LED, T5, or combo

going to go with (6) 60"
Channel 6063-T52 Aluminum, Extruded
Dimensions:
A: 2"
B: 1/2"
C: 1/8"
Material: Aluminum
Grade: 6063
Shape: Channel
https://www.speedymetals.com/p-2534-12-x-2-x-18-channel-6063-t52-aluminum-extruded.aspx

additionally I've been looking at drivers and boards for arduino.

I believe i'm quoting kcress

PWM with resistor limiting:
1) Are generally the least efficient. 40%~98%
2) Can be the most efficient if the load voltage very closely matches the source voltage as then there would be little to no voltage to 'drop'.

Switched inductor with a diode
1) Have good efficiency. 75%~86%
2) Fairly simple.

Switched inductor with synchronously controlled FETs.

1) Most complex and most expensive.
2) Highest general efficiency. 89%~95%

So if i'm running 8 XM-L's on Mean Well ELN-60-27P @ 2A am I very closely matching the source voltage? I'm sorta confused by this.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/default.htm
 
Channel sounds good to me! Should I plan on something like 4 x 120mm fans pulling up through the top of the hood? The old rendering below shows an enclosed hood, but at 24" off the water this will be suspended, with enought trim to hide the channel. I'll have to update this.

I'd think carefully about the fan placement/direction. With the fixture 24" up this isn't as critical but I'd want to ensure I was blowing cool dry room air across the LEDs instead of sucking slightly warmer, slightly more humid "tank air" across them. Hopefully this makes sense.

i'm curious how much heat this is going to give off.

What's the room air temp normally going to be like? Depending on that, the LEDs may be the lowest contributor of heat to the room. On my system, the pumps are the biggest sources of heat, followed by the tank water itself, then the LEDs.

going to go with (6) 60"
Channel 6063-T52 Aluminum, Extruded

Looks good. That's pretty much twice the "good" surface area as what most people get at the hardware store.

additionally I've been looking at drivers and boards for arduino.

A subject very dear to me. :D Are you thinking about DIY drivers and a DIY controller, or just a DIY controller and ELN drivers?


I believe i'm quoting kcress

PWM with resistor limiting:
1) Are generally the least efficient. 40%~98%
2) Can be the most efficient if the load voltage very closely matches the source voltage as then there would be little to no voltage to 'drop'.

Switched inductor with a diode
1) Have good efficiency. 75%~86%
2) Fairly simple.

Switched inductor with synchronously controlled FETs.

1) Most complex and most expensive.
2) Highest general efficiency. 89%~95%

If you're using ELNs, you can ignore most of that, since it's comparing different driver topologies as far as potential efficiency. With the ELNs, if you want to maximize efficiency, the best way to do that is basically to run them within an inch of their specs. :D i.e. many people get an ELN 60-48 and then turn it down to 700mA and only load it to ~40v. That's significantly less efficient than running an ELN 60-48 at 1.3A and 48v.

So if i'm running 8 XM-L's on Mean Well ELN-60-27P @ 2A am I very closely matching the source voltage? I'm sorta confused by this.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/default.htm

The 60-27 has a nominal 2.3A and 27v. 8 XM-L will put you right on the dot for voltage (you may even need to fiddle with the voltage limit trimpot to keep it in constant current mode but that's not a big deal). Running at 2A on a 2.3A driver is "close enough" from an efficiency standpoint. In general I would consider this a better-than-average design, from an efficiency standpoint.
 
I'd think carefully about the fan placement/direction. With the fixture 24" up this isn't as critical but I'd want to ensure I was blowing cool dry room air across the LEDs instead of sucking slightly warmer, slightly more humid "tank air" across them. Hopefully this makes sense.

This makes sense. just trying to figure out how I would accomplish this. either from front or from above, or possibly from another room/directly from a/c duct, with something like a squirl fan. perhaps this would help equalize some of the temp/humidity issues as well, I could even reverse it in the winter

What's the room air temp normally going to be like? Depending on that, the LEDs may be the lowest contributor of heat to the room. On my system, the pumps are the biggest sources of heat, followed by the tank water itself, then the LEDs.

temp: 70 winter months, 74 summer months - although it peaked to 78 with the halides / and evening sun on the room my 100g is in this past year (talking 100-115 days). The new tank will be a different room (no direct sun) and i'm thinking about 6500btu .293 = 1900w (ughh) if I have issues keeping it down. skimmer: ASMG4x - sedra 9000, eheim 1262 on current tank, with mp40w. I'm planning on dart return, or CL on this tank, or 2 eheim 1262 and closed loop coming on every 2-4 hours for 15 minutes (had this scheduled on another tank and liked it/although worry about effect on i/o of pump). I also have two iwaki 55's I could mix in.
This will also be my office, so my box and 28" monitor will be in there (the mac tower does put off noticeable heat).

A subject very dear to me. Are you thinking about DIY drivers and a DIY controller, or just a DIY controller and ELN drivers?

I've only had a chance to skim the surface here, but I'm very interested in DIY drivers and DIY controller. Will have to do some (serious) reading this weekend.
 
One comment I would make about DIY drivers and controllers is that you have to want DIY. People who approach it from the perspective of "hey, I can do this to save money (or insert any other justification)" are often overwhelmed. I don't think DIY'ing drivers or controllers is harder than DIY'ing an entire LED rig from scratch but you need a DIY mindset to be successful.

As far as heat, you're talking about roughly 200w of LEDs. Compare that to the power draw of equipment you're familiar with from a thermal perspective and you should get a rough idea of how much heat they'll contribute to the room.

I'm hoping that some of the other LED regulars will chime in on this thread, it's somewhat of a two person conversation right now and there's always a risk that we're missing something obvious.
 
One comment I would make about DIY drivers and controllers is that you have to want DIY. People who approach it from the perspective of "hey, I can do this to save money (or insert any other justification)" are often overwhelmed. I don't think DIY'ing drivers or controllers is harder than DIY'ing an entire LED rig from scratch but you need a DIY mindset to be successful.

As far as heat, you're talking about roughly 200w of LEDs. Compare that to the power draw of equipment you're familiar with from a thermal perspective and you should get a rough idea of how much heat they'll contribute to the room.

I'm hoping that some of the other LED regulars will chime in on this thread, it's somewhat of a two person conversation right now and there's always a risk that we're missing something obvious.
 
I haven't actually built my LED rig yet, but I've done lots of research. I was very afraid of getting a cool white washed out look that some people have said they get when using 1 cool white to 2 royal blue. I decided on going with 54 LEDs. 18 royal blue XP-G (I got them as a gift a few months ago) and 18 XT-E royal blue drive around 800mA. I'm still not 100% sure on which whites I want to use, but I have temporarily decided on 5 neutral white, 4 warm white, and 9 cool white. The cool whites will be on one string, and the warm and neutral whites will be together on a string. The whites will be driven about 1300mA I think.

As for the DIY part...
I don't have a controller for the tank, but wanted to have the sunrise and sunset effect. Building a Typhon has been fun and frustrating at the same time. DWZM has been awesome helping me (thanks again). I finally got most of the things soldered onto the PCB last night. I'm a computer nerd by trade, but have little experience with circuit boards. Building the controller has been a lot of fun. I will be building a DIY driver to power 3 strings of 12 blue LEDs next week.

I would not suggest DIYing the drivers and/or controller to save money. By the time you research, order, wait, solder, remember you forgot to order the LCD, order again, cross your fingers, and hope it works, you could have just bought a nice commercial controller and drivers. I like building stuff (computers, woodworking, etc) so DIYing is something that I knew I would enjoy. If you're not into doing things yourself, then don't bother with DIY drivers or controllers. If you work on your own car, fix most things around the house when it breaks, and that kind of stuff, DIY may be for you.
 
Since we're waxing philosophical in this thread, my main motivation for DIY (besides the pure enjoyment) is that I end up with something that is EXACTLY what I want. Or at least it's EXACTLY what I decided I would build given my own priorities. When you buy something off the shelf, you're getting someone else's ideas, which might be influenced by cost, complexity, perception of the market, ease of support, or other factors that you don't care about. Cost isn't part of the motivation for me, but I do think that if you're DIY-driven, experienced with hobby electronics, a careful shopper, and cost-conscious (and don't bill yourself for your own time) you can come out ahead from a cost perspective.
 
Cost isn't part of the motivation for me, but I do think that if you're DIY-driven, experienced with hobby electronics, a careful shopper, and cost-conscious (and don't bill yourself for your own time) you can come out ahead from a cost perspective.

I definitely agree with this. If I wasn't messing around with DIY drivers and controllers, I would be sitting on the couch, watching TV or playing video games. I may as well make something useful.
 
One comment I would make about DIY drivers and controllers is that you have to want DIY. People who approach it from the perspective of "hey, I can do this to save money (or insert any other justification)" are often overwhelmed.

I appreciate the warning, I'm DIY'er at heart, absolutely driven to learn and try new things - i feel this helps keep me sharp; the will to power ;)

I'm a tad apprehensive to fully commit as it's been awhile since high school electronics, and I've not read enough about the diy drivers or controllers, but I'm in the same boat as NirvanaFan,

I don't have a controller for the tank, but wanted to have the sunrise and sunset effect.
... i also build computers and a bit of programming, as a web designer.

Is there capability of a storm simulation as well? lunar cycle? -- like I said lots to read this weekend!

I'm hoping to have the new tank setup and running by June, so I've got some time. I do have to build my stand, drill tanks, sump, and build overflow, diy some towers/bonsai structures rod/thorite/epoxy, recirc/gate my skimmer, build an ato.. etc. so I'll just tag this on the list so I can have everything I want! I was actually going to build my tank too, but wanted longer glass than I had ordered... ramble. I like DIY, and I have to admit some of it is budget driven which is part of the challenge, either way I won't compromise in creating an ideal setup for my tank inhabitants.

I have temporarily decided on 5 neutral white, 4 warm white, and 9 cool white.

I haven't decided on these either. I think I'm pretty close on my last layout, and will keep that as the minimum, which may change with more driver research? I do want to add exotics - thinking I'll order a handful and do some testing with the base plan.

I definitely agree with this. If I wasn't messing around with DIY drivers and controllers, I would be sitting on the couch, watching TV or playing video games. I may as well make something useful.

I better have time for video games! ... the problem will be that my office desk will face the tank, like it is now, I sit down for work and wake up in the chair after staring and or tinkering with the tank.
 
Is there capability of a storm simulation as well? lunar cycle? -- like I said lots to read this weekend!

With a DIY controller? Sky is the limit. The default firmware for the Typhon simply fades lights on and off at whatever times you specify, it's targeted at sunrise/sunset simulation. Lunar cycles and storm simulation would be relatively easy extensions and would require a few lines of code. Anyone with a programming background should be able to do stuff like that easily, especially with the support of the community.

I'm hoping to have the new tank setup and running by June, so I've got some time. I do have to build my stand, drill tanks, sump, and build overflow, diy some towers/bonsai structures rod/thorite/epoxy, recirc/gate my skimmer, build an ato.. etc. so I'll just tag this on the list so I can have everything I want! I was actually going to build my tank too, but wanted longer glass than I had ordered... ramble. I like DIY, and I have to admit some of it is budget driven which is part of the challenge, either way I won't compromise in creating an ideal setup for my tank inhabitants.

If you haven't seen it yet, here is my build thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1749114

Pointing it out because I think we have a similar approach to DIY in general.
 
With a DIY controller? Sky is the limit. If you haven't seen it yet, here is my build thread..

very impressive, you have me wanting to cancel my order and build a ply tank! diggin' the new fts photos, i'd love to see some video!

I haven't had enough time to look into driver but am thinking diy controller.

speaking of which, i got a tad carried away this weekend taking and filming some baseline photos to compare the 250w hqi 20k's to the soon to be LED setup. Please forgive the debris, I did a serious tank cleaning, and my blenny is also digging to china.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/38312359?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/38312359">100g Reef</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6424080">Blake Vosburgh</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

http://vimeo.com/38312359

filmed with canon t2i/tamron 70-300

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/zeRNxMlHxqM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeRNxMlHxqM

filmed with iphone4s and macro lens
 
Tank looks great!

Be ready to become photography-challenged. Something about the spectral quality of LEDs makes it really hard to get accurate color in photography.

Is that a single BTA the clowns are in or some other species? It's gigantic! I need an anemone in my system but I'm trying to keep myself from BTAs since they've always been highly motile in other systems I've had them in.
 
Thank you!

They're Sherman Rose BTA's, and there are actually 5 of them on that pillar. I've had them maybe 6-8 months (started with 2) and they've kept to that rock pillar the entire time. These are the first nems I've had zero trouble with so can understand the apprehension. All the others (gbta/sebae) have been online mailed orders and didn't stay still. I got these from a local reefer.

Having watched this months TOTM it kind of hit me harder that I'm going to have to pick up my game to switch to an sps dominant tank, at least in terms of dosing, media, and checking levels more consistently. I will be keeping most of what's in my tank now, but will be getting rid of the palys and keeping softies to their own rocks to help deter spread, the xenia might to go the fuge too.

LED photography has been one of the biggest challenges researching and trying to find what I really want - based on color/ratios and example photos.

I'll be taking photos and listing camera settings/lens/iso/fstop in hopes of fair comparison. although I probably wont' be sending out my camera for others to compare to :p

going to go pickup lumber tonight.

here is my plan. Will do skin on top of this.

32-36" in height; haven't decided - although at 32" it's right at the armpit - perfect maintenance height.

planning on 2 x 55g sumps or 48x18x18 and 60x18x20 - although I don't know how I would fit these under the stand since they're the same width as the tank. The wide middle span is only 36" i'll have to do some cardboard try outs tonight.

200g_stand.jpg
 
Bought some XM-L's and XT-E's to test out on my 100g before I make the switch.

I think I'll be adding another 4 XM-L to this setup, today is day one, so will have to give it some time and play with the typhon.

little comparison video.
xm-l and xt-e are at 55% 2A and 900ma respectively.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/F6nlzxIOWDg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I must note that the settings were the same for the video on the Halide and LED comparison above. namely: iso800, f, and lens. i honestly can't remember for the t5, but the comparison was interesting to do

I do think i'd like to alleviate some of the intense shimmer that shows white/blue difference (better blending). I'm assuming this can be accomplished with a higher number of leds or supplement of t5.

I'm thinking of adding XM-Ls without optics or wider optics inbetween those I have now.

The setup is on 60" c channel, 8 XM-L 60 degree optics, and 7 XT-E on 60" c channel on either side of the center white (14 total XT-E).

this was meant to be an experiment before I go to the full setup.
 
Well finally finished this up. Still need to clean up drivers/wires, add a splash guard and figure out a way to mount the canopy. Led's are at the very top of the canopy right now, project at about 13" from top of water.

All LEDs on, (NW XML, WW CW XTE, RB XTE, DR & CYAN)
led_all.jpg

All but RB (there are a couple RB in the ww/cw series
leds_no_blue.jpg

DR & Cyan
led_red-cyan.jpg

RB
led_blue.jpg
 
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