap water. When I saw there were no leaks, I added dechlorinator then salt and called it day. At the time it was a fish only system so I wasnt worried about high quality water.

Since my tank was acrylic and my tank builder knew what they were doing, the least of my concerns in my case was the tank itself. I was more concerned about the plumbing and bulk heads. All of which could be addressed with water in the tank should there have been a leak which there were none that I can recall.

When I moved to a new house and moved the tank, I pretty much did the same thing with exception of using most of my old water which I transported along with the fish, rock and corals. I am pretty good at my plumbing these days so leaks are not much of a concern to me when I plumb my tanks. I also keep PVC plugs just in case I develop a leak in the plumbing. I can stuff a PVC plug into a bulkhead to stop water flow and fix plumbing issues down stream of that. I use that method when I have done plumbing mods to my system.

About 2 years ago, I swapped out my sumps as well as the rest of my plumbing including recirc pumps, return pumps etc. This was done with the tank full of 480G of water. I plugged up all the bulk heads in the tank from the inside (6 in total), kept the power heads running along with an airstone under one of the power heads and went to town! My aquarium buddy (LA Fish Guy Jim) thought I was nuts but I knew what I was doing and it went like clockwork without a single hitch or even a leak. It was very well planned out though. Even got it on video for an LA Fish Guys episode.

 

[gofor100]

When I first setup my tank many years back, I filled it with tap water. When I saw there were no leaks, I added dechlorinator then salt and called it day. At the time it was a fish only system so I wasnt worried about high quality water.

Since my tank was acrylic and my tank builder knew what they were doing, the least of my concerns in my case was the tank itself. I was more concerned about the plumbing and bulk heads. All of which could be addressed with water in the tank should there have been a leak which there were none that I can recall.

When I moved to a new house and moved the tank, I pretty much did the same thing with exception of using most of my old water which I transported along with the fish, rock and corals. I am pretty good at my plumbing these days so leaks are not much of a concern to me when I plumb my tanks. I also keep PVC plugs just in case I develop a leak in the plumbing. I can stuff a PVC plug into a bulkhead to stop water flow and fix plumbing issues down stream of that. I use that method when I have done plumbing mods to my system.

About 2 years ago, I swapped out my sumps as well as the rest of my plumbing including recirc pumps, return pumps etc. This was done with the tank full of 480G of water. I plugged up all the bulk heads in the tank from the inside (6 in total), kept the power heads running along with an airstone under one of the power heads and went to town! My aquarium buddy (LA Fish Guy Jim) thought I was nuts but I knew what I was doing and it went like clockwork without a single hitch or even a leak. It was very well planned out though. Even got it on video for an LA Fish Guys episode.

That's awesome...

Yeah, I'm pretty confident in the tank itself (I ordered from LeeMar and they kick out pretty good quality work), so I guess my "plumbing leak test" (where I only fill the overflows and sump and have the returns come back into the overflow instead of the tank) should work then, right?

Thanks,

Chad

 

[alton]

I have been leak testing mine for a year now, with no problems.

 

[slief]

That's awesome...

Yeah, I'm pretty confident in the tank itself (I ordered from LeeMar and they kick out pretty good quality work), so I guess my "plumbing leak test" (where I only fill the overflows and sump and have the returns come back into the overflow instead of the tank) should work then, right?

Thanks,

Chad

I don't see why not. That should work just fine but your returns entering directly into the overflow could cause an excessive amount of turbulance and splashing. If you can get around that, I think your idea is a great one.

 

[gofor100]

I don't see why not. That should work just fine but your returns entering directly into the overflow could cause an excessive amount of turbulance and splashing. If you can get around that, I think your idea is a great one.

Thanks... I guess worst case, I can always redirect the returns back into the tank if it becomes a problem during the leak test.

Thanks again,

Chad

 

[prop-frags]

I really appreciate your conservative intentions, but 190g of tap is probably about the same amount you'll use for 6-8 showers. You don't necessarily have to "waste" the tap after a test - put it into washing machine, or fill your bathtub, or water the neighbor's garden.

Having suffered through two silicone failures, I wouldn't hesitate at all to fill your tank with tap and be absolutely assured that there are no leaks. The headaches you'll have if your tank isn't leak-tight will pale in comparison to the 190g of tap water you're talking about now. In terms of how do you get the all of tap water out after the test(s), use a shop vac. In addition to testing your plumbing and the tank seals, you may also want to ensure the overflow boxes are strong and firmly attached before your final fill-up.