Long maturity

[rickztahone]

I am possibly in the process of setting up a 22g long tank w/ a 20g sump. I wouldn't have anything established to move in to the tank, so I'd be starting from scratch.

When people say a year to mature the tank, does this mean no fauna? If so, how does a tank like this cycle to get it ready for a nem? I am all for getting a tank ready to accept a nem in optimal conditions, but in FW tanks (which I have plenty of exprience with), if the tank is vacant, the only way to keep the cycle going is to dose pure ammonia to keep the beneficial bacteria going. How does relate to SW tank, and in particular, one that I plan to strictly only have RBTA's?

 

[shifty51008]

The biggest thing most people say about a year or so is that give the tank time to become stable and the care keeper of the tank time to understand their tank and knows what to do if a problem arises. When you add new rock you want it to be completly cycled and able to process ammonia and nitrites and nitrates, not wanting to rely on water changes to fix the issue. Anemones can be very picky about their water conditions as that is what they mainly are so without a stable enviroment they dont do well.

 

[Dkuhlmann]

In addition to what Shifty said, to keep your bacteria going in a SW tank you would "ghost" feed the tank as if you had fish in it. Depending on the size of the tank you would guess how many fish you would be feeding if you had fish. You can use flakes or pellets, I would prefer to use pellets as they are cheap and they sink to the bottom, with flakes most will go over the overflow and into the sump. Assuming you'll have a sump. Having the sump allows you more water volume and more place to put more rock for more biological filtration so it's a huge benefit in creating a cleaner water condition for your anemones. I would also recommend having a skimmer to further clean the water, you'll be surprised at the gunk that comes out of your system.

 

[rickztahone]

The biggest thing most people say about a year or so is that give the tank time to become stable and the care keeper of the tank time to understand their tank and knows what to do if a problem arises. When you add new rock you want it to be completly cycled and able to process ammonia and nitrites and nitrates, not wanting to rely on water changes to fix the issue. Anemones can be very picky about their water conditions as that is what they mainly are so without a stable enviroment they dont do well.

In addition to what Shifty said, to keep your bacteria going in a SW tank you would "ghost" feed the tank as if you had fish in it. Depending on the size of the tank you would guess how many fish you would be feeding if you had fish. You can use flakes or pellets, I would prefer to use pellets as they are cheap and they sink to the bottom, with flakes most will go over the overflow and into the sump. Assuming you'll have a sump. Having the sump allows you more water volume and more place to put more rock for more biological filtration so it's a huge benefit in creating a cleaner water condition for your anemones. I would also recommend having a skimmer to further clean the water, you'll be surprised at the gunk that comes out of your system.

Thank you very much for that information. The term "ghost feeding" was the information I was seeking to keep the tank up and running without anything in it. I practice long QT procedures as well as scratch cycles in FW tanks so the idea of a bare tank for prepping isn't a frustrating one for me.

The tank I plan to get is this one:
http://www.marinedepot.com/Mr._Aqua...ums_Nano_Cube-Mr._Aqua-AZ11665-FIAQNC-vi.html

Specs:
"¢Dimension: 36" x 12" x 12"
"¢22 Gallons

I plan to make my stand extend towards the back so that it gives me more room in the stand to fit a somewhat larger sump. At the moment I cannot recall what a standard 20 or 29g tank dims are, but I assume one may fit, or I can make it fit since I have always built all my stands. I plan on running a Bean Animal overflow as well. I do not want a lot of rock and I only plan on having RBTA as I mentioned and possibly a pair of clowns.

My main concern was simply if the tank was big enough for RBTA's and from my research it seems like it can be done. The extra volume in the sump should help, but I am not sure if a 20g would be so limiting that I wouldn't be able to fit rocks as well as a skimmer in the stand. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

Lastly, as far as lighting is concerned, I plan on using 2x Kessil 160w. Seeing as the tank is only 12" in height, I'd imagine this would be more than enough? Should I be concerned that this would be too much?

Any further advice is greatly appreciated and please know that I have been doing research and have read the stickies. One of the most helpful ones was one I printed named "Clownfish & Anemones FAQ". Very helpful.

 

[Dkuhlmann]

Well you need to rethink the not much rock thing as BTA's live on rocks, not in the sand. Also the rock is the biggest part of your filtration and one that can't be matched mechanically.

 

[rickztahone]

Well you need to rethink the not much rock thing as BTA's live on rocks, not in the sand. Also the rock is the biggest part of your filtration and one that can't be matched mechanically.

When I saw not a lot of rock, I mean excessive amounts. I would like my tank to look like this other RC member:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24119187&postcount=34

I'd like for the rock work to not pile so high as well as not too close to the side walls. I'd like to somewhat replicate the linked thread, but on a smaller scale obviously.

However, thank you for pointing it out, I will of course post pictures whenever I get things up and running and ask if the rock would be enough. I can always try to accomodate more rock in the sump as I said previously, but it would be difficult considering it will be much smaller than I would like.

 

[rickztahone]

So when I am "ghost feeding" I am assuming I do not put any coral or fish in there correct? If so, at what stage would I know the tank is ready? Is it more of a time thing or do certain parameters need to fall in line to a certain number to get things going?

 

[shifty51008]

When you ghost feed and you are not getting any ammonia readings anymore then you know the tank is ready as it can process the ammonia fast enough.

You can add fish or corals once your tank is cycled but if you only add coral i would still ghost feed to keep the bacteria levels up, when you have fish their poo will be creating the ammonia that ghost feeding does so you just need to feed the fish as usual.

 

[rickztahone]

When you ghost feed and you are not getting any ammonia readings anymore then you know the tank is ready as it can process the ammonia fast enough.

You can add fish or corals once your tank is cycled but if you only add coral i would still ghost feed to keep the bacteria levels up, when you have fish their poo will be creating the ammonia that ghost feeding does so you just need to feed the fish as usual.

But the introduction of nems doesn't happen tI'll way after that correct? I want to know what dictates when the tank is ready for a nem. Again, this tank will only house rbta and clowns, so introducing other corals and other fish to keep a cycle will be difficult, or rather, something I'd like to avoid since I'd like the tank to remain as pest free as possible

 

[Dkuhlmann]

But the introduction of nems doesn't happen tI'll way after that correct? I want to know what dictates when the tank is ready for a nem. Again, this tank will only house rbta and clowns, so introducing other corals and other fish to keep a cycle will be difficult, or rather, something I'd like to avoid since I'd like the tank to remain as pest free as possible

"When you ghost feed and you are not getting any ammonia readings anymore then you know the tank is ready"

He gave you the answer. You're over thinking this whole process.

 

[rickztahone]

Would 3x AI prime (AI Prime) be overkill for a 36" long tank that is 12" wide and 12" tall that I plan to keep RBTA or frogspawn in?

 

[sde1500]

I'd say if you have extensive experience keeping fish then you could probably get away with adding a nem sooner. I think the 6 months to a year rule is more a suggestion for newer hobbiests who still need to learn how to care for the tank, test params, dose additives etc. Sure a newer tank will be slightly less stable, but nothing that shouldn't be over come by experience. I've seen plenty of posts on here where experienced posters put nems in new tanks.

 

[rickztahone]

I'd say if you have extensive experience keeping fish then you could probably get away with adding a nem sooner. I think the 6 months to a year rule is more a suggestion for newer hobbiests who still need to learn how to care for the tank, test params, dose additives etc. Sure a newer tank will be slightly less stable, but nothing that shouldn't be over come by experience. I've seen plenty of posts on here where experienced posters put nems in new tanks.

That is refreshing to know. Thank you