LED Full Spectrum Controller based on Mega2560 board

[gendiaaa]

Most likely power supply problem, from computer's USB is not always working.
The one on Arduino board also is not designed to support TFT.
Would recommend to try good 1-2A 5V power supply.
I'm using LM2596 like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596-DC-D...115364?hash=item3f6d8113a4:g:iIMAAOSwqu9VHR9Z

thank you for that ... could you explain how this caliberation method for the dosing pumps working ?

 

[kapelan]

thank you for that ... could you explain how this caliberation method for the dosing pumps working ?

1. start the pump
2. Let it work some time (about a minute or two)
3. Stop the pump
4. Enter volume ml
5. Save
Device will rate the pump and store the result in milliliter per minute.

 

[gendiaaa]

https://ibb.co/ekYyYv

thank you again i have made my dosing pump but i have complain the pumps should be connected to normal close so if the arduino is off and dosing pumps are conected to power it will run at full power any soluation for that ?! suppose the stepdown for arduino power dies that mean dosing pumps will runs at full power

 

[gendiaaa]

this is how i made the incluser

 

[gendiaaa]

Sent from my GT-I9060I using Tapatalk

 

[kapelan]

https://ibb.co/ekYyYv

thank you again i have made my dosing pump but i have complain the pumps should be connected to normal close so if the arduino is off and dosing pumps are conected to power it will run at full power any soluation for that ?! suppose the stepdown for arduino power dies that mean dosing pumps will runs at full power

Nice device.
Two types of relay exists:
1. Normally closed
2. Normally opened
Probably you have normally opened.

 

[gendiaaa]

Nice device.
Two types of relay exists:
1. Normally closed
2. Normally opened
Probably you have normally opened.

this is the one i have so it has one common and one normal open and one normal close if i connect the pumps to the normal open it always runs and stoped once the order comes from arduino to start so i have to connect it to normal close .. i did conect it to normal close its stoped and runs only when it got the order to run but if i unpluged the control jack from my dosing system that mean i disconnect the arduino from it device the pumps start and runs !! that mean if for any reason the arduino power fails the pumps will run

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[kapelan]

... that mean if for any reason the arduino power fails the pumps will run ...

You need to find a relay that is normally disconnected.
I.e. if power off it will disconnect the line.

 

[rott]

just move the wire from the NC side and put it in the NO side that is the other screw and the problem is solved no power to pull it closed it will not work

 

[mannycalavera2]

Amazing, I upload the code just for test the controller and I can see the main screen, do you have to plan to add another language?

 

[oreo57]

44V at 350mA...
consider a 2-3V overhead for an LDD..
If you drive them harder you may "overshoot" a 48V power supply..

 

[kapelan]

...
Kapelan, any plans to add 12 bit PWM for the lighting channels? that would be the icing on the cake.

8 bit has gradation 255 steps. I do not believe human eye can notice a difference even in 5-10 steps.
I my opinion 12 bit is a speculation.
Test is very simple:
create a script that will increase level every second - it is impossible to see difference.

 

[theatrus]

10-12bit PWM is useful if you want to mimic human brightness perception - its not linear, so more range is important.

What matters more for flick-free lighting is the actual PWM frequency. The 12bit chips generally are limited to 1.5kHz which causes havoc with cameras - 30kHz and up is preferred.

 

[kapelan]

I've played with frequency.
It is possible to change it, but drivers become very noisy.
Visually no difference.

 

[gendiaaa]

acually if you could run the hood fan in pwm control based on hood temperature it will very nice also

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[kapelan]

acually if you could run the hood fan in pwm control based on hood temperature it will very nice also

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that's easy to do, if you wish:
- put a temperature sensor on the hood or heatsink
- configure alarm for this sensor
- connect a fan to configured outlet.
It's the same way as for water temperature

 

[gendiaaa]

that's easy to do, if you wish:
- put a temperature sensor on the hood or heatsink
- configure alarm for this sensor
- connect a fan to configured outlet.
It's the same way as for water temperature

is that will be pwm signal output so i can use npn transistor to run the fan on speed control or it will be on/off relay switch ?

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[kapelan]

is that will be pwm signal output so i can use npn transistor to run the fan on speed control or it will be on/off relay switch ?

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that's existing design. no PWM control for the fan. ON/OFF function

 

[perkint]

8 bit has gradation 255 steps. I do not believe human eye can notice a difference even in 5-10 steps.
I my opinion 12 bit is a speculation.
Test is very simple:
create a script that will increase level every second - it is impossible to see difference.

I disagree. It is obviously less obvious as the levels increase (difference between 254 and 255 is invisible) but the difference between low values is quite noticeable made even more so if you run lots of LEDs. On my 3' tank i have quite a few LEDs that get used for evening light and as it fades off, even on 12bit dimming the steps are very visible. I hate to think what it would be like with 8bit dimming!

The effect would be less noticeable with less LEDs (obviously) but it still surprised me how visible it is on mine.

Tim

 

[oreo57]

http://www.pathwaylighting.com/prod...Linear+vs+Logarithmic+Dimming+White+Paper.pdf

A logarithmic dimming characteristic is recommended.

For LED lighting, logarithmic dimming is already common to avoid visible dimming steps in the region of low luminance levels.
Drivers for effect-lighting, architainment, sound and stage applications usually do not use logarithmic but linear dimming, often only with low dimming step resolution (e.g. DMX with 8 Bit = 255 steps).
As OLEDs cause less glaring than LEDs, the negative effect of linear dimming may be even more visible as in LED applications.
Logarithmic dimming characteristic with 8 Bit resolution
Figure 8: Logarithmic dimming characteristic with 8 Bit resolution
Therefore, a logarithmic dimming characteristic (figure 8) is generally recommended for OLED applications. If this is ensured, also the standard dimming resolution of 8 Bit (255 steps) will be enough for most applications.
If drivers with linear dimming are used anyway, at least a sufficiently high resolution should be ensured (e.g. 10 or 12 Bit).

http://www.osram-oled.com/oled/en/n...-of-oleds/tab-3-dimming-p4.jsp?isInclude=true

It is not always the # of steps but how you use them...