Let's be brutally honest about fish...

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
...and ich.

We haven't mentioned quarantine for a while in the newbie forum, so let me do it.
1. quarantine is not to protect your fish so much as it is to protect your TANK---remember that glass box you invested so much care in getting started? Don't screw it up.
2. quarantine all fishes from the very first fish. Never mind the inverts. The fish are the ones ich attacks.
3. NEVER count on medicating in your display. Medication must be done in a hospital tank.
4. a quarantine tank is not cycled, has no live rock or sand, and uses only PVC pipe for shelter. You can use a plain floss filter WITH carbon in a quarantine tank. You must withdraw the carbon if it becomes a hospital tank or it will take the medication out of the water.
5. if you ever use nets, hose, thermometers, etc in a coppered tank, mark them clearly in something that will never fade and NEVER use those things in your display tank or let them mix with your other gear. COpper is a poison: the only way it works is by killing the ich before it kills your fish.
6. if you discover ich in your tank the standard treatment is to catch all fish and put them either in hypo or under copper treatment in a hospital tank. All fish. If you have a mandarin, it is going to cost you a fortune in bought pods. You have to leave that tank fishless for 6-8 weeks to allow the ich to starve to death, because it has reproduced into your sandbed. Think of it as lethal fleas.

There are those who opt to leave ich infested fish in a very big tank in the theory they had rather lose all their fish than move that rock chasing them down... or they are too big to quarantine. Some fish do survive or get over it, and feeding pureed real garlic mixed in their food can help, but you risk losing every single fish you own and STILL having to leave your tank fishless for 8 weeks. If only one fish survives, you should wait, imho, 3 MONTHS before buying a new fish---and just cross your fingers it won't start another outbreak. If you're smart, you'll qt this new fish and not take a chance. Maybe the pest will have died out. Maybe it won't. Some fish are able to throw it off. After a number of months, you will be safer and safer, but that is not the recommended procedure. SAFEST is to qt every fish every time. I make one exception, for obligate specialty feeders, like mandarins, etc. In that instance, you hope it's an ich-resistent species, you roll the dice, you bet your whole tank it's not carrying it, and you just cross your fingers for the next 4 weeks that it doesn't show up. Your chances of dodging the bullet are better if said fish has been at 1.021 salinity for a couple of months at the lfs before you buy it, and is observably in healthy, even immaculate condition...but again...it is a risk, and you should know what you risk: every fish you've got.

This is why it is the goal of reef-keepers to get a good healthy fish population going and safe and well and NOT to go on adding fish. Play fish-hotel, or new-catch-of-the-week, or buy a fish the first few days it's at your lfs, without quarantine, and sooner or later you will meet this disease---probably sooner, since it is very, very, very, very common in fish stores.

Hate to be a prophet of doom, but I'd rather warn ahead of time and let people know what the choices are. The first choice is the best. Period.
 
How do you plan to keep fish in a tank that is not cycled for 4 weeks? Wouldn't this be much worse for the fish?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13061657#post13061657 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jpa0741
How do you plan to keep fish in a tank that is not cycled for 4 weeks? Wouldn't this be much worse for the fish?

Limited feedings and daily water changes (along with siphoning detritus off the bare bottom). You can help the cycle significantly if you use filter media that's been seeded by letting it sit in your main tank for a few weeks, or buy some cheap live rock rubble from your LFS and use that as your bio-filter.

Again, it's not so much about the health of this one fish, but the health of your entire display tank. The purposes of QT are to (i) allow your fish to be in a place where there is no stress/no competition for food so that it can stabilize/bulk up and (ii) watch for disease so that you can prevent it from getting into your display.
 
You can keep it in the qt tank w/ a sponge filter that is seeded from your main tank or something to that effect. You just have to be diligent w/ water changes and ammonia testing and be very cautious about feeding.
 
Thanks for the detailed ichy information!

I'm curious about how to keep a completely sterile QT tank properly filtered; I know for many people it's a standard. Are water changes effective enough?

Also once fish have gotten over ich, are they still carriers?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13061727#post13061727 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cantonesefish
Thanks for the detailed ichy information!

I'm curious about how to keep a completely sterile QT tank properly filtered; I know for many people it's a standard. Are water changes effective enough?

Also once fish have gotten over ich, are they still carriers?

I don't know what you mean by a sterile QT. Some people keep the QT up and running all the time, so that it's cycled when they add fish. A lot of people (myself included) break down the QT once the fish has been through the QT period, although I move the bio-wheel for my QT filter into the sump of my display so it's ready for the next time I buy a fish.

Once a fish has been succesfully treated for ich, either through hyposalinity, copper or formalin dips, chances are good that the fish is ich-free, although there is no guaranty. Some fish become resistant to ich and can harbor the parasite without showing any signs of active infection. The goal is to minimize the likelihood that you'll introduce a disease/parasite into your display. If you quarantine a fish for 6 weeks and it doesn't show any signs of disease, your chances are pretty good that you won't carry over anything to your display when you add the fish.
 
I move the bio-wheel for my QT filter into the sump of my display so it's ready for the next time I buy a fish.


It is never mentioned but I want to be clear... You do not move the biowheel to your sump if you have had to medicate the QT do you? If you must medicate do you buy a new wheel for the next time?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13061984#post13061984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by macchicks
It is never mentioned but I want to be clear... You do not move the biowheel to your sump if you have had to medicate the QT do you? If you must medicate do you buy a new wheel for the next time?

Right, if I've medicated with copper, I chuck the bio-wheel. In fact, if my fish had any disease, I chuck the biowheel. I only move the biowheel into the sump if the QT has gone off without a hitch.
 
Thanks for yet another good article. I'm going to save a link to this for when I start adding fish. I got lucky w/o qt on the last setup but I expect to spend a bit more for fish this time and don't feel like risking it. Guess I should get a few spare aquaclear sponges and some filterbags on my next order.
 
just add my .02 here...

i've watched my cleaner shrimp clean fish of the ich but dont rely on a cleaner solely.

also black ich is different then white ich a simple freshwater dip for 3-5minutes for black ich then a week later dip again should take care of it
 
I just put several zoa frags and a large finger leather in QT today. 4-6 weeks later they'll be in my main tank.
 
An excellent posting Sk8r. If you are leaving a tank fallow, you accelerate the ich life cycle by raising your temperature a bit.
 
Great advice as always. Last week I set up a QT tank, this week I have a new Blonde Naso Tang on observation. 4-6 weeks isn't that long of a wait. Especially when you take into consideration the investment of time and money put into the one's display tank!
 
I tend to rely on a dip: zoas are among the hardest to spot things on: and sps predators can be extremely tiny. But if you dip and spot anything that left and floats, it's a good sign to go slow with that piece...where I trade, (they also dip, very carefully, and my lfs owner is an experienced reefer and frag-producer.) I have never had it happen, yet, but the day I do get a 'kill' that piece is not going immediately into my tank. One of these days I could get surprised, but not yet, so far, with lps and sps.
 
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