Led driver questions...

[Bagabaga]

So I used my led unit even though it wasn't at full power to my eye. Now I've taken the unit apart and tested the leads of all the cables coming from the drivers, to the drivers, from the power supply and in between.

Results:
Left driver to led was at 76dc with 9v to dimmer and 120v in to the unit

Right driver to led was 79dc with 9v to dimmer and 120v in to the unit



Left driver seems weaker than the right and the light intensity is very obvious when either color led is plugged into the right then the left.

Another weird thing was bypassing the dimmer seemed to make the LEDs slightly brighter on the whites.

The drivers are 70-100w units with a 70w max output stated

25 LEDs on whites and 30 on blues

Can I turn up the output voltage?

Could the LEDs be losing intensity?

Is it wise to turn up the power?

If there's 55 LEDs and they run at 155w that's about 2.8 watts per led which would make sense but could I overdrive them?

Some of my corals seemed ok with the LEDs and my valida started to lose flesh where it was shaded and polyps never extended and it lost color. Not bleaching just getting bad.

Is there anything wrong with my unit?

How can I test how much current each led is receiving while plugged in?

I really appreciate all help!

 

[djbon]

Sounds like Chinese black box LED light. It was designed to not deliver full power so that the LED will last longer. You can't overdrive the unit without replacing the driver with a higher performance driver, capable to drive higher wattage (higher current) at much higher voltage to each array. You might need to reconsider of doing so, as most chinese black box do not have good heat dissipation.

 

[Bagabaga]

Yeah definitely a black box led I got in a trade. I thought it could support my sps. I wish I could afford a hydra or something nice. Just trying to work with what I have is all. The unit seems really dim to me. Even testing the leads for amount of voltage it all seems legit on that end but the LEDs seems to give off very little light. I am comparing this to previous experience of a Mars aqua fixture that nuked a clam in the bottom of a 65 tall.l and supported birds nest at mid way up the tank awesomely. May just want to buy another one of those... Great light for the price.

Or can I run 6, 10w LEDs on one 100w driver from a Chinese seller?

I'm not clear on how LEDs are wired whether in series or parallel but can one driver be used for more than one multichip?

I could get 3, 20000k and 3, 10000k and wire them to an aluminum heat sink bar and drive them with a single 100w driver with dimmer right?

 

[djbon]

Some CBB are quite well designed. I owned one before, and it does work quite well to be honest. SPS is growing and encrusting. The problem with them usually lies with light coverage issues, especially with 60 degree lenses. The blue channel is a bit dull on mine, probably due to 12RB vs 15B composition. The problem with yours might be on the LED beads being used. With Bridgelux beads should be fine, generic chinese LEDs might not be that good.

 

[Bagabaga]

It's very possible. Would replacing all the LEDs be cost effective? And which colors would be best?

 

[djbon]

It's very possible. Would replacing all the LEDs be cost effective? And which colors would be best?

You need to know exactly what is your existing driver capability (limiting current, max voltage) so that you can match with the LED. High quality LED might be a bit hotter than generic LED so the heatsink or padded aluminium plate might not be able to handle the heat.

It might not be so cost effective if you have to change the driver and the heatsink as well, so buying a new unit might be a better call.

 

[oreo57]

The drivers are constant current drivers running a series string of LED's
As such they will adjust the voltage until their mA "setpoint" is reached.

Nothing sounds too unusual considering 1)different driver tolerances 2)different LED output at a set mA.

It is probably possible to find highr mA output drivers but 1)would probably shorten diode lifespan 2)probably not very cost effective.

As to replacing the diodes w/ others..well you need to match the circuit board footprint (well the easiest way) and that would be the Edison or Bridgelux type..
Not sure you could get "better' but pretty sure you could get worse..

 

[Bagabaga]

Then buying a new unit it is!

It's just that this halide is too big for my tank. Heats up my apartment too much. Which costed with the air running to keep it cool cost me 80 bucks on summer tier rates.

I did like my Mars Aqua fixture. Just wish I could find someone local to trade or sell me one lol.

 

[djbon]

Or you can build your own if you like to DIY. Mine is very minimal, looks awful but at less than USD25 per pack i couldn't be happier

 

[Bagabaga]

What color chip did you use? How's the spread and growth?

 

[djbon]

What color chip did you use? How's the spread and growth?

4 x Cree XPE blue (driven at 1.2A)
2 x Cree XPE warm white (driven at 1.2A)
2 x Generic 3W UV (driven at 550ma)
2 x Generic 3W cyan (driven at 500ma)
2 x Generic 10W royal blue (driven at 880ma)
2 x Generic 10W 20K white (driven at 880ma)

Thinking of adding 3W lime green in my next project once I source out a bigger heatsink.

Growth is good, SPS encrusting quite well, plating montipora growing about 2mm per month. I never owned a branded lamp so I have no idea how's the growth looks like in a properly lighted system.

 

[Bagabaga]

any tank shots of it? I'm super interested in a 10w led system.

How many drivers do you use?

 

[djbon]

any tank shots of it? I'm super interested in a 10w led system.

How many drivers do you use?

All my lights and fans are running on 12Vdc. I use current limiting resistors for LEDs. The whole lighting system is powered by 12VDC 16A switched mode power supply.

 

[Bagabaga]

Should have asked earlier do you have a build thread?

 

[djbon]

Lighting?. I don't have one, but I shared my nitrate destroyer in here, under DIY column. Check it out if you are interested.

 

[djbon]

Here is the growth in 1 month under this led pack. I don't have any idea whether this growth is consider okay.

 

[Bagabaga]

I wish mine was growing. It seems to have lost more flesh after the halide went back over it but polyps are extending. I'll hope for a recovery of a couple branches and if it gets worse I'll try and frag it.

I'm going to go with a pre built black box after pricing peices of a kit was just as much money.

I wish I knew someone near me with a par meter they would let me borrow. For after I buy new LEDs. Maybe I'll sell my Mac to get a new unit. Who knows...

Thanks for your help and I hope my tank gets awesome soon.

 

[djbon]

Black box should work, the fine tuning part is where most people had problem. Took me 3 months to find the best settings for my tank. No wonder all branded LED boxes are so expensive, my head still spinning in getting the right spectrum, optimum PAR and heat management