Live Rock LR Support Structure DIY

ronmail65

New member
I'm posting this thread regarding an LR support structure that I built inside my 90 gallon. I've found sketchy info on it in various threads, so hopefully this thread can add a more comprehensive approach that others can follow without too much additional research.

BACKGROUND:
I built the structure to support the 100 lbs of LR in my 90 gallon to guard against rock slides and to increase circulation. Although only a monthly old, I'm seeing huge benefits already:

- It created a much bigger rock wall -- covering most of the view to the back of the tank
- It created more spaces, caves, and maintained lots of open swimming area
- I have excellent circulation and water movement through, around, and behind the rocks
- Much less risk of falling rock, which was a problem with my natural stacking of rocks before
- Overall -- it looks much better that the natural stack / structure I had before

I wasn't concerned about getting rock of the DSB, but that kind of happened anyway. The structure is about 30 inches long and 18 inches tall. I don't have complete coverage of the pipe yet, but I've got 90%. Once the corraline algae grows over it, it won't be as obvious. See my photo gallery.

HERE'S WHAT I DID:
SUPPLIES: 12' of 1/2" PVC pipe, various 'T' and 'L' 1/2" PVC fittings, 4 or more 2" PVC coupling fittings, PVC primer and cement, a bag of 6 inch plastic ties, a masonry drill bit that will make holes big enought to pass the ties through, and a regular 3/8" drill bit. All this stuff will probably cost you $25 at Home Depot. You will need more or less pipe based on the size of your tank and design of your structure.

DESIGN THE STRUCTURE: Mine has a bottom and mid-level shelf with a tall back. And vertical supports. See my gallery. I used the larger PVC couplings to set in the DSB and rest the structure on it for increased stability. Don't make it so big that you can't fit it into the tank -- beware the top frame of the tank!! Consider designing multiple, smaller structures.

BUILD IT: Measure, cut (almost any saw will do with PVC), and assemble to your specs. I recommend you assemble once without glue just to make sure everything is fitting together as planned. After gluing I let mine sit overnight just to be sure the cement had cured properly. Drill a bunch of holes in it so that it will sink and so that you have plenty of places for the ties -- the holes will better for securing the rock rather than just looping the ties around the pipe.

INSTALL IT: Set the completed structure(s) in the tank on top of the large PVC couplings that are stabilized by the DSB. Start attaching LR -- try to find natural holes in the LR or drill holes with the masonry drill bit. Arrange and set the rock trying to conceal as much of the structure as possible. Attach with the plastic ties -- pull tight and trim excess. Some LR may sit firmly on top of the shelves without ties.

CIRCULATION: Consider putting a powerhead behind the structure or inside of it to maximize circulation. You could also install a power head that pumps directly into the pipe. This will circulate water through the pipes and out the various holds to increase water circulation further.

My project is only 1 month old, so I can't attest to it's long-term viability. But I'm obviously very pleased with it.
 
FWIW, I did a similar design in a small propagation tank with 1/2" white drop-ceiling eggcrate screen, and large black uv-resistant wire-cable ties (last much longer under MH than the white ties). It probably won't hold as much weight as yours, but was designed to hold coral frags. Took a lot more time than pvc, but a sheet of eggcrate 2'x4', and a bag of cable ties can be had for about 10$. FWIW happy shelving! lol
 
UPDATE

UPDATE

As an update to my original posting on this thread...

Now that I've had this structure for a couple of months, there is one thing that I would change about it. Rather than building one large structure, I would have made 2 or 3 smaller ones. The issue I'm having is that with a single large structure, it is immobile. So, when I'm trying to net a fish or work inside the tank, there's no getting around this big structure. I don't regret it, but if I had it to do over again, I would do 2 or 3 smaller ones, rather than 1 large one.

Ron
 
I have been interested in doing something like this as well. The gallery photos are very small (due to web limitations I know) but I would be interested in seeing larger versions of them, especially before you stacked the rock. Keep us updated on how it works long term.
 
Sorry, but I did not take 'before' photos. I will try to draw a picture and post it for you.

Long-term, my only concern is that the plastic ties may loosen over time and need to be replaced. So far, no problems.

Ron
 
Drawing of Structure

Drawing of Structure

Attached is a drawing of structure -- it's the closest I've got to a 'before' photo.

Ron
 

Attachments

Nice post. I've read before about using a PVC frame and plastic ties, but never saw as much detailed information about constructing such a system. I will be aquascaping my new tank in a couple weeks and will definitely keep these tips in mind. I have a couple other ideas I would like to add:

1) If you don't already have one, get a Dremel. I never had one before I bought a fish tank, now I use it all the time. They are especially great for plumbing jobs - they cut through PVC like butter.

2) I like the idea of multiple smaller structures. Specifically, I'm thinking smaller PVC frames to make ledges, arches, and caves would do the trick, then use them as supports for the rest of the structure.

3) What about building in a spray bar along the back to handle circulation?

4) Do you think it would be sufficient to dry fit the PVC? When I built a Stockman mod for my overflow, it was very a very tight fit without using cement. I'm thinking it would be easier to do on-the-spot adjustments if the PVC wasn't glued.
 
Thanks for the add'l info. Regarding your questions...

3) A spray bar is a good idea. That just means drilling small holes in 1 side of the pipe (rather than drilling all the way through) and installing a power head / pump at one end of the pipe to push the water through.

4) I would be nervous about simply dry fitting the PVC. Sure, it feels solid, but when you put in a container filled with the pressure of 90 gallons of water and then stack or lean 100+ lbs of rock on it... it may not hold over the long haul. It would make me nervous.
 
Back
Top