bigloggerhead
New member
What T5 configuration would you guys recommend going with? I'm more than likely going to have a 4 39 watt configuration and I'll probably use the Geissemann bulbs.
Lighting suggestions for 58 Reef Ready
- Thread starter bigloggerhead
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hahnmeister
In Memoriam
For what tank? The 18g? I would go 1x actinic03, 1x aquablue, 1x blue+, 1xsun pro.
bigloggerhead
New member
No, the T5's will be my actinic's on the 58. Gonna use the 250 HQI just need to know what T5's to go with.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Ahhh. 4x39wattT5s. Id go with two ATI blue+ and two UVL Super Actinics.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Its nearly identical to the Ushio 10,000K
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
50s do as well, but from what I remember, 58s are Oceanic... and that explains everything.
bigloggerhead
New member
Yeah there's no center brace on my 58. It is an Oceanic. So I think mounting the halide over the middle of the tank should be good. Plus I built my canopy to be 14.5 inches from the top of the water so I should get pretty good light coverage.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Halides on a 55g are a PITA. You have to go with dual 250s usually (too wide for a single bulb to cover, and too tall for 150watters) , and thats 500watts which alot is wasted. A 75g is a much better use for dual 250s.
But 4-6 54watt T5s will be fine, even with the center brace. Sure, there will be a 2-3" wide spot in the middle where the light gets blocked (you might see a small shadow right underneath the cross brace maybe a couple inches wide and deep, thats all), but you wont notice it, and it will only block a minor percentage of light.
But 4-6 54watt T5s will be fine, even with the center brace. Sure, there will be a 2-3" wide spot in the middle where the light gets blocked (you might see a small shadow right underneath the cross brace maybe a couple inches wide and deep, thats all), but you wont notice it, and it will only block a minor percentage of light.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Depends on which halides you are comparing to...
If you mix 1x ATI sun pro, 1x aquablue/11,000K (or ATI's 12,000K), 1x blue+ (also called actinic+... its the blue bulb), and 1x actinic03 (purple)
If you mix 1x ATI sun pro, 1x aquablue/11,000K (or ATI's 12,000K), 1x blue+ (also called actinic+... its the blue bulb), and 1x actinic03 (purple)
bigloggerhead
New member
Hahn, is there any reason why you prefer the ATI and UVL bulbs over the Geisemann?
bigloggerhead
New member
I was also wondering, do you prefer the Tek retro or the Icecap retro system? And why?
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
The ATIs have slightly higher outputs than the G-man. I run the G-man myself because 6 months ago that was the best available. Then ATI and G-man were the same, and since have split... with the ATIs having a slight advantage.
I dont prefer the UVL superactinic... but many people do. Its one of if not the highest output actinic on the market right now... but it kind of cheats to get there. The actinic+ or blue+ bulbs are a blue shade, about 450nm, which is about 4x easier to make light with than actinics (as in, they have about 4x the output, and rival daylight bulbs even). Most actinics are duller, but thats because they are more purple, peaking at 420nm. The UVL gets away with being slightly brighter than the other actinics because if you look at it in comparison to other companies true actinics... you will notice it has a blue color... like they cheated. They used a slightly less actinic frequency that has a higher output. For many, this is fine though, unless you want the true actinic only.
I dont prefer the UVL superactinic... but many people do. Its one of if not the highest output actinic on the market right now... but it kind of cheats to get there. The actinic+ or blue+ bulbs are a blue shade, about 450nm, which is about 4x easier to make light with than actinics (as in, they have about 4x the output, and rival daylight bulbs even). Most actinics are duller, but thats because they are more purple, peaking at 420nm. The UVL gets away with being slightly brighter than the other actinics because if you look at it in comparison to other companies true actinics... you will notice it has a blue color... like they cheated. They used a slightly less actinic frequency that has a higher output. For many, this is fine though, unless you want the true actinic only.
bigloggerhead
New member
What about the systems in my last post? Which do you prefer?
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
A little bit of both. I would go with the regular output ballasts of the Tek retrofit, but the better reflectors of the Icecap (SLR reflectors). You can contact Geek and get the the reflectors swapped out on the Tek retro for the icecap. And be sure to have a couple fans blowing air across the bulbs to keep them cool... keeping the bulbs cool will provide you with a bigger boost in output than the Icecap ballast will, and will help those bulbs last the full 2 years they were designed to.
bigloggerhead
New member
Appreciate the suggestions on the reflectors. I'll have to keep that in mind when I order the lights. What about a 250 HQI retro? Do you know of any in particular that are not too outrageous in price?
bigloggerhead
New member
Still researching the retro systems. Just not quite sure which one to go with. I'm gonna have to get one pretty quick.
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