Lighting Adjustment (SIGNIFICANT Intensity/PhotoPeriod CHANGE to tackle Algae/Cyano

[Wally.B]

NEW Lighting Schedule (SIGNIFICANT Intensity/PhotoPeriod CHANGE to tackle Algae/Cyano Problem)


I posted this thread on my Tank thread but I thought this lighting section might get some better/broader feedback (on a lighting adjustment).

My tank is a SPS Frag only 65 Gallon Tank (3ft) as below.

(Cyano Problem...Skimming fine, not over feeding fish, , Stopped Coral Feeding (incl. Additives like Amino), Corals improving color/growth).

I originally had a SPS Coral color problem due to starving corals, and after increasing fish, plus coral feeding, I started getting a Algae/Cyano problem that I'm having a hard time beating.


** I DID as recommended increase my Clean up crew significantly with a variety of Snails, and hermits **
** Also, my circulation is very good with a X150 Gyre, and 3 other Power Heads. Tank return rate fine **

So I'm attempting a lighting change to my tank (specifically. Intensity and Photoperiod).


This idea came about when a fellow reefer came by and commented that my 2x 250W MH lights may be too much for my 3 ft tank. Thus one cause for my Algae/Cyano problems.

His suggestion was to try and run the tank on a single 250W Bulb (centered on tank), which I played with, but was concerned with Left & Right Coral coverage. (The coral Sides).

Then I got an idea since my MH lights are DUAL ballast, and switchable (150W, 175W, 250W, HQI).

The light setup is as below:

The OLD VS NEW Lighting Schedule is as below.

Basically in a nutshell here are the changes:

- I have switched the ballast on MH lights from 250W to 175W (30% intensity reduction)
- I could have raised lights, but the current height is ideal for full tank width coverage.
- I am running Right MH Bulb ONLY followed by, Right & Left MH lights, followed by Left MH Bulb ONLY (Additional Lighting Reduction)
- I have INCREASED MH light Photo Period to 5hrs 30min from 4hrs 45min (But overall PARS are less)
- Overall Main Light Photo Period is now 6 Hrs. (Increased exposure)
- I am now running T5 HO lights as fillers during LEFT or RIGHT only MH lights
- T5 fillers are OFF during (MH LEFT/RIGHT Light overlap) (Small Intensity Decrease)
- Dual Overlappeed MH bulb time is now only 1 hour from 4hrs 45min. (Significant Intensity Decrease)
- Low Power LED lights are not a significant lighting source, so not under consideration.

This may be a bit confusing, but basically I have increased the overal photo Period, but decreased intensity, and staggered the MH lights, with a much shorter Dual MH bulb overlap.

Plus now the tank looks better with extra (T5 Actinic, T5 Blue Plus) time.

I also get a East to West sun moving look, while T5's fill in the Coverage Gaps.

I'll be watching the corals closely over next week or so.


Any comments? Objections? Support? Votes of insanity (for SPS Coral Shock)?

 

[Crusinjimbo]

I have battled cyano for well over a year with about every remedy I could locate on this Site and the only thing that worked for me was establishing a functioning ATS and periodic lights out for 3 days. I think it is less of a light issue than an excess nutrient problem. Stats on your water tests results and methods would help target the source issue.

 

[azjohnny]

Agree with CJ that it has to do less with the lighting. Check your phosphate levels

 

[Perth_reefer]

Maybe not an option for you but I run Zeovit. When I bought a school of Anthias I added an autofeeder and started to feed more heavily. Almost straight away I had an algae/cyano issue. I did increase my CUC but also started dosing heavier on Zeostart3 and Zeobak, the issue was gone within a couple of weeks. I did recently start dosing Amino Acids and got the same issue so have had to adjust slightly for that too, it's all a big balancing act!
You can use Zeovit products without running the whole system so it may be worth looking into.

 

[Wally.B]

Yes nutrients is the higher factor, but I do have good export. (Wet Skimming, Carbon, and weekly water changes).

Here is proof that Lighting is driving the Cyano (even though no extra nutrients added- Coral Feeding, Additatives (RECENTLY STOPPED) )

Two Photo's taken same day - TODAY (with new lower lighting setup).

First Photo is Morning after a night of darkness (Almost no Cyano)

Second Photo is Evening after Main Lighting cycle (Cyano coming back)

Cyano Cycle was worse before when I had higher lighting schedule. (Today is just first day with lower settings)

I looked at my skimmer today, and it's a couple of feet away from my SPS tank lights (getting way less light).
Loaded with Coraline. SO PERHAPS my lighting is too much and burning off my potential coralline and feeding my Cyano. (I hardly have coralline growing on glass or rocks, when chemistry is perfect).

ALSO....I do believe in ZeoVit, and I used some of their standalone products (Phol's Extra, Coral Vitalizer, Potasium Elements, B-Balance Elements, Coral Snow).

But I have now cut off all additives that contain (Amino Acids) while Cyano/Algae issue is here.

I did treat my other tank with ZeoBak + Coral Snow, and also put my tank rocks in total darkness for couple of months (while "LPS" corals were put in holding tank). It's now Cyano free (some controllable algae)
I CANOT do this for SPS tank with encrusted corals.

I ALSO have considered an ATS, but that's a bigger journey to target Algae more so than "Cyano BACTERIA".