LEDBrick Project - DIY pendant w/ pucks
- Thread starter theatrus
- Start date
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Let me know when you're looking for beta testers for the strips
Soon!
What color layout would you be interested in?
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
I can do a RB/RB/RB + B/CW daylight 90CRI/B (or 80 CRI WW instead) version for this, which is mostly power supplement with a bit of extra spectrum. I can also sub a B for a RB. Preference?
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theatrus
100-mile-commuter
:bounce2: I made a ninja star
Ok its a crappy ninja star
Whats this? Remember my round heatsink? The biggest issue was airflow through the heatsink being entirely blocked by the surface area of the PCB.
So I made some tweaks. Lots of cutouts, but kept all the mounting holes so far. Connector is a bit further into the board. Aligned the two mounting holes which were off by 0.2mm (heh).
On this board:
4x Luxeon C, moved closer to the center
3x Luxeon C, 1x SemiLEDs 3535 (for violets)
Everything else is the same.
Why C and not Z? Experimenting. On the 8-up I can easily fit the C, whereas the C would get a bit goofy on the denser 16-up.
Ok its a crappy ninja star
Whats this? Remember my round heatsink? The biggest issue was airflow through the heatsink being entirely blocked by the surface area of the PCB.
So I made some tweaks. Lots of cutouts, but kept all the mounting holes so far. Connector is a bit further into the board. Aligned the two mounting holes which were off by 0.2mm (heh).
On this board:
4x Luxeon C, moved closer to the center
3x Luxeon C, 1x SemiLEDs 3535 (for violets)
Everything else is the same.
Why C and not Z? Experimenting. On the 8-up I can easily fit the C, whereas the C would get a bit goofy on the denser 16-up.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
No exact color lineup planned yet. I do have a smorgasboard of LEDs on hand now, including the 5700k 90CRI white and mints, to experiment with looks and PAR. I made some further tweaks, and two of the LEDs (one on each channel) can be subbed out for a 3535 size LED, mainly to accommodate the SemiLEDs "UV". Its dual footprint, so that means 6-8 Luxeon C and 0-2 SemiLED violets.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Digikey also has a couple hundred in stock.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
It's a spam bot
. They love pulling fragments of old posts to sound legit and sometimes add 0 pixel images which I guess would later turn into ads.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Interesting. Too bad the RC forums don't allow anyone to edit posts after like 15 minutesIt's a spam bot
Well, unless they just change a file name and are pointing to it now. There is that. :/
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Interesting. Too bad the RC forums don't allow anyone to edit posts after like 15 minutes
Yeah, this one failed to embed any images
fefegarcia1
Member
Populated board. Need a coin for scale
Image: http://theatr.us/images/blueacro/acroiq/build1/b1-1.jpg
Regulates well. I've built one sans MCU and one with. Basic firmware to control PWM from the MCU works well (basically the Microchip Code Composer click-generated code), going to add I2C functionality.
Hi!
Can you tell me please what are the changes to make this driver work at 700 mA since the default BOM list is for 1000 mA?
Best regards.
Fernando Garcia
fefegarcia1
Member
Hi!
Thanks for reply.
Another question, there an error on silk screen in your PCB? Because it say "Max. 28V" but the specifications say 36V.
I know the IC can work at 36V, maybe there a limitation due the heat dissipation.
Best regards.
Fernando Garcia
Thanks for reply.
Another question, there an error on silk screen in your PCB? Because it say "Max. 28V" but the specifications say 36V.
I know the IC can work at 36V, maybe there a limitation due the heat dissipation.
Best regards.
Fernando Garcia
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Correct, its a gaffe on the silkscreen layer. Oops.
Also, the silkscreen has A/C labels reversed for each output. I patch that one up with a sticker.
The actual voltage doesn't matter a lot for power, as long as the In/Out ratio for each LED string isn't extreme. I.e. you'll exceed the thermals if you run one 3V LED on a 36V input voltage. I suggest keeping it matched closely, up to about a 12V differential.
Also, the silkscreen has A/C labels reversed for each output. I patch that one up with a sticker.
The actual voltage doesn't matter a lot for power, as long as the In/Out ratio for each LED string isn't extreme. I.e. you'll exceed the thermals if you run one 3V LED on a 36V input voltage. I suggest keeping it matched closely, up to about a 12V differential.
fefegarcia1
Member
You are talking that even using a 3V LED with 12V power supply the LED won't burn due the ratio between voltage and current so, 9V will be dissipated?
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
The driver regulates current, so it will drive 700/1000ma through the LED by adjusting voltage as needed.
The driver doesn't "burn" 9V at 1A (9W), like a linear regulator would. At these ratios it's around 92% efficient, so it's 0.7W lost in the driver (split between the inductor, sense resistor, and actual IC)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The driver doesn't "burn" 9V at 1A (9W), like a linear regulator would. At these ratios it's around 92% efficient, so it's 0.7W lost in the driver (split between the inductor, sense resistor, and actual IC)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
