Lookout's new adventure

lookout888 said:
PLEASE POST if you have any problems and the error/problem you are having. Also let me know what you think
Click to expand...
Well, I suppose the biggest problem I've been having lately is this burning sensation between my ... Oh!

Oh, you meant with the webcam thingy? Yes ... well, that seems to be working just fine ...

No, really!

... er ...

Dave.M
 
dave.m said:
Well, I suppose the biggest problem I've been having lately is this burning sensation between my ... Oh!

Oh, you meant with the webcam thingy? Yes ... well, that seems to be working just fine ...

No, really!

... er ...

Dave.M
Click to expand...

You ok Dave? :beer:
 
Thank is full, starting on sump. Turned it off last night as it does not need much more water and did not want it to overflow.
 
Add a couple of ball valves to the two eductors at the substrate, otherwise the water will take the easy way out (straight ahead) and skip the detour at the other end. Locline valves are cheap, compact and black.
 
mr.wilson said:
Add a couple of ball valves to the two eductors at the substrate, otherwise the water will take the easy way out (straight ahead) and skip the detour at the other end. Locline valves are cheap, compact and black.
Click to expand...

I am not sure I understand. There are 2 outlets from my return pump. each has a 1'' eductor ( Never used them.. figured i would try them). How does the water bypass them?
 
Some pictures of the rock. Not sure if I like it yet.
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lookout888 said:
I am not sure I understand. There are 2 outlets from my return pump. each has a 1'' eductor ( Never used them.. figured i would try them). How does the water bypass them?
Click to expand...

Water travels the path of least resistance (so does money:)). You don't have a proper (balanced/symmetrical) manifold to allow each effluent port an equal opportunity for water to exit. I suspect that 75% of the water will exit out of the one on the right and 25% will exit out of the one on the left. If you were use 1/2" eductors, the flow might be balanced, but the uneven manifold still gives the effluent port on the right a shorter path.

I assumed that these were effluents for a closed loop. If they are for a sump return, make sure you use a double check valve system to assure that the water doesn't back siphon when the return pump is shut off. One "wet", (normally open) check valve (clear, true union for easy servicing) goes at/near the return pump, while the other "dry" check valve is normally closed above the water level of the tank. When the pump is operational, the wet valve is open and the dry valve is closed. When the pump shuts off for any reason, the wet check valve is closed and the dry check valve is opened (due to lack of water pressure keeping it closed).

The wet check valve is fallible (may stick or leak) while the dry valve is unlikely to fail. As the (upper) dry check valve opens, it breaks the back siphon from the tank to the sump. Simply drilling holes in the return line is not a reliable method of breaking siphon.

Eductors are great, you will like them.
 
mr.wilson said:
Water travels the path of least resistance (so does money:)). You don't have a proper (balanced/symmetrical) manifold to allow each effluent port an equal opportunity for water to exit. I suspect that 75% of the water will exit out of the one on the right and 25% will exit out of the one on the left. If you were use 1/2" eductors, the flow might be balanced, but the uneven manifold still gives the effluent port on the right a shorter path.

I assumed that these were effluents for a closed loop. If they are for a sump return, make sure you use a double check valve system to assure that the water doesn't back siphon when the return pump is shut off. One "wet", (normally open) check valve (clear, true union for easy servicing) goes at/near the return pump, while the other "dry" check valve is normally closed above the water level of the tank. When the pump is operational, the wet valve is open and the dry valve is closed. When the pump shuts off for any reason, the wet check valve is closed and the dry check valve is opened (due to lack of water pressure keeping it closed).

The wet check valve is fallible (may stick or leak) while the dry valve is unlikely to fail. As the (upper) dry check valve opens, it breaks the back siphon from the tank to the sump. Simply drilling holes in the return line is not a reliable method of breaking siphon.

Eductors are great, you will like them.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I was going to see how much of a difference it was between to 2 before i worried about it. If they are still putting out good flow I am not too worried about one being more powerful. As for the siphon, I am trying something different. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20666522&postcount=142 The last picture shows it. Basically I have a flapper check valve but backwards. So when the pump is on it pushes the flap closed and no water comes out. When the pump is turned off the suction opens the flap and lets all the air it needs back. I hardly get any backflow of water.

I may add a second flapper check valve right next to this one just for safty.. but I really dont think i will need it.. If the check valve gets stuck open.. the water will just drip back into the tank.
 
lookout888 said:
Thank you, I was going to see how much of a difference it was between to 2 before i worried about it. If they are still putting out good flow I am not too worried about one being more powerful. As for the siphon, I am trying something different. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20666522&postcount=142 The last picture shows it. Basically I have a flapper check valve but backwards. So when the pump is on it pushes the flap closed and no water comes out. When the pump is turned off the suction opens the flap and lets all the air it needs back. I hardly get any backflow of water.

I may add a second flapper check valve right next to this one just for safty.. but I really dont think i will need it.. If the check valve gets stuck open.. the water will just drip back into the tank.
Click to expand...

Your system is pretty much what I recommended, but it looks like the weight of the water may keep the flapper closed once the suction stops or if it isn't strong enough to "break the seal".

I would do a 180˚ turn with the check valve and point it upwards from the 90˚ elbow. This will put gravity on your side. You can add two 90s post check valve to direct any stray drip downward, but there shouldn't be any.

Technically, you would only need a valve on the eductor on the right to restrict flow and rediretect it to the other end.

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[/QUOTE]
 
Awesome idea Mr Wilson. I love what he did with this, completely blows my mind that a solution as seemingly simple as this went beyond me, now maybe I can have returns go lower in the tank without fear of back siphons :D
 
Sorry the computer is going to be up and down as I add my pcb to the back of the control board.. If a link does not work.. try in 5 mins.
BTW was able to get the pcb working. Needed to put a .1uF cap before the voltage regulator, and .33uF after.
 
So I had to redo the PCB as the last one had the 2 pins backwards. I think this one is the best one so far. Will start putting stuff on it tomarrow.
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lookout888 - I have been gone for a while but I see the progress is coming along very nicely. That PCB board looks great! Keep up the good work.
 
nightOwl said:
lookout888 - I have been gone for a while but I see the progress is coming along very nicely. That PCB board looks great! Keep up the good work.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Put the PCB all together today, and found 3 bad ic's to replaced them. Just got done putting the pcb on the control panel. Going to adjust all the ballest now. Then mount the control panel. Will post pictures in a bit.
 
Forgot to post some pictures last night. Will do it at lunch or after work. question. mp40 or mp60. The pump will be pointing from the back of the tank to the front. about 36 inchs of space.

Let me know your thoughts, I have never owned a vortech.
Mike
 
Update, I have been working on the control panel to get all the led's working. I think I am maxing out the amperage on the arduinos as the relays are not all working right(lights are dimming a little). I am going to run a dedicated 5v line to all the relays( The PSU has 5v out so it works perfect). I managed to get 20 of the 25 drives mapped out to the correct dimming pins(PWM pins) on the arduino's. Once I get the other 5 working, I will map out the relays. I still need to adjust all the drivers to 11v and 2amp. After this is done, I will mount the control board and start to run the wires through the wall for the lights. I also need to figure out and run the wires for the float switchs and the outlets for under the tank.

Feedback on the rock.. love it/hate it?
 
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