Left lights on last night on accident. TT ok or wait?

how about FW dip between transfers ? it would be treating for flukes and ich ?

i will defer to more experienced people on the FW dip part, but my only concern would be the stress that is induced with FW dips. doing 4 or 5 FW dips seems a bit harsh. especially considering how much of a sure-thing TTM + PraziPro is.
 
I use small microwave containers for transferring fish. its see through, so the fish dont even mind going in it ... at last sec I empty most of the water, drop fish in my palm and put it in new water.
 
Yeah, I vinegar bath all airstones 24 hours, then let dry for days.

Good info guys on time of day, mornings are horrid in our household, going to do late evenings instead.
 
how about FW dip between transfers ? it would be treating for flukes and ich ?

IMO & E; FW dips are not to be taken lightly. Sometimes they are necessary to provide temporary relief (i.e. for velvet), or to accurately diagnose a problem (i.e. flukes). However, there is always a risk. I've yet to lose one, but on more than one occasion I've had to "glide" a fish thru s/w (to get s/w flowing thru the gills again) because the fish appeared to have lost his equilibrium following a FW dip.
 
how about FW dip between transfers ? it would be treating for flukes and ich ?

Fresh water dips do nothing for ich. They will, however, confirm flukes. But they are stressful so I do not recommend them except to ameliorate the symptoms of velvet.
 
and actually, when sitting back and thinking about the timing aspect... i would actually argue instead that late afternoon or early evening is the best time to do a transfer. if the Trophont's do indeed all jump off in the middle of the night, lets say 3am as a reference point. Given the entire point of TTM is to wait until Ich goes into the Tomite stage (cyst), then you would highly welcome letting the Protomont and Tomont stages to pass by, which could take between 10 and 30 hours.

just a thought to consider. otherwise if you do early morning water changes, you are much more likely to transfer Protomont's over. Albeit, as mentioned above, doesn't really matter anyway. but worth pointing out.

While this is true, don't forget that ich is not synchronized. That is all tomites do not attach at the same time and trophonts do not drop at the same time. Just keep 72 hours or less for a given transfer cycle and more than 12 days and you should be fine.
 
you can use nets. it just isn't recommended for fish safety. they get stuck and can injure themselves. also, nets can take longer to dry out, and since you need a solid 24+ hours of being dry (that is subsequent to however long it takes to become dry to begin with), you are edging it when using nets. similar situation goes with sponges and even airstones.

i don't even use nets when moving them to my DT for the safety/injury reason. i use my hands. i give them a little kiss on the way over for good luck :love2:

Fish safety?

I thought it wasn't reccomended due to Parasites being caught in the net and transferred over.
 
Fish safety?

I thought it wasn't reccomended due to Parasites being caught in the net and transferred over.

where would the risk be in this though? you would treat a net like any other piece of equipment, cleaning it and letting it air dry until any parasites on it die.

as for transferring over a parasite during the netting process, this is not a problem, just the same as it isn't a problem if the small amount of water that comes over using plastic or your hands. the only life cycle stage this is possible is the Protomont stage (stage when the Trophont jumps off the fish), or highly unlikely is the Tomont stage [although i suspect the parasite would die you disrupt its cyst creation process...]; during the Tomite stage the parasite is stuck to a hard surface, so wouldn't come over in the net and any disruption would burst/kill it.

If you transfer over a Protomont or Tomont, they still have at minimum 80 hours before they complete the life cycle and emerge from the cyst. By then, you have already done your next transfer. hence the 72-hour rule.
 
As Spar says above, if you look at the ich life cycle in detail, you will understand tank transfer intimately as well.
 
Ok thanks guys. He seems to have it down pat.

I tell you though. Some of you remember I just had Velvet.

That crap hit hard and fast...killed some fish very quick.

It's worst than Brook and ICH. Fast deadly killer.
 
yep, i had a new powder blue come in with velvet a few months back -- i couldn't believe how quick it infested the fish and killed it. was one of those, "thank god i QT my fish" moments.
 
velvet killed all my fish back in winter time as well. ... my main reason for QTing is now to detect and prevent velvet ...
 
yep, i had a new powder blue come in with velvet a few months back -- i couldn't believe how quick it infested the fish and killed it. was one of those, "thank god i QT my fish" moments.

Yep, same here. The blue hippo that had it actually survived.

It took at my yellow tang and bicolor Dottyback quickly.

I increased my copper to .5 and seem to have taken it by the ballzz! :-) lol

Thank God I QT!
 
Velvet nightmare!



Wasn't what I've seen Velvet look like in the stores. It's was kinda hard to detect at first.

Basically it was one area as highlighted in pic below that was kinda like brownish spots. Maybe a lil haze, but nothing like petco Velvet. Lol see that all the time.

It was kinda making the skin a bit raised too.

Also, I've never seen a fish scratch so much! Scratched way way more than a fish with ICH.

Almost undetectable on my yellow tang. He too had one area on one side and rubbed it raw. Next day he was dead. My Dottyback caught it, but never payed enough attention to see what it looked like on her.

 
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