Left LFS with rose anemone and torn foot

jiminy_crime

New member
So, just curious on your experiences here.

I was always told that you should never buy an anemone that has a torn foot.

The LFS here had a tough time removing the rose anemone that I just bought from the rock he was on.

He ended up getting a small tear in the center of his foot. The guy that was helping me said that he is likely to heal and possibly split, which he said is very stressful on anemones, but said he was hardy and most likely will live.

Do you all agree with this statement?
 
BTAs are very hardy. In fact, mine have split so many times that they are overtaking my 210 gal nem tank and have become somewhat of a pest. I have gotten very careless removing them at times for sale/trades and have seriously torn and/or shredded a few, but they always heal up fine in the fuge (and usually split).

I wouldn't be worried about yours.
 
Ok thanks! It was a large rose and was a deep red. How long should I expect to wait to see him fill up after his acclimation? Trying to gauge its progress so if something is off I will know to react.

Thanks again
 
The anemone is in my tank and has filled up on one side but the other side is deflated. Only half of his base is attaching at the moment. Is this normal behavior with a torn foot?
 
Update on rose

Was inflated yesterday and looking good. Woke up today to find it with mouth just sitting open. Nothing coming out of it but it is still holding on to rock.

Thoughts?
 

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I have by accident torn the foot of one of my BTA's and it split into two. A torn foot is not a guaranteed death sentence for a BTA but is still stressful and when added to a new tank adds even more stress which could explain why it is still deflated. Is part of the anemone hanging on to the rocks still? From your pictures it does not look like a goner and I would give it some more time. Whenever I buy an anemone and it is attached to a rock which will not come off I request the rock as well (as long as it is doable).
 
Update: lots of fluctuations in his demeanor. Filled up nicely today. Seems like to like having the clowns around. Not sure if that has anything to do with their health but every time they come around and swim in the tentacles, he seems to inflate a bit.
 

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Just give it time,if the clowns get to rough it will stress the rbta even more.Just keep an eye on the clowns,may need to move them until rbta gets healthy.
 
So am going to do a QT tank for this anemone.

Going to take a 20 gallon long and fill it halfway with DT water. Putting a 50 watt preset heater in it and a 300gph power head in it. I am transferring the one piece of LR he is attached to and going to alternate the lighting from the DT to the QT tank at night so both are getting light.

I don't have Cipro but have some Iodide. Could I dose this and would this help in his rehab and with infection? And with no HOB filter would this be enough to prevent cycle or should I move hob filter to that QT tank? I have heard varying opinions on this is why I ask. And water changes every 12 hours? Is that necessary or is that just to prevent against ammonia spikes?

Thanks
 
do not constantly move him from display to QT. give him some time. A newly added anemone will normally show signs of stress for almost 2 weeks in a new system regardless of the acclimation
 
Update: was going to send him/her to QT but within the last 24 hours, has started to look a hair better. I'm of the opinion if I can leave him alone and see improvement in the way he looks, why stress him out by moving him to a QT tank.

Pic below
 

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imo if you want to treat, you should treat early with Cipro. If not, then let it be.. don't move it around too much.

treating is not cheap either.. 20gal tank half filled.. you end up spending 70-80 gallons of salt water for a $20 BTA..

your last picture looks good. mouth tight and attached..
 
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