Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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Sump de dump...
Sump de dump...
I am trying to decide whether to run more flow through the LR in the Rubbermaid tank, or the DSB in the acrylic sump... I'm thinking there will be more water in the tank, so that's the logical one to get two overflows from the tank...I dunno.
LL
Sump de dump...
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15093104#post15093104 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Sorry, the water tank configuration. I still need to look at your sump plans, which are open in a different tab. Don't worry, I didn't forget.
I am trying to decide whether to run more flow through the LR in the Rubbermaid tank, or the DSB in the acrylic sump... I'm thinking there will be more water in the tank, so that's the logical one to get two overflows from the tank...I dunno.
LL
edandsandy
Active member
:lol:
Actually, it really isn't that complicated, just alot of thougt when into it. We sat down with our Crown & Ginger and talked about what we wanted these tanks to do for us. this is what we cam up with:
The RO/DI design was inspired by glassreef(Tom). MY goal was to have the capability to do any thing I might ever need or imagine in the design; stir water in either tank (independently), move water from either tank to the other, drain each tank independently, move water to the reef tank from either or both tanks, maintenance the pump without cutting pipes, and lastly an automated RO top-off system. The true-union valves enable every need I could imagine.... They are the bomb - not a single leak!
The cam lever cap (banjo fitting) is on the return line. I added this and built a hose apparatus that we use to pump water (from either or both tanks) during water changes!!! The controller is setup to stir the water (in either tank) the night before a water change.
this system allows us to do a water change fast, it's ridiculuos!
Hi again Ed and Sandy...
By tracing the water flow with various valve configurations, I have been able to figure out how the dual tank system works...pretty clever.
But please tell me how the cam lever cap works...that little piece of equipment has me confused. I notice you used a couple of them in your system... what purpose does it serve and how does it work?
P.S. - do those tanks come with a 1" bulkhead already installed in the bottom? I would think it would be a bugger to get a bulkhead down there through the 5" opening... (?)
Thanks again.
LL
edandsandy
Active member
They are quick disconnects, this is where we attach the hoses for the water change outs, so you don't have to use clamps and they keep the water from spraying out when the pumps are on and we cap off the pipe on the drain to keep the smell down, if any...
The cap on the drain also keeps our grandchildren from putting their small toys down the drain too :lol:
If you look at the PVC plumbing, you can see where we drew small blue arrows, this is to remind me which way the water flows. At first it was difficult for me to follow which way the valves go and which valve does what! Ed is the plumber in our house, so he made it simple for me with the arrows.
we purchased them from
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog_name=usplastic&category_name=114&Page=1
30763 1" Dust Cap
30605 1" NPT Male Threaded Adapter
30597 1" Hose, Hose Shank Adapter
30539 1" Hose Hose Adapter
YES, the tanks come with the bulk heads on the bottom.
Last edited:
edandsandy
Active member
I'll ask Ed to do something for you.... give me a couple of days to talk him into first :lol:
Yea!
Yea!
Tell Ed his fan base is depending on him...
...and please come back and give us a link if he starts a thread...
LL
Yea!
Tell Ed his fan base is depending on him...
...and please come back and give us a link if he starts a thread...
LL
Hey Boss! De hole! De hole!
Hey Boss! De hole! De hole!
Chris the builder did his magic tonight, applying the first coat of tape & mud over the drywall. And we got to see our final bit of demolition, as the last vestiges of a wall were removed between the new fish room and our family room...
My wife said, gee that really opens up the room; too bad there's going to be a tank in there..." (I pretended not to hear...)
Finishing up tape and mud:
Holy wall, Batman!
Down she comes...
Too late now...
Now where did this piece go??
More photos to follow...
LL
Hey Boss! De hole! De hole!
Chris the builder did his magic tonight, applying the first coat of tape & mud over the drywall. And we got to see our final bit of demolition, as the last vestiges of a wall were removed between the new fish room and our family room...
My wife said, gee that really opens up the room; too bad there's going to be a tank in there..." (I pretended not to hear...)
Finishing up tape and mud:
Holy wall, Batman!
Down she comes...
Too late now...
Now where did this piece go??
More photos to follow...
LL
May 29 progress...
May 29 progress...
Less than twelve days after committing to this upgrade, we are definitely at the point of no return. We can't repeat how blessed we were to find a contractor with the skill and integrity of Chris.
More photos:
The building inspector ( J. J.)
Inspection apparently passed...
Chris looks so surprised
The last demolition, removing pieces of a hearth that extended too far...
A peek from the fish room into the family room...
Finishing the corner bead and time to quit for the night...
A good night's sleep is planned, then in the morning a second coat of drywall mud, followed by a texture coat. Then tomorrow afternoon, the slab for the tank base will be poured.
More updates this weekend.
Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave your comments and questions.
LL
May 29 progress...
Less than twelve days after committing to this upgrade, we are definitely at the point of no return. We can't repeat how blessed we were to find a contractor with the skill and integrity of Chris.
More photos:
The building inspector ( J. J.)
Inspection apparently passed...
Chris looks so surprised
The last demolition, removing pieces of a hearth that extended too far...
A peek from the fish room into the family room...
Finishing the corner bead and time to quit for the night...
A good night's sleep is planned, then in the morning a second coat of drywall mud, followed by a texture coat. Then tomorrow afternoon, the slab for the tank base will be poured.
More updates this weekend.
Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave your comments and questions.
LL
I think I'll just do a mock up (without glue) of the sump system I have in my brain, take some photos and put them on here for comment. Better to tweak the system while the fittings are just slipped together. That will have to wait until the tank and stand are delivered... just three weeks away.
Thanks Marc.
LL
Gear...
Gear...
In addition to the tank, sumps & stand, we have acquired or have ordered the following vital parts to our upgraded system:
Lights:
Four of the following Icecap SLR retro kits:
Yada yada follows...
Manufacturer: IceCap
Dimensions: 46.8" x 15.0" x 2.8" (L x W x H)
T5 high-output fluorescent retrofit kit complete with IceCap SLR individual parabolic reflectors for each bulb made from 96% German reflective aluminum, three Universal AccuStart Triad electronic ballasts, a power-cord and color-coded wire bundle with quick disconnect for each ballast, moisture proof end-caps, standoffs and choice of bulbs from any of our current selection of high-quality lamps. Kit sold complete except for mounting screws. Some assembly required. Ballasts engineered specifically to run T5 high-output bulbs for optimal performance and longer lamp life. Multiple ballasts allow for independent lamp control. Runs cool and produces virtually no noise.
Skimmer:
ReeFlo Orca 250 with Baldor motor
Now the Yada yada...
ReeFlo Orca 250 is a great new commercial grade protein skimmer from Sequence. Leader in aquarium water transfer technology.
Orca 250 is supplied with Orca needle wheel pump.
This use of the latest single pump technology results in a fine bubble mix with a total power consumption of less than 120 watts.
The protein skimmer is 11.8" in diameter and 32" tall with a footprint of 16" x 20".
It can be installed as free standing unit either inside or outside the stand.
It is made of 1/4" cast acrylic and sch. 80 fittings and connections.
Orca pump is supplied with AO Smith motor and carbide faced seals. Optional upgrade to Baldor aluminum motor is available.
Specifications:
* Watt Draw: 120 watts
* System Capability (gallons): 200 - 800
* Air Flow: 1,950 liters per hour
* Recommended Water Flow: 400-600 gph
* Footprint: 16" x 20"
* Diameter: 11.8"
* Height: 32"
Calcium Reactor:
GEO 624
...and the obligatory Yada yada...
All cell cast acrylic construction
Clear lid to view proper O-ring seal
Key hole slot for lid removal
Full access to the reaction chamber (union tops do not provide this, making maintenance a chore)
Micro ball valve effluent control
Pan world pump, bolted to base plate
pH probe port in lid
pH probe adapter included
Auto fill bubble counter
10 x 10 foot print, 29" overall height
Holds 16 pounds of media, we recommend large grain schuran type
For Large SPS reef aquariums.
Whew!
The skimmer was obtained from a local reefer...the other items are expected next week. Is it Christmas yet?
LL
Gear...
In addition to the tank, sumps & stand, we have acquired or have ordered the following vital parts to our upgraded system:
Lights:
Four of the following Icecap SLR retro kits:
Yada yada follows...
Manufacturer: IceCap
Dimensions: 46.8" x 15.0" x 2.8" (L x W x H)
T5 high-output fluorescent retrofit kit complete with IceCap SLR individual parabolic reflectors for each bulb made from 96% German reflective aluminum, three Universal AccuStart Triad electronic ballasts, a power-cord and color-coded wire bundle with quick disconnect for each ballast, moisture proof end-caps, standoffs and choice of bulbs from any of our current selection of high-quality lamps. Kit sold complete except for mounting screws. Some assembly required. Ballasts engineered specifically to run T5 high-output bulbs for optimal performance and longer lamp life. Multiple ballasts allow for independent lamp control. Runs cool and produces virtually no noise.
Skimmer:
ReeFlo Orca 250 with Baldor motor
Now the Yada yada...
ReeFlo Orca 250 is a great new commercial grade protein skimmer from Sequence. Leader in aquarium water transfer technology.
Orca 250 is supplied with Orca needle wheel pump.
This use of the latest single pump technology results in a fine bubble mix with a total power consumption of less than 120 watts.
The protein skimmer is 11.8" in diameter and 32" tall with a footprint of 16" x 20".
It can be installed as free standing unit either inside or outside the stand.
It is made of 1/4" cast acrylic and sch. 80 fittings and connections.
Orca pump is supplied with AO Smith motor and carbide faced seals. Optional upgrade to Baldor aluminum motor is available.
Specifications:
* Watt Draw: 120 watts
* System Capability (gallons): 200 - 800
* Air Flow: 1,950 liters per hour
* Recommended Water Flow: 400-600 gph
* Footprint: 16" x 20"
* Diameter: 11.8"
* Height: 32"
Calcium Reactor:
GEO 624
...and the obligatory Yada yada...
All cell cast acrylic construction
Clear lid to view proper O-ring seal
Key hole slot for lid removal
Full access to the reaction chamber (union tops do not provide this, making maintenance a chore)
Micro ball valve effluent control
Pan world pump, bolted to base plate
pH probe port in lid
pH probe adapter included
Auto fill bubble counter
10 x 10 foot print, 29" overall height
Holds 16 pounds of media, we recommend large grain schuran type
For Large SPS reef aquariums.
Whew!
The skimmer was obtained from a local reefer...the other items are expected next week. Is it Christmas yet?
LL
Looks great George.
Sump project looks great.
I agree with the guy that said more water thru the sump with the live rock, slower flow thru the sump with the DSB and chaeto. I have a large pore sponge that sump to keep the chaeto from leaving the middle chamber into the clean water return section and being distributed back into the system. Makes a lot of difference.
Sump project looks great.
I agree with the guy that said more water thru the sump with the live rock, slower flow thru the sump with the DSB and chaeto. I have a large pore sponge that sump to keep the chaeto from leaving the middle chamber into the clean water return section and being distributed back into the system. Makes a lot of difference.
That's a good idea. I'm thinking that any chaeto that escaped back into this system would become tang bait pretty quickly...
See you tomorrow afternoon...
LL
Done for the day...
Done for the day...
Chris the builder has completed his part of our project. I certainly recommend him to any local (Oklahoma) reefers who need some remodeling done for a fish room... he was a pleasure to work with.
Here are some photos of today's concrete and joint compound party:
Chris brought in some reinforcements (Carl) to help mix 20 - 80# bags of high strength concrete for the tank stand slab. Using my "new math" skills, that works out to 1600# of concrete in the hole.
Detail of full width footing added to support the stand rear corners:
The pour began, as fast as the mixer could mix and two guys could carry five gallon buckets full of concrete:
Photo showing the rebar that would be used in the footing and across the length of the slab.
Time for J. J. the building inspector to check it out...
We have a slab!
End of the day.
The HS concrete should be fully cured in 7 days. When the joint compound is cured, we'll break out the paint brushes and rollers...
Thanks for looking at our thread. Please say hello to let us know you've been here.
LL
Done for the day...
Chris the builder has completed his part of our project. I certainly recommend him to any local (Oklahoma) reefers who need some remodeling done for a fish room... he was a pleasure to work with.
Here are some photos of today's concrete and joint compound party:
Chris brought in some reinforcements (Carl) to help mix 20 - 80# bags of high strength concrete for the tank stand slab. Using my "new math" skills, that works out to 1600# of concrete in the hole.
Detail of full width footing added to support the stand rear corners:
The pour began, as fast as the mixer could mix and two guys could carry five gallon buckets full of concrete:
Photo showing the rebar that would be used in the footing and across the length of the slab.
Time for J. J. the building inspector to check it out...
We have a slab!
End of the day.
The HS concrete should be fully cured in 7 days. When the joint compound is cured, we'll break out the paint brushes and rollers...
Thanks for looking at our thread. Please say hello to let us know you've been here.
LL
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