Leopard Wrasses?

They both have slime coats which largely prevent ich. TTM is for primarly ich to break its cycle. Thus, the consensus is that TTM is largely unneeded to these specific fish.

Which consensus?

It makes them resistant to ich, not 100% immune. They can still carry it while being completely asymptomatic. So TTM will still work in braking the life cycle of little number of parasites these fish carry.
 
Which consensus?

It makes them resistant to ich, not 100% immune. They can still carry it while being completely asymptomatic. So TTM will still work in braking the life cycle of little number of parasites these fish carry.
I did say "largely". Implying less than 100%.

They could. But it's highly rare, and when it occurs it's likely because the health of the mandarin is already deteriorated, compromising its coat.
See Sk8rs post on the subject.

I'm not saying one can't TTM or that it's not good for you or that there is 0 risk, but that others here by and large roll the dice knowing the risk and believe it to be worth the one exception, which you're absolutely right should never be done for other fish.
A 5 gallon TTM set up puts a mandarin in a small space with little food and constantly moves them. Such stress can weaken the fish or worse. You're better off not getting one if that's too much risk in one's opinion.

Leopards can easily be kept in a QT especially if they are eating everything. And some of the owners in the major thread on the subject have used TTM, while many simply QT at most believing the risk to be a hair more than for a mandarin.
For me, personally, from reviewing the major thread, risks are minimal if I get a leopard from a LFS where I can determine what it eats, and if it's from an isolated show tank where it's highly likely all the fish would be dead from velvet if it was carrying. (I also won't have expensive fish prior).

Others mileage will vary.






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They both have slime coats which largely prevent ich. TTM is for primarly ich to break its cycle. Thus, the consensus is that TTM is largely unneeded to these specific fish.

For a mandarin, a QT means constant supplementing of pods. Most don't bother.

For a leopard wrasse the remaining concern is the possibility of carrying something like velvet, which is why a QT for a few weeks to dose prazi or something like that for internals can be reasonable.

I'm not disagreeing with you on the risks, but the consensus for both of these is that TTM is largely unneeded. And some do take the risk of forgoing a QT because the risk for these specific fish are limited.

I wouldn't by a leopard wrasse from online or a LFS where you can't establish its ability to eat or where it's been kept.



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I worry much more about velvet, Brook, and flukes than I do about Ich. I don't use TTM for QT practice, though it is very effective.
 
No fish is worth not Qting no matter the food requirements. Not QTing a mandarin could be a $30 mistake that ends up wiping out a system because of disease not too mention the time invested which can be years or decades. When tanks are wiped out by disease it is devastating and I would argue is a huge factor in why the average time spent in this hobby is around 3 years. You can do TTM with a sand bed, simply use a tupperware container and fill it with sand and repeat for the next transfer just always use new sand.

Exactly. I have used a Tupperware dish with sand in a QT tank. I just completed a TTM with a Carpenter and Red Head Salon wrasses and they did just fine. At night just wedged under a piece of round (2") PVC
 
TTM and QT'ed my leopard. She did fine with a little tupperware of oolite. 5lb bag got me through TTM, and QT. Fully dried out for weeks, I'll reuse it on the next wrasse I TTM.
 
Hey guys,

Got my two beautiful Leopard Wrasses (meleagris) from LA yesterday. They played dead for a while after I put them in a QT but started swimming shortly after.
Placed a glass container with sand in the tank and a couple of PVC elbows just in case.

I also got some live brine shrimp the day before to welcome them with a good meal but right before meal time they decided to bury themselves in the sand. I still threw a portion in the tank hoping the fish would notice and come out but when I saw some of the tiny shrimps landing on something odd in the sand I decided to gently stick the handle of my net in to poke a bit.
Pushed one of the wrasses out that was a bit stiff but sure enough it jumped right into the sand again and I left it alone.

They seem to be some heave sleepers because it is almost 12h later and they are still nowhere to be found. I dont plan in putting any more shrimp until I see them out.

Q: Should I just wait for them to come out on their own?..is it normal behavior to stay buried for so long?
 
You definitely don't want to disturb them while they're in the sand. That's really stressful. They will come out eventually to eat if they are healthy.
 
:thumbsup:
Understood. Only did it that one time to only one, very gently, I got worried that I saw the little shrimps all over it and though it was done.

For how long can they usually hide when they are acclimating?
 
One of my pair hid in the sand of my DT for 4 or 5 weeks. It must have been out at night or something to eat, because when it finally showed itself, it was fat and happy. I would guess, however, that a few days is closer to the norm.
 
I was prepared for them the second time around. First time around, I used full dosage of Prazi-Pro and about 10 minutes later they were dead. I did not use the TTM with them and use the half dosage of Prazi-Pro. As mentioned before, used a tubberware bowl full of sand. I actually let my QT cycle and I use a couple of rocks from the DT with pods in there and I added some pods. Let them stay in there for about 6 weeks. Have had them for almost a year now and they are now just trying pellets. They will murder some frozen food and flakes.
 
Thank you!. I was planning in doing prazy in the next couple of days once I see them happy but I'll half the dose then.
Plan is to keep them there for as long as I need until they start eating frozen food at least, as my QT is not cycled.
I do have a container with sand, and I assume they are in there taking a long nap. Hopefully they are more outgoing than bill's.
I suppose then I should still feed some live shrimp daily then??...I mean, in case they come out at night.
 
TTM my leopard wrasse for QT. Was no harder than any other fish except having to fill a small tupperware with sand for it to sleep in. Used prazipro with TTM as well, no ill effects to the med.

Immediately took to frozen and prepared foods, even eats flake food, so it wasn't finicky at all in my experience.

I've never bothered with cycling during TTM, since you'll be 100% changing everything anyway. I just drop in some ammonia neutralizer (I use Seachem SAFE) every day, no problems.
 
One of my pair hid in the sand of my DT for 4 or 5 weeks. It must have been out at night or something to eat, because when it finally showed itself, it was fat and happy. I would guess, however, that a few days is closer to the norm.

Bill's wrasses are simply stunning!! Every time I go there I stare at them, beautiful fish. They make me want to get a pair!:hmm5:


Corey
 
So, no much luck in my first try. First wrasse passed on his 4th day at QT. No medication at all added, nothing extra, just a container with sand, a couple of PVC, filter and air stone.
Fed them live brine shrimp and occasional frozen mysis to see if they'd go for it.

Immediately moved the other one to the DT just in case and did well the first two days, it was hidden all day yesterday only to find him struggling at the bottom of the tank this morning. I expect to find it gone when I return home this evening. :(

Not sure what I could have done differently.
 
So, no much luck in my first try. First wrasse passed on his 4th day at QT. No medication at all added, nothing extra, just a container with sand, a couple of PVC, filter and air stone.
Fed them live brine shrimp and occasional frozen mysis to see if they'd go for it.

Immediately moved the other one to the DT just in case and did well the first two days, it was hidden all day yesterday only to find him struggling at the bottom of the tank this morning. I expect to find it gone when I return home this evening. :(

Not sure what I could have done differently.

How did you acclimate the Wrasses when putting them into the QT? Wrasses do not ship well and will succumb to ammonia poisoning if not properly introduced to the QT, or preferably TTM. I lost a few wrasses from LA before I saw this thread.

Also, Did you match SG of the QT to the SG of the shipping water. LA ships from two different locations and sg can be either 1.017 or 1.019
 
How did you acclimate the Wrasses when putting them into the QT? Wrasses do not ship well and will succumb to ammonia poisoning if not properly introduced to the QT, or preferably TTM. I lost a few wrasses from LA before I saw this thread.

Also, Did you match SG of the QT to the SG of the shipping water. LA ships from two different locations and sg can be either 1.017 or 1.019

Link is broken, but I did read a thread about wrasses that may be the same you are referring to. Different experiences. I acclimated them pouring small amounts of water into the shipping bag for over the recommended time. Just like LA suggests.
The second wrasse, the one I left with no hope this AM, was doing fine in the DT for two days and that tank is well established. All other fish are fine.

I normally to TTM to all my fish but I wanted to be as gentle as possible with the wrasses given their particular acclimation issues, so I skipped it.

I'll get replacements from LA, I should probably acclimate them directly into the DT this time around.
 
Link is broken, but I did read a thread about wrasses that may be the same you are referring to. Different experiences. I acclimated them pouring small amounts of water into the shipping bag for over the recommended time. Just like LA suggests.
The second wrasse, the one I left with no hope this AM, was doing fine in the DT for two days and that tank is well established. All other fish are fine.

I normally to TTM to all my fish but I wanted to be as gentle as possible with the wrasses given their particular acclimation issues, so I skipped it.

I'll get replacements from LA, I should probably acclimate them directly into the DT this time around.
.

DO NOT acclimate directly to the DT. Use the TTM to make sure you are not infesting the display with ICK.

The drip acclimation may very well be what caused the death. It is a significant cause of ammonia poisoning.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1959576

Here is a working link, i hope.
 
Thank you [MENTION=16645]hkgar[/MENTION], that is great info indeed. I'll place the new order with LA...hope I have better luck this time!
 
I used to have a lot of new fish die in the first month until I read that sticky and started following it. Almost all of my fish now live long past that point. Ironically the one that didn't make it to a month was leopard wrasse. Rarely came out over 3 weeks and was skinnier each time.
 

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