Mantis ?'s

ZC

New member
OK so i've had my O.S. mantis prob close to 3 months now ( close to 5") and it still hasnt' molted..... Also I noticed today what looks like a small pin size brown hole towards the back of it's exo. I'm hoping this is not the shell disease that i've read about.

Is there a normal amount of time that it takes an O.S. to molt? And if the brown spot is shell disease what can I do about it to help it?
 
the larger the mantis the longer it goes between molts. I would be guessing but I would say if its hasn't molted in the time you have had it, then it should be molting soon.
Without a picture its hard to say if its just a spot or if its shell rot. The best thing you can do, if it is, is the best thing you can do for your mantis anyway. Clean water and nutritous foods are about all you can really do. Also keep a close eye on your mantis and when it does molt, get the shead out before the mantis gets a chance to eat it. Normally you want to let the mantis eat its shead and reabsorbe some or the nutrents that went into the shell but in this case you don't want it to ingest the infected shell.
 
I'll try and get a pic in the next few days if I can. She's not real photogenic.

Also she's been breaking rock and taking the small pieces and closing in here PVC cave., along with covering the entrance with alot of sand. Seems to me like it's becomming harder for her to get in and out.
 
It does sound like she is preparing for a molt. Molts are almost always preceded by a lot of burrow construction. She will probably stop taking food a day or two prior to the molt.

Aside from good water, food and a dark burrow, I'm hesitant to recommend any other treatment. I do find that using uv sterilization seems to cut done the progression and spread of the disease and I might help with stopping reinfection if the animal molts. It does not cure or even slow a well developed case of shell disease once it has developed.

Hemisquilla californiensis is another stomatopod that is very prone to a shell disease, although it appears to be a different set of pathogens (fungus) from those that cause the brown or rust colored stain in O. scyllarus. Some people report moderate success using the diarylmethane dye "Malachite Green" to treat Hemisquilla. The standard treatment is a bath made from .25 ml /liter of Malachite Green stock solution in sea water. The stock solution is usually 1.4 g malachite green in 380 ml of water. I don't know the concentration that is usually sold commercially to aquarists to treat ich. Animals are treated for one hour every other day for three treatments. It is advised to use aeration. I have tried this with Hemisquilla and it seemed to at least slow the disease.

I must warn you, however, that this has not been tried by me on O. scyllarus, so I have no idea if it will be lethal to the animal. Also Malachite Green is a respiratory poison, teratogen, and a suspected carcinogen and should be handled with appropriate caution. Also, it is increasingly toxic to fish with increasing temperature. The Hemisquilla were treated at 15C, so perhaps a lower concentration would be necessary with an animal at 25 C. A couple of other cautions. This compound stains plastics and other surfaces green. Also, it is manufactured as an oxalate salt (green crystals) and as a zinc chloride salt (yellow crystals). The latter is toxic and should not be used.

Malachite green persists in tissues for a long time after treatment, so do not eat the animal after treatment.

Fish are sometimes treated by swabbing a malachite green solution directly on the lesions. I might be tempted to try that. For fish 100 ml/liter is used. Rinse the animal well and hold in quarantine before re-introducing the animal to its home tank.

I do not recommend these procedures. There is obvious risk involved. However, they do seem at least partially effective with Hemisquilla, so you may want to consider them.

Roy
 
ditto on the good food advice. If you're feeding frozens, soaking them in a supplement like selcon might help too. good luck! im hoping its just a spot and not diseased
 
Thanks for the info Dr. Roy. I may try and see if I can come across a UV sterilizer and give that a shot. The spot now is maybe the size of a ball point pen mark, but there is noticable depth to to spot.


Justinl- I soak her food in selcon and Marine C about twice a week, I may start using vita-chem now instead though...

I wonder if it would help to feed TherA pellets?
 
If the animal molts in the next week or two, I would not worry too much about the spot. It should be shed. UV may help and by all means get the old cuticle out of the system ASAP. I would not try the Malechite unless things started to really degenerate.

Roy
 
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