Learning/rebuilding from my epic fail

Killing me with the latest pics Matt lol, love the fish pics too :)

I need lots more mozzie chromis :hammer:
Here, Andrew.. more cropping and sharpening..

I have a rare fish question. The Blue Streak Cards you mentioned,are they aggressive with each other as my Pajama Cards are? Are they expensive ?
Hey Kev, the blue streaks are the least aggressive schooling fish I've ever had and they school better than most.
Once mature and breeding, they can get aggressive but they usually pair off and disappear into the rocks for a while. It probably helps to have a larger number of them. I've never kept pajamas but if the pajamas are like the bangaiis, which I have kept and find brutal, then thenblue streaks are in a whole other class of nice!
They should be less than $20 each the problem is not price, it's that stores don't stock them because they are so 'boring' and they think they'll be sitting on them forever.
I think they are very cool fish.
 
Here, Andrew.. more cropping and sharpening..


Hey Kev, the blue streaks are the least aggressive schooling fish I've ever had and they school better than most.
Once mature and breeding, they can get aggressive but they usually pair off and disappear into the rocks for a while. It probably helps to have a larger number of them. I've never kept pajamas but if the pajamas are like the bangaiis, which I have kept and find brutal, then thenblue streaks are in a whole other class of nice!
They should be less than $20 each the problem is not price, it's that stores don't stock them because they are so 'boring' and they think they'll be sitting on them forever.
I think they are very cool fish.

Wow, what software you are using for post processing. It is a stunning pic.:bounce3:
 
Hey Kev, the blue streaks are the least aggressive schooling fish I've ever had and they school better than most.
Once mature and breeding, they can get aggressive but they usually pair off and disappear into the rocks for a while. It probably helps to have a larger number of them. I've never kept pajamas but if the pajamas are like the bangaiis, which I have kept and find brutal, then thenblue streaks are in a whole other class of nice!
They should be less than $20 each the problem is not price, it's that stores don't stock them because they are so 'boring' and they think they'll be sitting on them forever.
I think they are very cool fish.

Thanks for the info.
I went to two LFSs and was told they have trouble getting them to live through quarantine. They confirmed that they were great schooling, passive fish but that they cannot keep them alive to sell them.

I am starting my fish list for when I finish the new tank in a couple weeks.
 
Thanks Mark!
Yes, I have been watching your LC experiments closely! :)
Ed got me scared again though..
I think if/when I were to use it, it would be after I have done whatever else I can do to pull p as low as possible..
Then I'd use LC just to tweak the last few points of reduction. That way as little product is used as possible..
Mark, your tank is SO READY for a few new pieces!!
Looks at your tank! It is calling out.. shouting at you to add new pieces!!! Wait maybe that's me shouting.. anyways.. yes, add some more!! :)

I apologize if my comments on Mark's thread were to scare you off. I think LC is fine to use. I just wanted to make sure people use it in a safe manner. That's why I linked the thread..........Gary M. has been using it for a long time and he's an Sps keeper I highly respect. I would focus on his comments as well a Tom's (tmz) in that thread.

It seems to be as simple as dosing LC into a 5 micron sock. I haven't read the whole thread, but the main points are that the precipitate doesn't go away. It can build up over time or be taken up by the animals/corals.

Here is an excerpt from Mike Paletta on another forum and why I just put two and two together that maybe if the precipitate is contained, it may stop the random unexplained acro problems when most corals are thriving---

"For example, one old European magazine I read through had a long discussion on the use of lanthanum chloride as a means of reducing phosphate levels. Having been a believer in the 0 phosphate rule up until recently, I had used this compound on several occasions with good results at reducing the phosphate levels in my tanks.

However, what I did not know and what was pointed out in this article is that lanthanum chloride, while being great at reducing phosphate, should only be used so that the resultant precipitate does not come into contact with sps corals.

Paraphrasing what the article said, if the precipitate is allowed to come into contact with the corals it may be taken up and mimics calcium in the coral’s structure. However, once it is taken up it will prevent or reduce further calcification and the coral will show reduced growth or even possible loss of tissue over time.

Now unless you had used lanthanum chloride, as I had, and let the precipitate flow all around the tank, and then had slow tissue necrosis from the base of some of your corals for seemingly no reason, which I also had, this article probably would not have meant much. But having the ability to go back and learn from an old article taught me that if I wanted to use this compound again, I needed to keep it in a reactor of some type away from my sps corals. Which has been written about but never explained. While this has been discussed in numerous ways over the years, until I read this old article, it never clicked for me as to why I was having this problem, since this occurred some time after I had used the lanthanum. Again this is another example of my learning from my own mistakes and then having it explained to my why it happened."
 
I apologize if my comments on Mark's thread were to scare you off. I think LC is fine to use. I just wanted to make sure people use it in a safe manner. That's why I linked the thread..........Gary M. has been using it for a long time and he's an Sps keeper I highly respect. I would focus on his comments as well a Tom's (tmz) in that thread.

It seems to be as simple as dosing LC into a 5 micron sock. I haven't read the whole thread, but the main points are that the precipitate doesn't go away. It can build up over time or be taken up by the animals/corals.

Here is an excerpt from Mike Paletta on another forum and why I just put two and two together that maybe if the precipitate is contained, it may stop the random unexplained acro problems when most corals are thriving---

"For example, one old European magazine I read through had a long discussion on the use of lanthanum chloride as a means of reducing phosphate levels. Having been a believer in the 0 phosphate rule up until recently, I had used this compound on several occasions with good results at reducing the phosphate levels in my tanks.

However, what I did not know and what was pointed out in this article is that lanthanum chloride, while being great at reducing phosphate, should only be used so that the resultant precipitate does not come into contact with sps corals.

Paraphrasing what the article said, if the precipitate is allowed to come into contact with the corals it may be taken up and mimics calcium in the coral's structure. However, once it is taken up it will prevent or reduce further calcification and the coral will show reduced growth or even possible loss of tissue over time.

Now unless you had used lanthanum chloride, as I had, and let the precipitate flow all around the tank, and then had slow tissue necrosis from the base of some of your corals for seemingly no reason, which I also had, this article probably would not have meant much. But having the ability to go back and learn from an old article taught me that if I wanted to use this compound again, I needed to keep it in a reactor of some type away from my sps corals. Which has been written about but never explained. While this has been discussed in numerous ways over the years, until I read this old article, it never clicked for me as to why I was having this problem, since this occurred some time after I had used the lanthanum. Again this is another example of my learning from my own mistakes and then having it explained to my why it happened."

Hey Ed, no apologies necessary! I am afraid of using anything I haven't tried yet.
Thanks for that clarification, though.
Those quotes are very informative.
If/when I try it, it will be added to a tank in the system which is simply a vessel in the system which can be drained for water changes and is just upstream from my protein skimmer and filter sock.
 
Wow, what software you are using for post processing. It is a stunning pic.:bounce3:

:) hey Bernie thanks!
My super duper 'software' is a great photo app called Snapseed. It is my go to phone editor.
Here's my basic 'workflow'
I have a canon eos 70d and for that shot I was shooting a coral which is 3 inches away from the front glass, so I was close to begin with.. I shoo in raw, however, I upload the photos directly to my iPhone from the camera so once uploaded, I lose a fair bit of the image quality. They do not have he same amount of data once uploaded to my phone.
I then edit them in Snapseed. I warm the photo up and sharpen it. Hen uploaded to Photobucket phone app.
Here's a shot of the whole frag:

And here is the original shot that I created the final edit from.. this shot was faked with the Canon 100mm macro L lens pressed up against the front glass..

The final shot was this shot, but cropped and sharpened again. Each cropping and sharpening creates a more and more 'animated' look- as Dan pointed out- they begin to look unreal.
Here's another top down example..
Original..

Cropped some..and rotated..

And a final cropping and resharpening.

This shot was taken about 8 inches away from the lens, so has lost a bit more image quality.
The one you commented on was was taken under blue t5 only and with all pumps off with and ISO of around 800.. shutterwas probably around 1/4 second..
So, a very decent original image was used and is required but the rest was done on my iPhone.
 
Hey Matt,
Those latest macro shoots makes me tingle all over.
Looks like your tank have fully amend and back to full health.

Well done.
 
One thing for sure, your iphone is smarter than my iphone.:beer:
Ha! My phone ain't that smart.. I think it's the app.
Hey Matt,
Those latest macro shoots makes me tingle all over.
Looks like your tank have fully amend and back to full health.

Well done.
Thanks! :) yes, the tank is on a very nice rebound right now. The Prodibio supplement are having a positive effect.
Those macros and the colors shown are just beautiful Matt, never tire of looking at your photos mate :)

Thanks, Andrew. Likewise!
Here's a secret, I may have added vitamins a couple times this week..

Couple random iPhone shots:


 
I love the latest fish pictures and the full tank shot Matt. At one point you considered removing your pyramid butterfly fish. You must be pleased that in the end you kept it. Is it completely reef safe?

I can see from the photos that similar to my tank you have asterina stars as well. I purchase a harlequin shrimp a few weeks ago but never saw it again after putting it in my tank. I have a silver belly wrasse, but it had disappeared suddenly before purchasing the shrimp. A few days after buying the shrimp, I discovered that my wrasse was in my weir. It lived there for more than three weeks. Anyway, there is no sign of the shrimp now. It is presumed dead or eaten by the wrasse. Asterina population is growing daily.
 
Hey Bulent, thanks for checking in.
I do like the pyramid. He is my 'show' fish, being the biggest in the tank.
I'd say he is 90% safe. He doesn't go after polyps but will go after mesenterial filaments and the slime that corals may produce when they are trying to feed or warring or encrusting.
My Bellus are the same way.
I have a dwarf golden angel who likes polyps. He doesn't do much damage but he will reduce the pe in many corals.
I have a HUGE infestation of astarina stars!
Now, just to clarify, in the bottom pic, the two grey starfish aren't astarinas, they are sand stars and spend 90% of their time buried in the sand. They are about 2.5 inches long. But I do also have a major infestation of astarinas that you probably noticed in the pic..
The green starfish with the light spots - on the rocks, is an astarina predator. I have 3 of them to try to combat the growing astarina population.
After going through several harlequin shrimp, I gave up on them. I had a beautiful pair for a while but they didn't last longer that 3 months. Pretty sure somebody was eating or harassing them.
The starfish I have are very effective consumers of the astarinas and quite hearty. I still go in periodicals and remove the larger astarinas using tweezers. Eventually, they should beat the little buggers.
I don't remember the name of them. My supplier calls them linkias but I'm not sure. I know Ed posted a pic last year sometime of his eating an astarina and he gave the scientific name.
Apparently they are fairly common. And pretty as well.
 
Thanks for your reply Matt.

Some of my Genicanthus angels also eat mucus produced by my Acroporids without harming them.

I know that the two grey starfishes are not asterinas :lol:, but thanks for mentioning it anyway.

The green starfish you referred to is Nardoa rosea. I have just found its picture in Julian Sprung's book. Thanks for letting me know about their specific predatory behaviour. I had no idea that these starfishes eat asterinas. I always thought that the only asterina starfish predator was Harlequin shrimp. I will try to source one for my tank asap. Asterinas in my tank do not harm any corals though, but I find them unsightly.
 
Thanks for your reply Matt.

Some of my Genicanthus angels also eat mucus produced by my Acroporids without harming them.

I know that the two grey starfishes are not asterinas :lol:, but thanks for mentioning it anyway.

The green starfish you referred to is Nardoa rosea. I have just found its picture in Julian Sprung's book. Thanks for letting me know about their specific predatory behaviour. I had no idea that these starfishes eat asterinas. I always thought that the only asterina starfish predator was Harlequin shrimp. I will try to source one for my tank asap. Asterinas in my tank do not harm any corals though, but I find them unsightly.

I was pretty sure you were aware of the difference but they do look like larger versions of astarina and maybe not everyone would tell the difference.
Yes! Nordoa Rosea that's it. I had one in a client's tank that had a small astarina infestation. It took the starfish about 8 months to clean out the tank.
My astarinas are not the coral eaters either but they do leave pale spots in the corraline algea.
 
Ha! My phone ain't that smart.. I think it's the app.

Thanks! :) yes, the tank is on a very nice rebound right now. The Prodibio supplement are having a positive effect.


Thanks, Andrew. Likewise!
Here's a secret, I may have added vitamins a couple times this week..

Couple random iPhone shots:



You know, the top pic first caught my eye. The has great pop for an FTS.

But the longer I looked at the second photo, I am more impressed. I was looking at your thread on the family computer with a 53" LED monitor. The second pic was up when a phone call came in from my son. It stayed up on screen for an hour during the conversation. Afterward, I realized that is an INCREDIBLE photo.
The color transition on the coral to the left of the starfish is fascinating, to say the least. The blue piece to the starfish right and the mauve/ blue/green piece on top are very cool too. The color and pattern detail on the big star is beautiful, and the fact that two sand sifters are posed there almost gives it an action feel to the photo.

Heck, even the bubbles have great color.

I would actually like to see some more pics up close of the left of star piece. Also, it appears that there may be two chalice behind the island that look interesting.

Great Pic!
 
Those last two pics made me smile Matt, everything is looking really beautiful and the colors on everything seem to be cleaning up big time. PE looks great but you probably have that all the time with growing acros lol.

I hope you keep dosing the vitamins for a while even if you don't think they're contributing much, anything with fluoro proteins should light up big time very rapidly, like over a full week the yellows proteins in the tank should noticeably saturate and sparkle much brighter to the eye, polyps on tri colors etc will contrast much more for the same reason.
Anyway that was one very definite visual indicator that stood out in my system in very short order so i thought i'd mention it to you since you will know what to look for ;)

Really, really pleased to see your reef putting a smile on your dial again buddy :wave:
 
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