Lighting and Filter question's?

[ScubaChinchilla]

Hello everyone I'm Frank and I am completely new to saltwater, I am very impressed how much information this form has and I have been reading some of it for 6 days now. I am planing on using a 45 gallon setup that I used for freshwater (pic included) my concern for that tank was that I did have a parasite plague that caused that tank to crash, I used clout to beat the parasites for a year with two treatments but the third invasion was the end, I read the ingredients of clout and it did not contain copper should I still be worried?, and how to clean the tank after in has been empty for 2 years should I use soapy water or vinegar? The lighting on the hood is a single bulb and O do not think this will do because I want my first addition to be an anemone should I A. modify the hood to support two bulbs or B. buy a canopy hood with 4 bulbs. I plan on adding two ETM corals later. For my filtration I am mostly DYI, I am building a overflow box that has 1 inch hosing and build a wet/dry filter out of a ten gallon tank, for filter media using a combination of liverock and bioballs and for my return pump I was going to pick one with a 600gph (today) But I don't know what brand or if I should go weaker or stronger? as for my protein skimmer I have to idea for that my budget of $100 starting and don't mind spending more for better results all suggestions welcome. What size heater should I put in, slump or tank , I was thinking 180 watt's? One last question for now how much inch's per gallon for fish I have read conflicting info that it is 1 inch to a gallon or 5 inches per gallon( and for my salt choice I am going to buy instant ocean drum)? I will discuss live stock later this should keep me busy for a while, I rather do it slow then wrong

 

[returnofsid]

Okay...to start with...NEVER use soap. Use a bleach solution to start with...then after it's rinsed well...use vinegar....then rinse well again.

Next...consider changing your plans on your first inhabitant. Anemone's need a very stable and mature tank. It's recommended that they start out in a tank that's at least 6 months old, a year is better.

Also reconsider the wet/dry. Bio-balls will quickly become a nitrate factory. Using live rock in the sump can have bad consequences as well since detritus can quickly get stuck in the small pores and again, become a nitrate factory. Consider building a sump/refugium out of the 10 gallon instead and using only live sand and live rock in the tank for filtration. You can also add a deep sand bed to the refugium portion of the sump/fuge and fill the fuge portion with Macro Algae, such as Chaeto. This will be a great benefit to the tank and a nitrate exporter.

Lighting...your lighting needs will depend on what types of corals you intend to keep. Compact Fluorescents will be fine for soft corals and most LPS. If you intend to keep SPS or Clams, you'll need to go with either T5HO or Metal Halide lighting. PC lighting will be marginal for an anemone, depending on what anemone species you intend to keep. I'd consider a Sunlight Supply Tek5 unit from www.reefgeek.com . They're a great fixture and will allow you to keep just about anything in that size tank.

For a skimmer and considering your budget, I'd look for a used Aqua C Remora or Aqua C Urchin. The difference between them is that the Remora is a HOB unit, while the Urchin is used in a sump. They're both GREAT skimmers and rated up to 75 gallon tanks.

As you mentioned, you'd rather do it slow than do it wrong. Keeping this in mind, plan on cycling your tank without any fish in it for 6-8 weeks. Then add fish slowly. Plan on starting out the tank with about 50 pounds of live rock. Let your tank cycle with live sand and live rock and NOTHING else. During the cycle, keep the skimmer running and keep up on water changes. Your lighting won't really matter during the cycle. Regularly test for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrates during the cycle. Use quality test kits such as Salifert. Your cycle will follow the same form as with fresh water. You'll notice an Ammonia spike followed by a Nitrite spike as your Ammonia lowers to 0. Then you'll notice a Nitrate spike as your Nitrite lowers to 0. The only way to lower your Nitrates will be with skimming, water changes and any Macros you have in your sump/fuge. Don't add anything to the tank until you have all 3 at 0. Actually, you could add a clean up crew after Ammonia and Nitrite are at 0.

Do a lot of reading and be very patient. SW is not a lot more difficult that FW but you do have to be A LOT more patient!!

 

[ScubaChinchilla]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9786236#post9786236 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by returnofsid
Also reconsider the wet/dry. Bio-balls will quickly become a nitrate factory. Using live rock in the sump can have bad consequences as well since detritus can quickly get stuck in the small pores and again, become a nitrate factory. Consider building a sump/refugium out of the 10 gallon instead and using only live sand and live rock in the tank for filtration. You can also add a deep sand bed to the refugium portion of the sump/fuge and fill the fuge portion with Macro Algae, such as Chaeto. This will be a great benefit to the tank and a nitrate exporter.

When planing the sump/refugium ,The water coming in does it have to be filtered with filter media pads , active carbon , and should the protein skimmer be placed in the slump,and pump and heater?. I know I saw a diagram of it on the form but do you have a pic of suggested setup or the link?

 

[CarmieJo]

You do not need to have filter media or carbon. Your skimmer can live in the sump, sit outside of it or hang on the tank. I prefer to keep my heater in my sump just because it looks nicer. Here is a link to a lighting podcast that you may find helpful. http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/p...ghting-part-1-intro-podcast-episode-75-a.html

 

[ScubaChinchilla]

I am going to continue the rest of the thread in the DIY section under "building 10 gallon sump/refugium" , I have also made some minor purchase's yesterday.