LEDBrick Project - DIY pendant w/ pucks

For the small fan and heatsink, the 48W is simply too much power. You'll need to use something with more energy movement - CPU coolers with heat pipes work pretty well, as do larger slabs of aluminum with 80mm fans.

The small round heatsink might work with a lot more forced airflow - but the little quiet 40mm is not going to cut it.

That's what I was afraid of I want to use the 48 watt the tank is a 36 cube 28 deep so I want more power to drive to the bottom
 
For the small fan and heatsink, the 48W is simply too much power. You'll need to use something with more energy movement - CPU coolers with heat pipes work pretty well, as do larger slabs of aluminum with 80mm fans.

The small round heatsink might work with a lot more forced airflow - but the little quiet 40mm is not going to cut it.


4 AcroIQ Micro LED Driver - 48V - Adjustable 400-1000mA
6 Heatsink Compound Single-Use Pack (1g)
8 sets Screw Kit: Stainless #4-40 1/4" with plastic washers
6 YesHeatsink 4.6 inch x 4 inch x 1.7 inch
5 DiffuserAcroStar Mega4Z 20k Blue (48W)
2 48 volt power supplies
6 FAN AXIAL 80X25MM 24VDC WIRE fans
And one lighting control test version or production when it's available

Am I missing anything
 
Hey Theatrus-

Check out my 5 Channel LM3414HV driver. The board measures 1.5" by 2". Those WSON chips are a pita to place, but I've managed to build out 4 working examples so far. They're capable of of driving from 250ma to 1000ma into a 30V load with a 48V supply.


tmp_9087-IMG_20160901_1707527551873980264_zpswss7hrnh.jpg
 
Very nice! What value pot and series resistor did you end up with? How much drift to you see over temperature? Trim pots aren't the stablest thing in the world. I assume you haven't tried a Vf over 30V, since it should be capable of driving higher :)

And another hand shot:

hand.jpg


You can tell the mounting holes and connectors occupy a bunch of space on mine.

Also, reduce the aperture of the center pad on the stencil, depending on circumstances its very easy to bridge the center pad to a pin with too much solder.
 
Theatrus-

I'm using the default values from the spec sheet for 1,000ma operation.
Rfs = 40.2K ohms
CIn = 2.2uf
CVcc= 1uf
RIadj= 3.24K with a 10K pot wired in series.
Inductor= 47uH

I designed this board for use by a friend of mine. He specified soldered wire connections, that's why there are no connector footprints. I haven't had time to do any tests to check for temperature drift yet. If time permits, I'll clamp one of these down to a heat sink and see what happens with the current output after pushing 1 amp all day. Should be interesting...
 
Ok, so same relative resistance. I used a 5k pot to get max resolution but no harm in a 10k.

Mine drifts by about 3% when it warms up, which is about the temperature coefficient of the pot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did a little project for R&D and lighting my 20G garage .. quarantine and sometimes R&D tank.

I got a 30" length of the 1" extrusion from HeatsinkUSA, and mounted the driver and 4 AcroStrips to it (I only actually installed 2 of them - I can't find my leftover 48V supply so I can run 4 in series)

hs1.jpg


I printed two little mounting legs for it - I recently ate my 3d printer's bed surface so I printed ABS on blue tape which had some issues. Not a very clean print but it works.

hs2.jpg


And on the tank, running at minimum power:

hs3.jpg
 
Looking good Theatrus -- I like the little legs too!

Do you happen to run them with optics or do you run your LED's generally without them?
 
Looking good Theatrus -- I like the little legs too!

Do you happen to run them with optics or do you run your LED's generally without them?



I really don't like lenses. I do like reflectors if I need to increase the mounting height - I'm going to experiment if this would fit into an IceCap SLR T5 reflector to catch edge light, or just add two side shrouds to the heatsink.
 
I really don't like lenses. I do like reflectors if I need to increase the mounting height - I'm going to experiment if this would fit into an IceCap SLR T5 reflector to catch edge light, or just add two side shrouds to the heatsink.

The two side shrouds sound like a great idea. If you find too much light going back onto the LED / Heatsink you could cut a thin strip to put on the heatsink and mount the LED's directly to that strip -- Probably won't be an issue though.

I'm still really liking the HEI optics from Radion. It's basically a Mini kessil dome, if/when something like that becomes available I'm all over it. Otherwise I'm going to buy EcoTech for an HEI G4 optic, cut 'em out with a dremel, and place them over the 80* TIR optics.

if only i could pry off those worthless Cool White LED's on my Radion and replace 'em with Warm Whites... Then we'd be in business.
 
if only i could pry off those worthless Cool White LED's on my Radion and replace 'em with Warm Whites... Then we'd be in business.

Nothing a hot air gun and a little time wouldn't fix ;)

(Be careful with the painting hot air guns, too much heat and the silicone domes on the LEDs don't like it)
 
Nothing a hot air gun and a little time wouldn't fix ;)

(Be careful with the painting hot air guns, too much heat and the silicone domes on the LEDs don't like it)

Psh, I didn't know what you were talking about when you said "You'll need a driver", I'm not ready for Radion Surgery!! :worried2:
 
I really don't like lenses. I do like reflectors if I need to increase the mounting height - I'm going to experiment if this would fit into an IceCap SLR T5 reflector to catch edge light, or just add two side shrouds to the heatsink.
Just an FYI on lenses..Question was why no 90 degree TIR offered from Carclo
The simple answer to your question is that above 45-50 degrees the efficiency of TIR optics drops off which is why we offer a range of 20mm reflectors to fill in the gap:

http://www.carclo-optics.com/optics-for-leds/reflector/diameter-20.0mm/

Beyond ~90 degrees bubble optics are more efficient than reflectors so our range switches to these:

http://www.carclo-optics.com/optics-for-leds/bubble/

I hope this helps.

Best regards
Bernie

Bernie Daniels "¢ OEM Sales Manager

t: +44 (0)1753 575011
m: +44 (0)7976 268874
e: Bernard.daniels@carclo-optics.com
 
I have two of his 16up running on my tank, they look awsome and the corals are liking them too,

Are you doing any sort of control / dimming? I'm planning on using 4 of the AcroStar Mega4Z 20k Pro Blue's with my upgrade. I am currently using a pair of Borealis Luxeon Z Arrays from Rapid which I really like. However, he isn't selling them anymore so I came across these to try. Both use Luxeon which I really like and have great success with. Borealis is heavy on the lime whereas the AcroStars are not and have more blue.

The good news is that I'll be able to control them all via my ReefAngle which is my main requirement. Get to fine tune color spectrum and intensity while also adding in an acclamation setting :)
 
Are you doing any sort of control / dimming? I'm planning on using 4 of the AcroStar Mega4Z 20k Pro Blue's with my upgrade. I am currently using a pair of Borealis Luxeon Z Arrays from Rapid which I really like. However, he isn't selling them anymore so I came across these to try. Both use Luxeon which I really like and have great success with. Borealis is heavy on the lime whereas the AcroStars are not and have more blue.



The good news is that I'll be able to control them all via my ReefAngle which is my main requirement. Get to fine tune color spectrum and intensity while also adding in an acclamation setting :)



I'm more than happy to swap in Lime LEDs. I can also do Mint on an 8-up (Luxeon C). The lime/mints are a bit more expensive so there is a slight cost increase.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top