Lighting Website Updates

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6565560#post6565560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mwood
Sanjay, could you test uri vho actinics and t5 blue bulbs and post those on the website to be able to compare that light to 20k halides?

I've always had the question of whether someone had already tested the VHO or T-5 bulbs for PAR. I have not seen any direct testing data like the one Sanjay has done for MH bulbs. It would be interesting to read if someone has it.

Also, I wonder why is it that the same ballast with different bulbs will use different wattage and amperage. I see in Sanjay's site that the radium 400 watt with a PFO HQI ballasts uses 5.11A. The same ballast with a XM 10,000K uses 5.31A, but that same arrangement in my house uses 3.47A with a Kill-O-Watt meter (XM and PFO HQI ballast)?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6565560#post6565560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mwood
Sanjay, could you test uri vho actinics and t5 blue bulbs and post those on the website to be able to compare that light to 20k halides?

I would either have to clone myself or somehow increase the length of each day to 48 hrs.:D :D :D

I just can't find the time to do it. I am still back logged with MH lamps right now have several sitting to be tested. Between work, family, tanks, breeding fish.. lamp testing takes a back seat.

To do the FL right, it would require some serious though how to best evalute them given the 4ft length, and would require redoing my testing rigs.

So for right now.. all I can say is that it wont happen in the near future.

I do have the data now for some 24" T5 fixtures though, that I will show in my presentation at WMC.

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6566793#post6566793 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nreefer
I have read all 15 pages and excuse me if I missed this but I used to run 250W SE Ushio's 10,000K with a M57 ballast and switched to 250 HQI DE Ushio 10,000K with a M80 ballast. Is it true that my PPFD went from 116 for the SE bulbs down to 84 with my DE bulbs? So I actually lost PAR by going to a DE system?
Or is my thinking wrong?
Do SE bulbs outperform DE bulbs?

Check out Sanjat's site. Click on: Spectral Plots - Compare 2 Lamps
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/articles.htm
SE = 118 PPFD
DE (shielded) = 84 PPFD
 
Thanks! I am using the Mini Pendants from PFO lighting which I read are pretty good reflectors. But all the reading I have done on the Luminarc reflectors makes me think that a SE with Luminarcs are better than a DE with the Mini Pendants. Is that true?
 
I doubt it. You got numbers in terms of total incident light using a 400w bulb in the LAIII that were only a little bit more than what you could generate with a DE pendant (controlling for a somewhat similar bulb). Obviously all of this is bulb/ballast dependant as well. Where the LAIII realy excels IMO is that if you are not lighting up 2x2 footprint areas the wider dispersal is nice. The other thing is that visually the DE pendants "cone down" the light so sometimes you get more shadows than you will from the more dispersed effect of the LAIII.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6567089#post6567089 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
I would either have to clone myself or somehow increase the length of each day to 48 hrs.:D :D :D

Sanjay,
You need to "hire" yourself some local college students as interns. And let them count their time as "reefer community" service hours.

I know I like being able to see empirical data on lighting. I'm pretty sure most others on here do as well.

Thanks for all your hard work,
Will
 
hey sanjay all ur information is great i was wandering ur opinion on the 48 in coralife aqualight pro should i change these 150 10k halides with some aqualine or ushio bulbs and if so how high off my 90 should they be off the water surface?
 
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Sanjay, I can't decide between the EVC 10k and 14k I will not actinics for a while and wondered if I would be loseing a lot by going with the 14k.
 
Too bad you can't blend the two. I've always thought the evc 14k would make a good blue supplement to a white bulb.
 
Two bulbs sharing the same reflector. Only works with some setups. The goal is a complete blend of the light.
 
Sanjay,
I wanted to pick your brain for a second (not Hannibal style...dont worry).

There are many out there that believe that 'PAR is PAR is PAR'...and that is all they consider when picking out bulbs for coral growth (besides looks). So according to them, coral growth with a yellower bulb woud be just as good as a bluer bulb...just as long as the PAR is the same. I just dont find this to be true...

In plants, red spectrums are for budding, and blue for growth...with green being reflected. In many cyanos, they feed off of IR so they dont have to compete with other species. I theorize that corals use the blue spectrum almost 100% and have little use for other spectrums (or access). Being that corals have less and less exposure to red spectrums as the depth in the ocean increases, warmer light would be an unlikely necessity or of possible use. Red pigments are used as a camoflage if nothing else...by corals and fish alike. Green spectrums are as useless to most any photosynthetic creature...no matter if they are land-plants or one of the 14 some-odd symbiotic cells being researched.

Many proponents of the 'PAR is PAR and thats all that matters to a coral' cite the Iwasaki 6500K as their main example. But when you look at the spectral graph, its easy to see why its a great grower. It contains just as much, if not more 420 and 450nm range light as a 10,000K...we just dont see it because it also has lots of green and warmer spectrums as well covering the bluer light up.

Where might warmer light come in? Well... In personal experience, I have 'overexposed' corals to the point that they brown out and stop growing. But only with 10,000K bulbs. OTOH, I have put two 400watt 20,000Ks (Radium and XM) over a 30breeder, and the corals do not brown out, and they grow like weeds as long as I keep the calcium coming. Coral 'farmers' have long touted the 1000watt 20,000K as the ultimate coral bulb...and despite the fact it might be used only 12" away from the coral...the coral doesnt brown out.

IMO, warmer spectrums tell the corals when to stop growing and 'brown out'. Why? Well, as a coral approaches the surface, the warmer specrtums increase. It would be in a corals best interest to stop growing before it ends up growing out of the water. It would also be in its best interest to start reflecting more light as it gets into shallower areas by turning brown in case of any UV. Well, Im not for sure on this...just a guess.

But the blue light part I am. I propose that the only real important spectrums for any bulb are in the 400-500nm range (blue). Is there a way to take readings from your equipment to compare the PAR's from just the 400-500nm range? This would level the playing field between 20,000Ks and 10,000Ks...which seems likely. I have gone from 10,000K bulbs to 20,000K bulbs with half the output, yet seen faster coral growth...all other parameters kept the same.

I wonder if in your research what your opinion would be on measuring the relative PAR's for just the 400-500nm spectrums. What do you think?

Also, is there a way to experiment with this? I was thinking of trying to find two bulbs...one of entire 420 and 450nm outputs...perhaps a T5 fixture with blue and actinic only... and then in another connected tank, use some bulbs that have almost completely red/yellow light but of equal PAR. Halogens maybe? How could this be done?

I would like to see once and for all if warmer light means anything to our reefs. If not, then perhaps a second PAR reading covering only bluer spectrums would be more important to us.
 
f1fig3.jpg
 
Gosh, according to my theory, that chart does explain why my Aqualine 10,000K bulbs were such crap growers. thanks Mwood...was that something you had already, or did you just make that? Can the same be done for other bulbs?
 
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