Lighting Website Updates

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thansk! that helps alot...now Im a newb when it comes to learning ballast and lighting so what is sheilded and not sheilded? is this refering to glass cover or something to do with the ballast? and if its the ballast how cna I tell?


edit: actually there is some really good stuff in this thread so I am going to go back and read up!!! but if you can help with a direct answer or link that would be great!
 
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Shielded and not shielded refers to the glass cover.

DE bulbs need a glass shield to protect from UV damage the bulbs give off.

SE bulbs already have this glass protection built around the bulb, where DE bulbs dont have that shield built around the bulb.
 
thanks guys! I think I know what to expect from my setup however in the phoenix I beleive sanjay only tested the 250! so I can go on that sorta and the ballast was an m80 not m81 and I can count on sheilded....all I needed to know! is there a diference between how the 80 and 81 run bulbs as far as par or energy consumption?
 
Has there been any testing of 150W 14k DE bulbs? I only see one 14k bulb in these tests.

I'd really like to know about the 14k ushio, phoenix & the 13k giesemann.

I've herd the 14k phoenix is pretty much the same as the ac on the test. Is this true?
 
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I was wondering if there is info on 400w SE halides. i am running 2- 400w xm 10,000k I also have a xm 20,000k lamp Which I like the color but figure the par is much lower. All lamps are being fired on PFO pulse start ballasts. Thanks
John
 
zanclus, the first post in this thread has a link to where you can get lamp and ballast specs. Sanjay has done a pretty thorough job of covering the majority of 400w and 250w bulbs and ballasts on the market. All the info is there. You just need to click the link and put in your lamp and ballst.
 
Does anyone know when AB changed their 10000K bulbs? I have one that I bought in 2001 and the one I bought the other day looks different. The ceramic ends are different and the light it puts out is a bit bluer. My ballast also makes a little more noise when the new one fires up.

Is the data on the site from the new bulb or the old one? I have the 250W DE version.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7812430#post7812430 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smatter
Does anyone know when AB changed their 10000K bulbs? I have one that I bought in 2001 and the one I bought the other day looks different. The ceramic ends are different and the light it puts out is a bit bluer. My ballast also makes a little more noise when the new one fires up.

Is the data on the site from the new bulb or the old one? I have the 250W DE version.
Click to expand...

I do not know if and when they changed thier lamps.

I should add the month/year when the lamps were tested... too many things too little time.

:(

sanjay.
 
I believe they might have changed it as well. I remember AB 10,000Ks (pseudo 13,000K) to be rather yellow... more like XM 10,000Ks than Ushios. I hear from some people now that they are more of a crisp blue and I go 'whaaaaattttt???, are you kidding?'.
 
DE, and I noticed on their site that they have a cheaper bulb called the Oceanlight. I bought it slightly used, it was removed from a new AB fixture. I wonder if I got one of these cheaper bulbs. I bet it is what they include with the fixtures.
 
I usually do not keep track of the latest bulbs out there.. but if you see one and want to get it tested ask the manufacturer/supplier to send me one and I will eventually get around to it. :-)

Its a slow process given that I have a lot of other stuff gets priority over testing lamps that I would most likely have very limited interest in, but it will eventually get done.

sanjay.
 
Sanjay, I am still trying to decide between the ocean optics... the USB650 or the USB4000. Maybe Im being foolish, but what level of accuracy is closest to what you are using?

Also, do you have specs/diagrams listed anywhere for how one can replicate the testing conditions/devices you use for testing bulbs? It would be nice if I could replicate your test results as much as possible so that direct comparisons could be made between the systems. Im looking for info on the 'black box' and whatever else you use.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7903850#post7903850 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Sanjay, I am still trying to decide between the ocean optics... the USB650 or the USB4000. Maybe Im being foolish, but what level of accuracy is closest to what you are using?

Also, do you have specs/diagrams listed anywhere for how one can replicate the testing conditions/devices you use for testing bulbs? It would be nice if I could replicate your test results as much as possible so that direct comparisons could be made between the systems. Im looking for info on the 'black box' and whatever else you use.
Click to expand...

I think if you get the new one that they have.. the Red Tide model it should be fine. It costs $999.

You will need a cosine corrected PAR sensor, a caliberation light source, since these spectrometers read relative values and to have the software convert into absolute you need an known spectral source.

You will also need to get the software that goes with it.. I think that is around $250 or so.

sanjay.
 
1.I figured the software and the probe... didnt figure on a calibration source... are these sold by OO or is that something I have to come up with...??? I suppose I could feed values from a bulb that you have tested and that I have...that would line things up, right? Argh, Ill just wait for OO to call me back (all the sales people are in a meeting today... of course, maybe I should talk to a tech guy/gal instead)

2.anyways... I can get that from OO, what I really wanted to know about was your 'black box'. How big... 4' cube? Where are the holes/ where are the probes held in relation to the sensors? I thought I saw it in one of your articles somewhere, but I cant seem to find it.

3.What is the testing method/setup that you use for testing PAR ?(just a fixed point in a black box w/o a reflector, but how far away from the bulb?)

4.What is the method for spectrum? (same as PAR I assume, or is it different because you use a different instrument to measure?

5.What is the grid like that you use for reflector testing?

6.I was also going to make a test box for T5 bulbs and reflectors... I figure a 6' wide box (for measuring values off to the sides of a 4' bulb with reflectors) that is 12" wide and 24" tall should be enough... or should I go wider for better testing from front to back... something like 18" or even... gosh... 24"? That would be a 180g box for T5 testing... I had better make this thing so it breaks apart for storage or the woman will kill me.
 
would you reccommend runnning 400W 20000K PFO HQI Double-Ended Metal Halide Bulbs on IceCap Electronic Ballasts? or better to use the 400W 20000K IceCap Double-Ended bulbs on the IceCap Ballast?
 
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