Magnetic or Electronic?

bustayanky

Active member
I'm planning on getting a dual 250 W Ballast and it's a magnetic ballast what is the difference between magnetic or electronic? Pros/Cons. Does one save energy over the other? I also just picked up some Lumenarc III reflectors at CFC Midnight sale tonight but was wondering if i can convert it to a DE 250W bulb. It came with a SE 400W mogul? Since i see on like MD or Hellolights say you can run 250W/400W on them, but wait it looks to be only the Lumenarc 3 Stealth is the one that says that. The regular one has only SE 250W moguls. So it looks like i need a little DIY to convert, maybe? Please let me know. Thanks yall.

Will
 
sweet...i asked the same question a few days ago in the lighting/ filtration forum...id like to know as well
 
Yea i posted in there also. They aren't that helpful over there though. Last time i posted something no one even posted or commented on anything. I usually like the So Cal Reefers Forum. A lot more opinionated.
 
from what I know about magnetic & electronic - magnetics drive the bulb better so it produces better par. the ballast also runs very hot so it's best kept away from the tank. Electronics don't produce the same amount of par and that enables the bulb to last longer. It also runs a lot cooler so heat would be less of an issue.

as far as the lumenarc i have no idea, but if it says 250/400 and has a mogul base, then you can run either a 250 or 400 watt mogul bulb. I have heard good results running a mogul bulb and magnetic ballast. It reaches better par than using a de bulb.
 
Cool. I wish someone can really enlighten me if i can convert it to DE 250 Watts. I guess it's only been like 20 mins. I'm anxious though. haha
 
Magnetic:
Cheaper, uses more power, some may overdrive the bulb so more light but less life, run very hot and are very heavy. Some may produce some flickering of the bulb due to operating at 60 Hz, they are bulb type specific either pulse start or probe start.
If you go magnetic I would recommend PFO brand

Electronic:
More expensive, uses less power but the savings may not pay for the diference in price, no flickering of the bulb at they opearte at a very high frequency, more stable intensity over the life of the bulb. Run the bulb at the manufacturer's specification, they can run either pulse or probe start bulbs giving more flexibility and variaty of bulbs available, run cool, are smaller and weight a lot less so they can be installed under the stand, if the power goes off the ballast will automatically wait until the bulb is cooled down before atempting to restart (A MH bulb will not restart if hot). Some are capable of dimming. If you go electronic I would recommend IceCap
 
Re: Magnetic or Electronic?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10818874#post10818874 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
I also just picked up some Lumenarc III reflectors at CFC Midnight sale tonight but was wondering if i can convert it to a DE 250W bulb. It came with a SE 400W mogul? Since i see on like MD or Hellolights say you can run 250W/400W on them, but wait it looks to be only the Lumenarc 3 Stealth is the one that says that. The regular one has only SE 250W moguls. So it looks like i need a little DIY to convert, maybe? Please let me know. Thanks yall.

Will

The mogul socket can be used with either 175, 250 or 400 bulbs but I do not think the socket is the issue. Lumenarc reflectors are bi-simetrical not only fromt to back but right to left so it is designed so the light emision point of the light bulb rests in the center of the reflector. A 250 watt bulb is shorter so the emision point will be skewed off center toward the socket in a way that the reflector will reflect unevenly. You may be able to correct that if you are able to relocate the socket or build a new bracket as required so the arc is centered in the reflector.
 
hey jdieck, what do you think of the Blue Wave 7 that gcarroll is selling? $170 dual 250 Watt magnetic ballast? Also do you think i should just use the SE 250 Watt bulbs to make it easier? Can i paint the reflectors black? will the paint chip or anything with the intense heat? Thanks WILL
 
Sorry but I am not familiar with the Blue Wave.
I would not recommend painting the back of the reflector It really gets hot to around 300*F to 350*F
 
Ask Greg about it he will tell you more then you want to know.
Super guy to ask for help, if he has time, he will answer all your questions.
He has help me many times on stuff.

Thanks Greg for all help in the pass.
Darrell
 
To each his own, but I would recommend an Electronic Ballast over a Magnetic if your concern about Electricity cost. Big difference in electric savings for me when I switch over to Electronic.
 
So is this a magnetic or electronic ballast? On Marine Depot, PFO 250 Watt Dual EYE Metal Halide Ballast and the Item Code: PF1652
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10820523#post10820523 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bustayanky
So is this a magnetic or electronic ballast? On Marine Depot, PFO 250 Watt Dual EYE Metal Halide Ballast and the Item Code: PF1652
It is magnetic and it is for specific Iwasaki bulbs 5500K and not for the standard MH bulbs.
You are looking for something like this:
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~IC3161.html
Or like this without the box and harness.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...duct_Code=ICE-250NHB&Category_Code=Ice-halide
 
jdieck just nailed it, I just changed from magnetic to electronic.. basically to save money. probably a few bucks a month on electric, and a few more months of life from the lamps. I did notice a difference in par, the magnetics were noticeably brighter, but since I have only a 100, I think I still have plenty of light, as people run 100s on 150s, 175s and even T-5s
 
I have seen people claim that bulbs will look bluer with electronic. I have also seen a few people claim the opposite. What say you experts?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10821689#post10821689 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefer1024
I have seen people claim that bulbs will look bluer with electronic. I have also seen a few people claim the opposite. What say you experts?
Neither one nor the other and totally the opposite:D

Now seriously. The intensity of the arc can change the PAR (Light intensity) and the Kelving (color) which way will go depends on the bulb and the current/voltage the ballast apply to it.
Rather than say one color or the other IMO because a good electronic ballast rund the bulb closer to the specifications of the manufacturer I would say that what you see is what the manufacturer intended it to look like be it blue, white or yellow.
 
Back
Top