Ritteri&Bubbles
In Memoriam
Make sure you have ALOT of liverock in the tank, otherwise that Linkia will starve. I think their eating habits are limited, another one of the problems with them.
linckia starfish
- Thread starter seray21
- Start date
Radcast2
New member
did some research on the blue linckia myself and decide I would get one. I did a 3 hr acclimation..never touched it with my bare hands, just now trying to decide if I should place some squid or clam, or krill by it so that it can it that as well. My tank is 8 months old. Levels stay pretty good I did a 10g water change today first time in 3 weeks and my nitrates before water change was 5-10, but now not getting a reading. I hope it will last as my wife fell in love with it the first time we saw it. Attached is a pic of mine....sorry the flash was on.
I've had a blue linckia for 2 or 3 years now, DSB's in both systems he's lived in. I think the trick is slow acclimation. Once acclimated, he's been quite hardy and survived a number of tank incidents (salinity down to 1.016 by accident, Flatworm exit treatment, pH and temp swings).
Maybe I'm just lucky...
Mike
Maybe I'm just lucky...
Mike
ophiuroid
Premium Member
Couple of things. We know A LOT about these animals. We know most of them die, and we know why. They die of acclimation shock or starvation.
But exposure to air/skin causing death is an old wive's tale. As long as they do not dry out, this is not causing them harm. Handling at the LFS is certainly not the primary cause of death.
The disintegration noted is entirely due to osmotic/acclimation shock which sets in within a MONTH of introduction or major disturbance (eg large water change or salinity swing, temp spike, buffering accident, etc). The overwhelming majority of Linkia or Fromia sp stars will die of acclimation shock within a month, either due to the hobbyist, the LFS or initial supplier.
Most of those that survive will die in 9-12 months of starvation.
In order to keep them, you must start with a healthy specimen from an LFS or supplier that keeps their invert systems at high specific gravity (1.025-1.026) and acclimates the stars. These stars should be acclimated for a minimum of 4 hours, using a drip method, and keeping temperature at tank temperature. Any white spots, mucous, etc is a bad sign and the animal should be avoided.
The tank should be no younger than 6 months old with pristine water conditions, including specific gravity in the 1.025-1.026 range. These stars are incredibly sensitive to fluctuations in pH, alk, and salinity.
A minimum tank size, IMO, for a best chance of success with a blue Linckia is 100g with 150lbs of LR. The larger, the better...the smaller, the riskier and rarer it is to succeed.
Keep in mind that these animals CAN NOT be spot fed, so adding algae, squid, shrimp etc will do nothing. They eat microbial/bacterial films, encrusting animals (sponges, bryozoans) or otherwise, but NOT nuisance algae or detritus. When something has such a specific narrow diet, you must provide a lot of surface area of LR for them for best results....much of this can take time to regrow as well. It is best to have only one of these types of stars, as competition can be fatal.
Fromia sp stars like Sri Lanka stars seem to have an even more dismal survival record, with most dying in 9-12 months. Their diet, though unknown, is thought to consist of sponges.
The 'hardiest' of the Linckia sp stars is the smaller Linckia multiflora which will reproduce readilt in captivity via arm drops. It has done so in tanks as small as 29 g, assuming there is a lot of LR. This species does come in a blue morph and is most likely that which survives in smaller tanks. True blue Linckia are very large, and survival in tanks smaller than 55g for more than a year is quite rare, and quite unlikely. For best results, keep blue Linckia in much larger, very mature systems. If healthy and happy, the star will reproduce through an arm drop, which is the best way, IMO, one should acquire two of these stars.
The orange Linckia, which is more likely a Henricia, is typically somewhat easier to keep, as is the 6 armed burgandy Linckia (Echinaster luzonicus). Nonetheless, all belong in large, mature tanks after a long acclimation, and preferably without other competition from stars. They have similar dietary needs to a blue. The purple Linckia, most often Tamaria stria, is sometimes accused of being predatory, but I am not convinced of this.
BTW, not all brittlestars and serpentstars are known predators. There is no biological difference between brittle/serpentstars. The green brittle/serpent Ophiarachna is a known predator in the wild, and there are reports of other species showing predatory behavior in captivity....but in no way can one make the generalization that they are all predatory.
In short, these is a huge stress placed on Linckia sp stars from this hobby, and the souvenir trade (go into any shell shop, in any beach resort, and look at the ugly dyed versions). Please only keep them if you truly stand a chance of providing a long term home. Please accept that we KNOW it is rare to keep them in tanks smaller than 55 g. Chances increase over 100g with loads of LR.
Success over a year must be considered the standard for them; anything less is too soon to know, though growth is a good sign.
Healthy true Linckia (blues) should have very stout cylindrical arms. If they seem to be flat, or with a groove down them on the back, that could indicate a problem, as does white or mucousy spots or 'guts' coming out the mouth.
Linckia may also carry a parastic snail on them, usually along the grooves on the bottom of the animal, so look for that in any specimen.
But exposure to air/skin causing death is an old wive's tale. As long as they do not dry out, this is not causing them harm. Handling at the LFS is certainly not the primary cause of death.
The disintegration noted is entirely due to osmotic/acclimation shock which sets in within a MONTH of introduction or major disturbance (eg large water change or salinity swing, temp spike, buffering accident, etc). The overwhelming majority of Linkia or Fromia sp stars will die of acclimation shock within a month, either due to the hobbyist, the LFS or initial supplier.
Most of those that survive will die in 9-12 months of starvation.
In order to keep them, you must start with a healthy specimen from an LFS or supplier that keeps their invert systems at high specific gravity (1.025-1.026) and acclimates the stars. These stars should be acclimated for a minimum of 4 hours, using a drip method, and keeping temperature at tank temperature. Any white spots, mucous, etc is a bad sign and the animal should be avoided.
The tank should be no younger than 6 months old with pristine water conditions, including specific gravity in the 1.025-1.026 range. These stars are incredibly sensitive to fluctuations in pH, alk, and salinity.
A minimum tank size, IMO, for a best chance of success with a blue Linckia is 100g with 150lbs of LR. The larger, the better...the smaller, the riskier and rarer it is to succeed.
Keep in mind that these animals CAN NOT be spot fed, so adding algae, squid, shrimp etc will do nothing. They eat microbial/bacterial films, encrusting animals (sponges, bryozoans) or otherwise, but NOT nuisance algae or detritus. When something has such a specific narrow diet, you must provide a lot of surface area of LR for them for best results....much of this can take time to regrow as well. It is best to have only one of these types of stars, as competition can be fatal.
Fromia sp stars like Sri Lanka stars seem to have an even more dismal survival record, with most dying in 9-12 months. Their diet, though unknown, is thought to consist of sponges.
The 'hardiest' of the Linckia sp stars is the smaller Linckia multiflora which will reproduce readilt in captivity via arm drops. It has done so in tanks as small as 29 g, assuming there is a lot of LR. This species does come in a blue morph and is most likely that which survives in smaller tanks. True blue Linckia are very large, and survival in tanks smaller than 55g for more than a year is quite rare, and quite unlikely. For best results, keep blue Linckia in much larger, very mature systems. If healthy and happy, the star will reproduce through an arm drop, which is the best way, IMO, one should acquire two of these stars.
The orange Linckia, which is more likely a Henricia, is typically somewhat easier to keep, as is the 6 armed burgandy Linckia (Echinaster luzonicus). Nonetheless, all belong in large, mature tanks after a long acclimation, and preferably without other competition from stars. They have similar dietary needs to a blue. The purple Linckia, most often Tamaria stria, is sometimes accused of being predatory, but I am not convinced of this.
BTW, not all brittlestars and serpentstars are known predators. There is no biological difference between brittle/serpentstars. The green brittle/serpent Ophiarachna is a known predator in the wild, and there are reports of other species showing predatory behavior in captivity....but in no way can one make the generalization that they are all predatory.
In short, these is a huge stress placed on Linckia sp stars from this hobby, and the souvenir trade (go into any shell shop, in any beach resort, and look at the ugly dyed versions). Please only keep them if you truly stand a chance of providing a long term home. Please accept that we KNOW it is rare to keep them in tanks smaller than 55 g. Chances increase over 100g with loads of LR.
Success over a year must be considered the standard for them; anything less is too soon to know, though growth is a good sign.
Healthy true Linckia (blues) should have very stout cylindrical arms. If they seem to be flat, or with a groove down them on the back, that could indicate a problem, as does white or mucousy spots or 'guts' coming out the mouth.
Linckia may also carry a parastic snail on them, usually along the grooves on the bottom of the animal, so look for that in any specimen.
Last edited:
frosstman
Member
I just bought a red one two days ago for $40 Cdn. I assume he is an orange. I wish I had have resisted but my wife loved him. He has crawled up the glass to the top. Should I put him on the live rock? I have seen a stringy substance coming from him and I figure he may not survive. I wish I'd have seen this thread earlier.
ophiuroid
Premium Member
No, they will find what they need, and it is best not to handle them if it is not necessary. The handling won't kill them, but pulling them off and moving them around is a potential stress. They will commonly hang out on the glass, often near the surface. No worries with that but the stringy stuff is a concern. Any chance for a photo?
ophiuroid
Premium Member
Blue variation of multiflora? I would like to find that. Is is mottled like the other?
I was lucky enough to have acquired a 2nd star as a result of my L. multiflora casting off a comet some two years ago. The resultant offspring are rather slow growers though.
Mom
Offspring in April
Offspring in Oct
I wish I could find the pics I took of the offsping when it was just a "stump". Alas, I think they are on an old hard drive and will need to be dug up someday. He was always tuff to get a pic of as he would disappear for months on end. Plenty of times I didnt think he was around anymore just because so much time had passed since the last sighting.
Ophiuroid - Any idea what those 3 pin hole openings are on the central cavity of the offspring? Never really noticed them until I took that pic. Here is a closer shot of what I am talking about.
I was lucky enough to have acquired a 2nd star as a result of my L. multiflora casting off a comet some two years ago. The resultant offspring are rather slow growers though.
Mom
Offspring in April
Offspring in Oct
I wish I could find the pics I took of the offsping when it was just a "stump". Alas, I think they are on an old hard drive and will need to be dug up someday. He was always tuff to get a pic of as he would disappear for months on end. Plenty of times I didnt think he was around anymore just because so much time had passed since the last sighting.
Ophiuroid - Any idea what those 3 pin hole openings are on the central cavity of the offspring? Never really noticed them until I took that pic. Here is a closer shot of what I am talking about.
Ophiura,
Once again you save the day with your vast love and knowledge of these great animals. I have a side question for you. Will an urchin compete for food with a linkia multiflora, specifically a blue tuxedo urchin? I know that the urchin's primary diet is coralien algae, but I believe they may also eat some of the sponges and film that is believed to be the diet of L.Multiflora.
BTW, this is a 29 gallon tank with roughly 50 lbs of live rock so that may sway your opinion.
Mako,
the LFS hear in Lansing has both the red and the blue linkia multiflora. Basically the blue looks just like the red except blue. Yes mottled. Assuming of course they are what the store claims. Any way to be sure? They have the right color and size with the blue tips.?
Once again you save the day with your vast love and knowledge of these great animals. I have a side question for you. Will an urchin compete for food with a linkia multiflora, specifically a blue tuxedo urchin? I know that the urchin's primary diet is coralien algae, but I believe they may also eat some of the sponges and film that is believed to be the diet of L.Multiflora.
BTW, this is a 29 gallon tank with roughly 50 lbs of live rock so that may sway your opinion.
Mako,
the LFS hear in Lansing has both the red and the blue linkia multiflora. Basically the blue looks just like the red except blue. Yes mottled. Assuming of course they are what the store claims. Any way to be sure? They have the right color and size with the blue tips.?
ophiuroid
Premium Member
Yes...someone on the board has one but darned if I can remember the names. You can still make out the reddish mottling but the overall ground color is blue. Lovely beast.
Rook,
Well, ya takes your chances. But it is a risk that might be worth taking assuming that everything is going well and that you have, for example, rapid coralline growth. But as there are people who have had this species reproduce in 29g packed reef tanks, give it a go, IMO. Just don't hold me responsible
there is a risk.
Mako,
Nice pics! I will send them off to a seastar guy for some input though. I'm not the best with seastar morphology; give me a brittlestar any day!!
Rook,
Well, ya takes your chances. But it is a risk that might be worth taking assuming that everything is going well and that you have, for example, rapid coralline growth. But as there are people who have had this species reproduce in 29g packed reef tanks, give it a go, IMO. Just don't hold me responsible
there is a risk.Mako,
Nice pics! I will send them off to a seastar guy for some input though. I'm not the best with seastar morphology; give me a brittlestar any day!!
I have been researching and preparing for a l.multiflora for some time now. I understand the risk and needs to give the star a fighting chance, I think.
My only real concern, setting aside the traditional concerns for any seastar, is whether the urchin will compete for food with the seastar. I know it will munch down the coralline, but I have plenty. Every inch of my rock/tank is covered and I could use to be rid of some.
I am just not sure it the urchin, while eating coralline, will also eat other things that are a good for source for the seastar. Although this tank is well aged (3 1/2+) years, I do not have massive reproduction of sponges and other film algae. My tank is quite stable with good water quality and I really do not see much in the way of algae growth, beyond coralline and some film algae on the glass that everyone gets.
Either way I plan to attempt the star, just not sure about the urchin yet. I am still researching thier needs and food requirements.
My only real concern, setting aside the traditional concerns for any seastar, is whether the urchin will compete for food with the seastar. I know it will munch down the coralline, but I have plenty. Every inch of my rock/tank is covered and I could use to be rid of some.
I am just not sure it the urchin, while eating coralline, will also eat other things that are a good for source for the seastar. Although this tank is well aged (3 1/2+) years, I do not have massive reproduction of sponges and other film algae. My tank is quite stable with good water quality and I really do not see much in the way of algae growth, beyond coralline and some film algae on the glass that everyone gets.
Either way I plan to attempt the star, just not sure about the urchin yet. I am still researching thier needs and food requirements.
Rook - I don't think the urchins will be a problem with the linckia. Only reason I say that is that I have 8 (yes I said 8) Mespilia globulus, aka Tuxedo, urchins in a 135 with these two starfish. Been close to a year with no problems.
The herd of urchins is in an effort to get a handle on some red turf. Only thing I have found to date that will eat this stuff I am dealing with.
The herd of urchins is in an effort to get a handle on some red turf. Only thing I have found to date that will eat this stuff I am dealing with.
Hehe, yeah with that little herd chewing they get a good amount of coralline. But, its not as bad as you think. There is still a lot in there. I believe my lights do more to discourage it's growth than the urchins.
Tux's are actually pretty good at not knocking things over. Oh they do on occasion, but my turbo's usually create most of the carnage.
Tux's are actually pretty good at not knocking things over. Oh they do on occasion, but my turbo's usually create most of the carnage.
greenfroggiespawn
New member
Any pics of the starfish?
Will putting a piece of shrimp near it be okay? I know its not spot feeding but what if it fed itself?
Will putting a piece of shrimp near it be okay? I know its not spot feeding but what if it fed itself?
