LUNATIC FRINGE-Duel 500g tanks, 1600g total

I really like the rock that you made. I have never thought about trying to make my own but after seeing yours I may give it a try. Do you have any more details on how you did it or maybe a link?

Yeah the rock really came out well. Though making over 1000#s saved some money...I didn't do it for that reason. As with this build I just like the DIY route and thought this was something I could pull off. If you google DIY live rock you will get a ton of threads. videos and articles. The GARF instructions are what most start with.

My thoughts: I tried every type of combo you can come with...sand, oyster shell, small lime rock, salt, perlite and of course concrete.

Ill start with the only thing I would change...the cement. Most everyone calls for Portland type 1 or 2. In Nineballs thread (one of the great modern threads)...Mr. Wilson (who is beyond a wealth of information) references a special underwater concrete that is LOW in phosphates. Portland will have high phosphates that you will have to leach out over months....

The most important thing on the mix is the water content. Whatever materials you go with if you miss on the water, you miss on the rock. Most of my rock is approximately 4.5 parts material to 1.5 cement. On rock that is 4.5 to 1...it is lighter but is more brittle for the first month. My suggestion is that the longer you can leave the rock alone to dry, the less concrete you will need to bond it. The less concrete, the lighter.

My favorite basse mix was either crushed oyster shell (you can get this at any feed store) or crushed limestone. I ended up using the limestone twoards the end because I could buy it by the yard. I used 2 parts of the above, 1 part rock salt, 1 part perlite and approx. 1.5 parts cement. I tried all kinds of combos...no rock salt, added sand...added all..... again, in the end..water content makes or breaks you. So some of the rock was 2 parts shell, 2 parts rock (or 2 parts perlite) and the concrete. I saw very little difference in the outcome but I always like the thought of the rock salt dissolving over time and leaving small voids in the rock structure....

I put everything in a wheel barrel. However, I always added the concrete last. Here in Florida with the humidity, if you put the concrete in first it would stick to the sides of the wheel barrel making it harder to mix. Mix everything BEFORE you put water in....I used a shovel and my gloved hands. Add water slowly and mix...over and over. My best suggestion is to have a bucket of water next to you. As I got down towards the end. I found that I put too much water in with the hose but could put exactly what I wanted with the bucket... Remember to add a little water each time...because it will look like you are really short on water and you only put a few ounces in and that becomes too much.

The mix you are looking for is dry oatmeal. You basically are just trying to coat the concrete with water so that is bonds everything. If the mix is too wet, not only with the rock be weaker, it will be heavier. Have some of the perlite or rock salt ready in a bucket if you add too much water to soak up the difference.

I commandeered my kids sand box for the forms. I would make all kinds of sand indentions.....like 3 areas that were 12" down for the legs...and would gently place the cement in the forms. Don't drop the cement or it will compact...place it in... Then I would put sand over the wet concrete in different areas to give the rock caves, movement, etc. and continue to build. Always make sure that at any point that you are using sand to cover the cement that at least one part of the cement is always touching somewhere.

I made mostly "show pieces". These were large pieces that could stand on their own...lots of movement, caves, etc. Smaller pieces were made with either left over mix that wasn't enough to do a large piece. OR.... a large piece that came out boring...then a hammer made it into smaller pieces. You can get a ton of inspiration by looking at aqua scape pictures here on RC...then try and duplicate them....oh and if you have kids...they make great rock because they just throw it around and it seems to always look good.

After the mix was in the forms for about 30 minutes. I would take long drill bits and poke holes all over the mix. remember that most of the structure is under the sand at this point...so you need long bits. Poke holes all over, some holes will close...some will chip something off...etc. If you wait too long to poke holes....the mix will sometimes come apart by poking holes in to it.

Every 24 hours for 3 days I would wet the mix with water. I then put a shovel under each rock and pop them out of the sand on the 4th day. If you try and take the rock too early, you risk breaking it. I would line up all the rock and water it every 24 hours for 30 days. The more you wet the rock the faster it cures and the stronger it gets. Concrete is said to fully cure after 30days but that is not entirely true... Concrete always continues to get harder over its life....but 30 days is what you need to wait.

I then placed the rock into Tampa Bay (something that not every will be able to do so obviously skip this step). Everything in the rock mix is basically found in nature and in the ocean, so I was not worried about polluting the water. I found over time that in one area I put the rock it got very little sea growth and yet 10 feet away I got a ton of oysters, barnacle's, etc.... Mother nature took care of curing and phosphate control for 6 -10 months. I have been planning this build for 2 years so the rock kept me busy while I was planning. The last stage was to pull the rock, bleach it for 3 days...let it air dry for a week...and the put it into Rubbermaid bins to cycle it..... they have been in there for about 6 months.

I will try and dig up some pics later...hope this helps. I am sure I left out some things but there is a tone of info out there including a video on utube where a guy is building some rock in a kiddie pool and his wife comes out to yell at him for something he did....lol
 
Thanks for the details. I always thought it would be to much trouble to make but after thinking about some of the shapes that i could create I think im going to give it a try.
 
LONNNNNGGGGG last few days non tank related....doesn't include the 50 gallons of water I put on the floor...that soaked down through my ceiling on the first floor.... story later.

Plumbing is mostly done...couple of problems....details later....
Rock work is done.....pics later.

However, Ill throw this out there.... I temporarily put my return pumps...Reflo Barracuda's on the closed loop to play with flows while I was finishing out the tank room and waiting on the CL pumps.... Learned a TON about flow...

SO:

Today I hooked up another CL pump....red dragon clone which puts out about 2700 gph or half what the Barracuda did. Big big difference....sure I expected less flow but not this much less. I would leave the cudas on for flow but they are too loud for my taste. Anyone know of something with flow around 4000gph with less noise?
 
Hummmm.. I am thinking of doing CL on a 120g troth sump tank. I would like to know too.

Sorry about the water. One day I ran my RODI with the waste water line pulled out of the drain for 3-5 hours. Ooops so much for doing maintenance. The floor was really clean afterward.
 
RLSS Controllable Waveline DC-12000 Pump is said to release soon. It is around 3200gph. I would think it will be quiet since it is DC vs AC.
 
X2 but up size to the bigger one then you can adjust down to the flow you want.

reef specialty has a 20000l pump listed on their website with coming soon next to that along with the other waveline pumps.... However, I went to the RLSS website and there is no mention of a bigger pump. My current pumps are 10000l so I dont think a 20% increae will do on the dc12....but I would buy a 20000ll dc pump right now if available...anyone heard anything on it?
 
No real experience, just saw them at a home show, Seemed very quiet there, claims to be 7-10 decibels is the pentair intelliflo vf 3050
Is has controllable speed. Runs 10,440 GPH at full tilt...

Maybe one pump for both tanks :bigeyes:
 
No real experience, just saw them at a home show, Seemed very quiet there, claims to be 7-10 decibels is the pentair intelliflo vf 3050
Is has controllable speed. Runs 10,440 GPH at full tilt...

Maybe one pump for both tanks :bigeyes:

i emailed the company and they confirmed that there WILL be a 20,000L pump. However they have set no time table on the release dates.
 
I just got my DC10000 last night, turned it on for a brief moment and let me tell you, the slow start on it is brilliant. At first there is no water and then ( i had 1 1/4" clear tubing on it to see the water) you slowly see the tube filling. I only managed to get to two of 6 settings but it was dead silent. then some water started leaking so i had to shut her off. I need to find some 1 1/4" ultra flex before trying again...
 
Wife's mom passed on Mothers Day....tough to bring that in for a soft landing....Just another reminder in life that life is precious and you better live it to it's fullest why you can.... Which is why I am back on the tank....
 
Plumbing thoughts:

I used 2 glues and a primer.

Primer: I only used clear primer for a couple of things....Old fittings, when I needed a fitting to go as far in as possible...like for limited spacing, clean up extra glue...or to remove the red writing on the pipes. Primer is NOT needed on new clean fittings...but it certainly never hurts it.

Brown can, Normal cement: Used for most fittings, goes on clear, dries fast.

Grey can,. Heavy duty: I used this in a couple of places: When I need longer drying time because maybe I need to make other connects and still need to move the part in 20 seconds; when I glue sch 80 to sch 40, or when the connections are older or dirty....

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I got a great deal on these sch 80 gate valves on amazon...cheaper than even normal valves. Only downfall on gate valves is that if you have to close them quickly for a leak or something...good luck.

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I got these valves at lowes... I liked the single union and couldn't find it elsewhere...BIG MISTAKE. all 4 leaked when closed...cause me some issues that I am going to discuss my friends at Lowes....they should NOT have these on the shelves...I read some reviews on them after I had problems...Lowes should pull theses. On another note.... I try and use 2 45's when possible...drops restriction a little bit....I also whenever possible use fittings that glue directly together without another piece of pipe...This adds one less glued fitting...I will try and get a pic later of what I am talking about

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2 things here... one, always use straps to hold your pvc pipes. It is very cheap and quick. It will also save you problems later as the weight of the pipes over time may shift giving you some bulk head problems.

two.... I made a mistake. IMHO you should also connect bulkheads to other pipe using flex tubing, even on short runs. I did it most every where and you only need one piece so on the grey gate valve...I should have had the top pipe flex coming from the bulk into the gate....WHY....because later when you are gluing other fixtures on the same pipe or in my case hooking the pump up later.....YOU WILL SAVE YOUSELF FROM MOVING THE BULKHEAD BECAUSE THE FLEX HAS GIVE... Mad at myself on this....I have water in the tank and had all the pluming done...later I came back to hook up the pumps....when hooking up the pumps I of course had to push and pull a bit on the pipes...well the one pipe I DIDNT use flex on, shifted and now I have a leak....

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Before I get back on the tank...anyone have thoughts on hooking up an external skimmer...(going to try and make a decision on both later today) while using bean animal and 2 incoming pipes? I don't want to go with an internal for both space and heat problems...and don't want an external pump to feed as I would rather use gravity.
 
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