LEDBrick Project - DIY pendant w/ pucks

that is exactly why i asked, somone gave me a fixture that the drivers failed on (the dont like to go swiming) so i took all the LEDs off of it,

Where they the "domed" units (large bulky things with gull wing leads) or the silicone topped type?

The domed units are what I would expect for failing, marginal, or low bin chips coming off any fab line (even possibly Bridgelux). They get bought on a secondary market, retested under less strict criteria ("does it light up?"), and wire-bonded into a generic adaptable case. I'm not sure what you're getting, and there is probably a lot of variance.

The silicone topped units may be straight from a mainline manufacturer, though I'm sure packaging houses that specialize in second runs or non-premium stock have started encapsulating that way too (especially if they're trying to play in the knock-off market and make it look like a Cree).

I'm not aware of LED dies being marked in any particular way with manufacturer marks (like you find in ICs), but I'll do some research with a few contacts I have to see if there are any tell-tale signs. I also don't have the needed microscope power to resolve the details needed here :).

Unless you control your supply lines in China very very carefully, its easy to get substandard, second run, or plain fake parts which looks just like the originals. Its happened to a past company I worked for with electrolytic caps, and it was even a knock-off of a reasonable Chinese brand (Samxon) that ended up in products. The distributor didn't cross their Ts and accepted parts that weren't the real deal, and passed them on, which then failed in four-corners burn in testing at a high rate, meaning a few thousand units needed manual rework. Its all about establishing trust, and eBay vendors aren't high on my list of people I can trust implicitly :).
 
And a quick tease on the 16-up four channel layout tests:

(Excuse the iPhone picture, its nowhere as good as my DSLR even when the LEDs are at the "barely on" 5mA mark for pictures)

teaser-4z.jpg


Layout:

Ch1: RB RB 420nm RB RB
Ch2: NW WW NW WW
Ch3: B 405nm B B
Ch4: Cyan RB Cyan

I opted for another Cyan instead of RB to fill the gap on the Luxeon WW/NW charts at ~ 500nm. There is still a lower output in the 520-570nm range that could be filled with a Lime, but so far I'm very happy with the color balance here for a coral tank. Needs a bit more testing, and I'm also running very low on my Luxeon UV LEDs stock so more are on order.
 
Some PAR numbers from the above 16-up configuration with two violets:

(Using on axis 12 inch)

190 Naked/Bare LEDs
400 with Diffuser + Reflector
750 with Reflector

And I did some testing with the older SQ-120 PAR meter (which is what most people would be using), which reads 850 in the same setup with the reflector. *Multiply by ~ 1.13 to get a reading using this spectral mix.

I'm going to build a test batch (~8) of the 4 channels without the violets - already cut a bunch of diffuser plates on the laser cutter.
 
A few more shots of the 16up "20k" version (with violets):

build4-1.jpg

build4-4.jpg

build4-5.jpg


The observant reader may notice the cathode and anode is swapped for channel 3 and 4 - yes, I populated them according to my 2 channel assembly steps, so the entire bottom row on this first test is backwards. Easy to fix with wires ;)
 
No room in center for any other LED's or is the concern heat?



Basically thermals. Right now all the LEDs have a pie-wedge shaped copper pour that runs under both pads. An LED in the center would have a very minimal heat conducting surface compared to this.
 
Less flattering picture time! (or at least one).

Still working on building a better over-aquarium setup instead of a bench setup, but here is a 16-up 2 channel star, in the 50/50 split configuration with both channels driven at 50% (so really a 10k color mix), on top of my re-building 90G system (lots of frags, a lot less LPS, no more giant montipora dominated tower). Reflector + diffuser is installed, which is my suggested setup. The reflector tip is about an inch from the water surface, which is a very extreme example - I'd suggest about 6+ inches to avoid shading at the periphery (right now the walls of the tank are getting nearly zero light), and one per 12"x12" area. With the bare LEDs this close to the water surface, ripple was super intense. Again, it would need legs.

The left side is lit by the original LEDBricks at a nice 20k point.

10k.jpg


I can't discern any color casting or shadows with the diffuser or the bare LEDs. The reflector alone biases the color between blue and not blue at the edges due to the two-sided setup of this star (blue, everything else).

Going to run more cables so I can grab better pictures at a 20k point.
 
Sweet work.. but a question.. What is the small SMD component on the board at 8 o'clock for?

Its a 10k thermistor. Since they're about $0.10, its a handy way to solder two wires and do a resistor divider to read the substrate temperature.
 
And the 4 channel 20k with violets, being run at 500mA (blues) and 300mA (white + cyan)

20k.jpg


I also did some tests with the light raised about 6 inches which gives the intended spread. Again, this is about half the number of lights I'd install for this 24"x18" area.
 
LEDBrick Project - DIY pendant w/ pucks

They both look really nice over the tank.



And that clam is HUGE!



Got the clam around 2005-2006 (the not pictured flame angel is from 2004). It's survived three moves and a tank crash with little issue. About 13-14".

Planning the inevitable 300g upgrade just so I can give it plenty of sandbed.
 
i suck at figuaring out scmatics for things like this, anyone care to help me out with this I want to DIY a driver board to see how it works.

Just read the datasheet.. It has EVERYTHING you need to know..
How to figure out resistor/cap/inductor values,etc..
 
Just read the datasheet.. It has EVERYTHING you need to know..
How to figure out resistor/cap/inductor values,etc..
ya.....that is why i suck at it. i read that and get all confused im a DIYer with just enough electronics knowledge to screw something up good :-)
 

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