making a sump
- Thread starter chuckh
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techreef
Premium Member
Avi,
You lost me halfway through your last post. Are you saying I/we should get several pieces of glass, of slightly varying widths, cut at the same time in order to make sure at least one of them fits?
I never thought to check if the tank was out of square or not. And if it is, jeez, that seems like the variance of the angle, moving from bottom to top of the tank, would be nearly impossible to figure out and get a glass cutter to correctly match the divider glass sizes to.
Can you elaborate on what you meant by "two heights?"
If i find acrylic instead of glass, do you need a band saw to cut acrylic? or can you cut it by scoring it many times w/ an exacto blade?
You lost me halfway through your last post. Are you saying I/we should get several pieces of glass, of slightly varying widths, cut at the same time in order to make sure at least one of them fits?
I never thought to check if the tank was out of square or not. And if it is, jeez, that seems like the variance of the angle, moving from bottom to top of the tank, would be nearly impossible to figure out and get a glass cutter to correctly match the divider glass sizes to.
Can you elaborate on what you meant by "two heights?"
If i find acrylic instead of glass, do you need a band saw to cut acrylic? or can you cut it by scoring it many times w/ an exacto blade?
Avi
Premium Member
I think you did get, tech...I was alerting you to the possibility that the tank you're working with isn't actually on square so you should alert yourself to that possibility before you fabricate the baffles.
By "two heights," I meant that by measuring at more than one height across the width of the tank, you'd see if there are two distances (and so the tank isn't square) and so know to accomodate for that when you fabricate the baffles. In other words, the baffles may or may not be perfectly square depending on the measurements as per above, and you'd be sure to be able to get the whole baffle between the panes of glass of the tank that way. Gee, I hope that's clearer.
lol i was measuring my sump tank at lunch and got ticked off. hard to get an accurate measurement with the dang tape measure. its right around 12 wide. i think
i gave up. i need to get a sewing tape measure, or something that is soft and bends easy.
todd, what did you ask for when you went to home depot? what section is it in?
thanks
i gave up. i need to get a sewing tape measure, or something that is soft and bends easy.
todd, what did you ask for when you went to home depot? what section is it in?
thanks
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
I didn't ask, (I am a guy, I refused too 
, walked around until I found them ) But, if memory serves they were towards the back, near the doors. They had them one the shelves, all different sizes. I would think if you asked for acrylic sheets they will know what you are talking about.
, walked around until I found them ) But, if memory serves they were towards the back, near the doors. They had them one the shelves, all different sizes. I would think if you asked for acrylic sheets they will know what you are talking about.
Avi
Premium Member
I'm going to need a sump for a tank that I'm converting from freshwater to saltwater....after a vacation in May. I was wondering, Todd, if you get any micro-bubbles being sent into your reef or if the double baffle eliminates them completely. Right now in my sump...an Oceanic....there's a hefty stip of foam across the width of the tank between two baffles and that eliminates micro-bubbles completely. Oceanic charges a fortune for what's basically fishtank with two baffles, one of which I actually had to raise up with another piece of glass to accomodate a refugium, and I don't want to spend that much when I can make one that's just as good...or better.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
With both my sumps (both same set up, one being a bit smaller) I only had microbubbles in the beginning, while the PVC was coated. The bubble trap on the smaller sump (20 H for my 58) than the other sump, but I still don't have any. Both use an ASM 1GX skimmer. One thing however, since I didn't drain my sump, and used the other the top method, I did get some bubbles from the "T" that I used to prime the pipe. Some Teflon tape on the threads took care of that.
Here is the 20H sump:
Here is a close up of the "T" I referred too.
Note: I am running a T2 external pump on both (around 600 gph)
Here is the 20H sump:
Here is a close up of the "T" I referred too.
Note: I am running a T2 external pump on both (around 600 gph)
Avi
Premium Member
tech...thanks for letting me know that.
And, Todd, I'm now having a little understanding problem, myself. I'm not certain what you're getting at in that second sentence. And, I guess you mean you use the "over the top" method, but I'm not sure what that is. I don't think I'd drill my new sump (it's going to be the sump for either a 75-gallon or 58-gallon tank...I'm not decided on which one to convert , yet. I suppose I'd use wither a 20 or 30-gallon tank for this new sump) so if you could explain what that plumbing is in the second photo in that post is, I'd appreciate it.
And, Todd, I'm now having a little understanding problem, myself. I'm not certain what you're getting at in that second sentence. And, I guess you mean you use the "over the top" method, but I'm not sure what that is. I don't think I'd drill my new sump (it's going to be the sump for either a 75-gallon or 58-gallon tank...I'm not decided on which one to convert , yet. I suppose I'd use wither a 20 or 30-gallon tank for this new sump) so if you could explain what that plumbing is in the second photo in that post is, I'd appreciate it.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
Sure, I will do my best to explain it. (if I don't ask away, and if needed
I will take more pictures)
The concept is have the return line start in the return section of
the sump. I will go up to just higher then the height of the sump.
It will "go" across than back down (on the outside of the sump) to the pump. I will post pictures to show more detail.
The bigger PVC in this picture is the beginning of the return line.
(the smaller PVC is for a shelf to hold a bag of carbon)
The "bigger" PVC in this picture is a check valve. ( I know check valves don't work 100% of the time) The purpose of it is to hold the water in the pipe while I primed it. It also holds the water when the pump is off. I know for a fact that it will hold for over 4 hours.
Another shot of the "T" with a threaded cap. I used this when I first set it up. With the cap off, I poured tank water into the return line to "prime" it. This way the pump is pulling water. (note I have only had to "prime" it twice -- initial set up, and when I moved the tank, never during a water change)
The return line is now heading back down (outside the sump) to the pump. I have a ball valve and union for when I want to clean the pump.
A very blurry shot of the return line going to the pump and than out of the pump back to the tank.
I hope that cleared it up somewhat, but if it didn't, ask away.
I will take more pictures)
The concept is have the return line start in the return section of
the sump. I will go up to just higher then the height of the sump.
It will "go" across than back down (on the outside of the sump) to the pump. I will post pictures to show more detail.
The bigger PVC in this picture is the beginning of the return line.
(the smaller PVC is for a shelf to hold a bag of carbon)
The "bigger" PVC in this picture is a check valve. ( I know check valves don't work 100% of the time) The purpose of it is to hold the water in the pipe while I primed it. It also holds the water when the pump is off. I know for a fact that it will hold for over 4 hours.
Another shot of the "T" with a threaded cap. I used this when I first set it up. With the cap off, I poured tank water into the return line to "prime" it. This way the pump is pulling water. (note I have only had to "prime" it twice -- initial set up, and when I moved the tank, never during a water change)
The return line is now heading back down (outside the sump) to the pump. I have a ball valve and union for when I want to clean the pump.
A very blurry shot of the return line going to the pump and than out of the pump back to the tank.
I hope that cleared it up somewhat, but if it didn't, ask away.
Avi
Premium Member
Hey, I actually think I do understand now. So, in short, there's PVC with an open end, of course, coming out if the return section going up and over to other side of the tank and then down the outside where at the bottom it changes direction over to the pump...Is that correct? Okay, so you used a check valve and you explained why, but would you bother with that if you had to do it over again? Should I do it?
One more question...How did you know in advance, at which level to keep the water in the sump so that it would contain enough extra space for all the water that would go down from the reef to the sump when the pump is turned off before the reef's water leverl goes to the top of the overflow? THANKS again Todd.
One more question...How did you know in advance, at which level to keep the water in the sump so that it would contain enough extra space for all the water that would go down from the reef to the sump when the pump is turned off before the reef's water leverl goes to the top of the overflow? THANKS again Todd.
Avi
Premium Member
chuck, I'm gonna take the liberty of answering...if I get it wrong, Todd'll explain to the both of us: the "three pipes" that you're refering to (with the letters and numbers on them in the photo) are not part of the plumbing configuration...they're part of a stand for a bag of carbon....the "brown" think is the bag of carbon.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
Avi, umm, yes, if I had it to do again, I would use the check valve, I feel it makes things alot easier.
As for the water level, to be honest I took a chance, and get very lucky. But, you said you are going to do this to either your 58 or 75 and use either a 20 or 30 gallon sump. That is what I have (58 with 20 H sump & 75 with a 30 sump), so you could use my baffle heights as a good starting point. I do think, however there is a sump volume calculator on the home page of RC.
Chuck -- The other pipes you see are for a PVC shelf I made to hold a bag of carbon (the bag is that "brown" thing you see)
This is a better picture of the shelf
As for the water level, to be honest I took a chance, and get very lucky. But, you said you are going to do this to either your 58 or 75 and use either a 20 or 30 gallon sump. That is what I have (58 with 20 H sump & 75 with a 30 sump), so you could use my baffle heights as a good starting point. I do think, however there is a sump volume calculator on the home page of RC.
Chuck -- The other pipes you see are for a PVC shelf I made to hold a bag of carbon (the bag is that "brown" thing you see)
This is a better picture of the shelf
Avi, Todd.
i went to home depot last night and got the acrylic and what not to make the dividers, i put the first one in last night and waited for it to dry.
the first divider after the skimmer is 14'
the 2nd divider is where the water goes under for the bubble trap that is 16' and 1 inch open at bottom for the water to flow through.
the 3rd divider is 14' which is where the comes up from the bubble trap
the 4th divider is 15' that is separating the area where the live rock will go. i will have a piece of 1' egg create to catch debris flowing to return area
when my dad cut the bottom corners of the acrylic looks like he made them a little to big. i should be able to fill them in with silicone. everything else seems fine
thanks for all your help. i hope i do this correctly. ill post pics when done
i went to home depot last night and got the acrylic and what not to make the dividers, i put the first one in last night and waited for it to dry.
the first divider after the skimmer is 14'
the 2nd divider is where the water goes under for the bubble trap that is 16' and 1 inch open at bottom for the water to flow through.
the 3rd divider is 14' which is where the comes up from the bubble trap
the 4th divider is 15' that is separating the area where the live rock will go. i will have a piece of 1' egg create to catch debris flowing to return area
when my dad cut the bottom corners of the acrylic looks like he made them a little to big. i should be able to fill them in with silicone. everything else seems fine
thanks for all your help. i hope i do this correctly. ill post pics when done
Avi
Premium Member
Yeah, chuck...the silicon will make a good bond and hold the baffles in place...be sure to let it cure for a sufficient amount of time before filling it up with water. I'd like to see the photos when it's done. I think I'll be ready to build one myself when I get back from vacation. I still have to decide whether it'll be the 58-gallon or 75-gallon so I'm not decided on the size of the sump yet, either. I have a feeling it's gonna be the 75.
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