Looking for precise air valve for sensitive skimmer

BTW, while the Dwyer makes a good valve, it doesn't really serve as a good meter for an EV-180 as the inconsistency of the EV-180's intake makes the bead constantly jump up and down. So I can't really tell what my reading is very acuurately. It bounces between 10 and 20 l/m. I do have very good control over the maximum amount of air the skimmer can breath at any time, however since the valve is a circular knob I have no reference of where the sweetspot is if I ever deviate from it and need to go back to it. At least with the crappy ball valve that came with the skimmer I knew that the sweetspot was around 7:00 o'clock since the valve handle would be a little bit to the left of straight down. The knob on the Dwyer normally wouldn't be an issue as you would just look at the meter to know the flow, but since the flow is so volatile, the meter is not useful.

So I like the precision of the air adjustment, but I have much less "knowledge" of where the valve is than compared to the valve that came with the skimmer.

Make sense?

Josh
 
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Josh thanks for sending me the link. It looks like you are getting good results but I have a question for you. In all the times that we have discussed your issues, has the water level always been that high? The water level on the EV skimmer should be at the top of the black box, and no more than 1" above it. Any higher, the water is choking off the air inlet. That may be for the inconsistant reading s on the meter. I'm not saying that you will get better results by running it as recommended, but if you are happy with the production, leave it as is.
 
Josh If you make the handle on the stock valve it might make it easier to get the precise control you want with it. I have some low temp plastic that makes this real easy. On the Dwyer just put a dab of white paint on the knob so you have a referance point.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7795472#post7795472 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gcarroll
Josh thanks for sending me the link. It looks like you are getting good results but I have a question for you. In all the times that we have discussed your issues, has the water level always been that high? The water level on the EV skimmer should be at the top of the black box, and no more than 1" above it. Any higher, the water is choking off the air inlet. That may be for the inconsistant reading s on the meter. I'm not saying that you will get better results by running it as recommended, but if you are happy with the production, leave it as is.

I know the water shouldn't be in the neck and only up to the platform in the top of the black box, but I can't get it down. Remember with the Eheim 1262 I was running a ball valve in between the pump and skimmer and I could make the water level behave, but you instructed me to remove it. The only way I can keep water from shooting out the top is by keeping the air intake very limited.

I'm open to suggestions.

With the Mag 7 the water level behaves, but no bubbles rise the neck.

THanks
JOsh
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7795898#post7795898 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by laverda
Josh If you make the handle on the stock valve it might make it easier to get the precise control you want with it. I have some low temp plastic that makes this real easy. On the Dwyer just put a dab of white paint on the knob so you have a referance point.

Just so I understand, are you saying I can make a new valve handle for the Dwyer that is similar to the old air valve handle?

Thanks
Josh
 
You could do that. I was just saying put a dab of paint on the knob.
I ment to say >If you make the handle on the stock valve "longer" it might make it easier to get the precise control you want with it. I have some low temp plastic that makes this real easy. <
You could use the same plastic to make a new handle for your Dwyer. What city are you in?
 
I'm in Mission Viejo.

I think the new valve will be ok. I just need to get used to it.

I wish I could find a pump for this thing that coulod keep the water level below the neck but still produce bubbles that go up the neck.

Josh
 
Josh,

Is there any reason that you can't use your 1262 and a gate valve?

I'm thinking that will you give you more precision on the input in lieu of worrying about the air intake.

I would be very, very cautious about running the water too high in the reaction tower. If you get an influx of waste, you're going to have a nice flood on your hands.

I know if I run my EV-1000 too high, I can fill a 5 gallon bucket in 10 minutes with my MAG24, so be cautious.

I have more limited experience than you on these skimmers, but I don't think the air intake is the key to tuning the skimmer properly overall. I realize it can make some adjustments in the type of bubbles, but it's my opinion that you are still working out the "course tuning" of your skimmer, not the "fine tuning".

I think it has everything to do with back-pressure and the correct input from the pump. Those two things seem to make the AquaC skimmers tick.

Sometimes it can be frustrating to tune them, but once they are going they seem to be really nice.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7800396#post7800396 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BONDQ
Josh,

Is there any reason that you can't use your 1262 and a gate valve?


My original configuration was with a gate valve. I ran like that for months. It was fine, but I knew the skimmer was capable of more.

I wanted to play around with overdriving the skimmer, that's why I removed the valve. Now I am plumbing directly to the skimmer.

The better airvalve gives more precise control over the air intake. I love it.

Josh
 
I thought you had a ball-valve the whole time.

I'd just be very cautious with the water-level.

Have you played around with having the skimmate output into the AquaC collection container and out of it. It seems to have some effect on the back-flow pressure, at least in my set-up.

You may find that you don't need the water so high, if you're not running into the collection container. Not ideal, but at least you can tune it.
 
Dang Josh, I wish I lived closer because there has to be a problem somewhere. Many people are using the Eheim 1262 on an EV180 without the issues that you are experiencing. I just don't know why yours is so different. Either way, the results are looking good!
 
I agree... the water level is a little high on the neck. I run the 1262 as well and with the ball valve wide open the water comes up to just the base of the neck. I have to clean out the ev 3 times a week because of all the foam and gunk it pulls out. I leave about 3/4 open.
 
Everytime I read this, I keep thinking back pressure is the issue.

Josh, any thoughts on this?
 
Gcarroll,

You run a MAG36 on an EV-1000?
Damn!

You must throttle it down right?

Jason told me to put a MAG24 on mine and I seem to get good power.

Was there another reason you are using a 36?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7803863#post7803863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BONDQ
Everytime I read this, I keep thinking back pressure is the issue.

Josh, any thoughts on this?

Yeh, it seems to be the only thing that can explain the water level. Josh, is the gate valve all the way open? it could be the pvc pipe causing all the backpressure
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7803884#post7803884 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BONDQ
Gcarroll,

You run a MAG36 on an EV-1000?
Damn!

You must throttle it down right?

Jason told me to put a MAG24 on mine and I seem to get good power.

Was there another reason you are using a 36?

BONDQ,

Greg's is a custom one that jason made for him.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7803914#post7803914 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Yinger
BONDQ,

Greg's is a custom one that jason made for him.

Mine is too, but the only change is that it is 2" shorter.

What did he do to Gcarroll's? Add 6"?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7803956#post7803956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BONDQ
Mine is too, but the only change is that it is 2" shorter.

What did he do to Gcarroll's? Add 6"?

I dunno exactly, but I remember something to do with the cone. Greg will be able to answer that question better haha.
 
BONDQ, you are correct, the valve between my pump and skimmer was a ball valve. Sorry. The skimmer operates the same for me whether using the collection jug or not. Although I keep the jug connected since it catches the skimmate overflow.

I ran with the valve in the middle so I could reduce the flow, (as Steve at Aqua C recommended), until the water level was at the platform. This worked well, however skimmate production was non-stellar and air control was lacking, (at the time I didn't realize that the unused JG fitting was a gaping air hole).

I decided to try and run w/o a valve per Greg's suggestion, and I really like the skimmate I get, however the water level, as we have seen in the video, is no longer in the recommended place. The water level is all the way up the cup and about 3/4" from the collection cup. With this much output air control is more important and the new air valve helps a lot.

The skimmer is sitting in 8" of water as recommended. The pump is sitting in 12" of water and pumps directly up into the skimmer. The exit-gate valve is full open. I cannot remove the gate valve as the exit water splashes out of the sump.

Could my 1262 just be more powerful than most?

Other than the high water level I am happy with the results.

You're all welcome to come over and analyze my water level if you want :) I would be happy to lower it back down if we could do it without reducing skimmate production.

Greg, I know Norco is far, but you make the drive for the SCMAS meetings. I'm only about another 20 minutes South of that. I could reimburse you gas money and provide compensation in the form of lunch and a 6 pack of your favorite beverage.

Cheers
Josh
 
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