Lunchbucket's 48"x48"x20" Reef
- Thread starter Lunchbucket
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Lunchbucket
Premium Member
JCTewks - Thanks for the great advice and your experience! Gotta love RC for many peoples help!! You can just make me some doors and send them 
erics3000 - I'll go slow I promise but I would like to get it up and running
I have pics of fuge and sump quite a few pages back. I will use the LR have have now that is cooking maybe 50lbs?? and will get some dry base rock to finish off the aquascaping. No LR from my 58gal will touch the 200gal. I have hydriods that drive me nuts and have some bryopsis
Goodwin - I don't have that wall up yet. I have only got that front wall about 75% done. Tomorrow I have off so hope to get the right wall (opposite the block wall) and the back wall. The block wall will not get framed up. Want block only on that side to save some space and let the wall cool the tank too
FFrankie - Thanks buddy
Chuck the tank will be viewed from 2 sides
Lunchbucket
erics3000 - I'll go slow I promise but I would like to get it up and running
I have pics of fuge and sump quite a few pages back. I will use the LR have have now that is cooking maybe 50lbs?? and will get some dry base rock to finish off the aquascaping. No LR from my 58gal will touch the 200gal. I have hydriods that drive me nuts and have some bryopsis Goodwin - I don't have that wall up yet. I have only got that front wall about 75% done. Tomorrow I have off so hope to get the right wall (opposite the block wall) and the back wall. The block wall will not get framed up. Want block only on that side to save some space and let the wall cool the tank too
FFrankie - Thanks buddy
Chuck the tank will be viewed from 2 sides
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Well today is my forced by off by my bosses...I never take work off. And I wanted to be out of bed by 8am. For some reason my cell phone shut off in the night...good thing my wife is home sick as she woke me up at 9:15 :eek1: Oh well making some coffee and I'm off to go frame up downstairs. I'll have pics/progress later
Lunchbucket
Oh well making some coffee and I'm off to go frame up downstairs. I'll have pics/progress laterLunchbucket
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Got one more wall built. Need to go lift quick and I'll come home and get the back wall done and put the door in hopefully!
The room is 6'4" x 8' outside dimensions. So it is about 6' x 7'8" or so. I should have enough room behind the tank for the plumbing and a little room to scoot by. On the side (by the block wall) I'll have a full 24" to easily get by. I think I can still make a light rack and have it pull back. Won't move them 100% out of the way but will get me quite a bit of room.
Side view of the tank
View along the wall
Space behind
Will be back w/ more pics later
Lunchbucket
The room is 6'4" x 8' outside dimensions. So it is about 6' x 7'8" or so. I should have enough room behind the tank for the plumbing and a little room to scoot by. On the side (by the block wall) I'll have a full 24" to easily get by. I think I can still make a light rack and have it pull back. Won't move them 100% out of the way but will get me quite a bit of room.
Side view of the tank
View along the wall
Space behind
Will be back w/ more pics later
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Melev - but does that include your tank in the room?
Goodwin - Returns I have not finalized where they are going. They will hang over the top most likely in back. I don't want anything sticking out of the right side (concrete side) as I want to be able to get a small stepstool up there for working in the tank and not worry about busting anything off. Only in back will any plumbing (CL) stick out
Lunchbucket
Goodwin - Returns I have not finalized where they are going. They will hang over the top most likely in back. I don't want anything sticking out of the right side (concrete side) as I want to be able to get a small stepstool up there for working in the tank and not worry about busting anything off. Only in back will any plumbing (CL) stick out
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Al done w/ the framing for now. Only need to make the front headers where the doors will rest against at the bottom.
Back of my tank room is a common wall w/ the storage room
Tank room door open. It swings in but will easily miss the plumbing from the tank
Door open but looking left where all the plumbing will be.
Behind the tank where the plumbing will be I have 40". Should be PLENTY of room for the plumbing and some room to work or adjust stuff
Right side access way is 24" wide. Wide enough for me to get a step stool in and easily access the side of the tank
Since I have 40" of room behind the tank I can have my lights on a roll away system so they can be slid back and out of the way!!! I most likely will use 36" VHO's so I'll have room.
Lunchbucket
Back of my tank room is a common wall w/ the storage room
Tank room door open. It swings in but will easily miss the plumbing from the tank
Door open but looking left where all the plumbing will be.
Behind the tank where the plumbing will be I have 40". Should be PLENTY of room for the plumbing and some room to work or adjust stuff
Right side access way is 24" wide. Wide enough for me to get a step stool in and easily access the side of the tank
Since I have 40" of room behind the tank I can have my lights on a roll away system so they can be slid back and out of the way!!! I most likely will use 36" VHO's so I'll have room.
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
One question I do have is we talked about plywood under the tank eariler and I bought a piece of that Advantech stuff but problem is that is is 47.5" wide. Plus there is a tongue on one side and a grove in the other side so it isn't wide enough for my 48" tank. As I talked about I have some 5ply plywood would it be a big deal if I did two layers of it under the tank? The tank is 48" wide and I have 5 braces underneath. Would this be enough strength??? I'd think so but what do I know.
The tank can still come out of the room since I don't have the headers in there but once they are in if I don't make them high enough I won't be able to slide the tank out...but why would I ever want to after it is all finished
Lunchbucket
The tank can still come out of the room since I don't have the headers in there but once they are in if I don't make them high enough I won't be able to slide the tank out...but why would I ever want to after it is all finished
Lunchbucket
I think your golden bo! LOL! (my new southern friend talks like that. Cracks me up )
melev
Well-known member
I would add a little wood where you are lacking. If you are willing to cut the sheet in half, and insert a 1/2" x 3/4" x 48" strip down the middle, then make sure the cut goes across the braces and not with the braces. Then you can separate the two halves, insert the center strip and sandwich it with the two main boards.
I can't wait to see you get this fired up, and then read about all of your hydroid complaints again.
I can't wait to see you get this fired up, and then read about all of your hydroid complaints again.
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
jnarowe - Don't gain any weight? You mean so I don't fit??
Only bad part is that if I flip the door to go out then I need to have all the junk cleared completely away in front of the door. With that being a storage room I'm not sure if that will happen. There is really a LOT of room to get the door open and walk in. Pics might not show that.
I do plan on insulating the walls. Not sure what would be the best plan. Regular insulation for 2x4? Another question, I thought I would prime every stud in that room w/ Zinzer primer/sealer. Since I'm sheetrocking anyone thing I would have to do this? Most of the studs in the whole living room and tank room are recycled from the tear out. I bet I save about 100bucks doing that. Any reason for the eek eyes?
FFrankie - Yeah I want to make sure I do it right the first time so I appreciate the comment/suggestion. Still not sure if I'll use 1 or 2 sheets. Would like to get away w/ one
melev - Not sure if I really want to do 2 separate boards. Would rather do 2 sheets of ply before I did that I can't wait to get it fired up too. I HOPE TO GOD that I don't get any hydroids in this tank I need to trim all my corals carefully when putting them in and scrub my clams. No rock from my current 58gal is going in the 200 so I HOPE that I don't infect the new one Otherwise might have to try a ton of butterflys to see if they will eat them.
Hop - :lol: Mid-March...probably not Still have to wire and stuff...which I hope is done next week. Then sheet rock, tape, sand, paint, paint the floor, make the light rack, make the sliding light rack, plumb the closed loop and drains, make the doors for the front access. Heck I have a lot to do I haven't even bought dry base rock for the tank yet I need to do that in the next couple weeks..that is my next priority. Then drill it and put rod so they stand up all cool
Lunchbucket
Only bad part is that if I flip the door to go out then I need to have all the junk cleared completely away in front of the door. With that being a storage room I'm not sure if that will happen. There is really a LOT of room to get the door open and walk in. Pics might not show that.
I do plan on insulating the walls. Not sure what would be the best plan. Regular insulation for 2x4? Another question, I thought I would prime every stud in that room w/ Zinzer primer/sealer. Since I'm sheetrocking anyone thing I would have to do this? Most of the studs in the whole living room and tank room are recycled from the tear out. I bet I save about 100bucks doing that. Any reason for the eek eyes?
FFrankie - Yeah I want to make sure I do it right the first time so I appreciate the comment/suggestion. Still not sure if I'll use 1 or 2 sheets. Would like to get away w/ one
melev - Not sure if I really want to do 2 separate boards. Would rather do 2 sheets of ply before I did that I can't wait to get it fired up too. I HOPE TO GOD that I don't get any hydroids in this tank
I need to trim all my corals carefully when putting them in and scrub my clams. No rock from my current 58gal is going in the 200 so I HOPE that I don't infect the new one Otherwise might have to try a ton of butterflys to see if they will eat them.Hop - :lol: Mid-March...probably not
Still have to wire and stuff...which I hope is done next week. Then sheet rock, tape, sand, paint, paint the floor, make the light rack, make the sliding light rack, plumb the closed loop and drains, make the doors for the front access. Heck I have a lot to do I haven't even bought dry base rock for the tank yet I need to do that in the next couple weeks..that is my next priority. Then drill it and put rod so they stand up all cool Lunchbucket
jnarowe
New member
yeah man, if you stop working out, you may not fit back there. I tried to recycle studs and it was a total PITA because of all the friggin screws. I did do it on good boards, but what a hassle!
Nothing wrong with painting the wood but I would doubt that would keep it from molding if moisture was to penetrate the wall. JMO though. If you really want to lower the sound, regular insulation is a good idea as well as foaming any penetrations like wall plugs and switches. To really do it "rght", you need a double wall, but I doubt that is in the cards. There is a lot of good info. on the net about sound abatement so you can develop a plan with a little bit of research.
Basically sound transfers through holes as well as through solids. The basic premise of reducing sound is to break up the solids and obstruct the holes.
On my tank, with the powerheads OFF, you can not hear anything from the viewing side.
Nothing wrong with painting the wood but I would doubt that would keep it from molding if moisture was to penetrate the wall. JMO though. If you really want to lower the sound, regular insulation is a good idea as well as foaming any penetrations like wall plugs and switches. To really do it "rght", you need a double wall, but I doubt that is in the cards. There is a lot of good info. on the net about sound abatement so you can develop a plan with a little bit of research.
Basically sound transfers through holes as well as through solids. The basic premise of reducing sound is to break up the solids and obstruct the holes.
On my tank, with the powerheads OFF, you can not hear anything from the viewing side.
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
Nice to know. jnarowe did you just study it for your tank room soundproofing or for something else
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
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