March 19th - Reef Trip to see Monster Reef Setups

[tgreene]

The following is a breakdown of the systems' total volumes as tank plus sump.

Mine = 1200 (730 display + sump & prop tanks)
Doc's = 365 (240+125g sump)
Carl's = 365 (240+125g sump)
Dentist = 1050 (980+70g sump)
Engines = 355 (300+55g sump)
House remodel = 1100 (685 display + sump & prop tanks)

Every system has extensive CL's, dedicated electrical circuits, isolated environmental controls, and full automation. 3 of us have auto-switching generators built into the electrical systems.

-Tim

 

[SNAKEMANVET]

Closed loop systems are nice,I just don't like drilling more in my tank.I am getting a mag 24 at 2400 gph to set-up a closed loop,I will just run it over the top of the tank.I am thinking if power goes out it should have enough water to create a siphone to start back up.

 

[tgreene]

Closed loop systems are nice,I just don't like drilling more in my tank.I am getting a mag 24 at 2400 gph to set-up a closed loop,I will just run it over the top of the tank.I am thinking if power goes out it should have enough water to create a siphone to start back up.

That will work fine, and as long as the intake and returns are well below the waterline you'll never lose siphon.

The problem with Mag pumps however are 2-fold.

1. They require 2x the pipe diameter on the return side, in order to get the full rated GPH of the pump. On a Mag-24, you'll be looking at 2" PVC in order to gain the full flow, then if using 90* fittings to go over the top lip, you'll lose even more than what the typical head pressure loss is.
   
   
2. They tend to run very hot, which means that the impellars are prone to drawing Ca out of the water and seizing up due to Ca buildup over time. Obviously you'll then need to remove the coverplates to clean the impellars, but over time the screw holes strip out since the bodies are made of a softer plastic... Plastic body = plastic inner threads. Eventually, you find that your pump will forever be sucking air since you'll no longer have a factory tight seal. When I used to run CL's this way, I always kept a handful of additional coverplates and gaskets on hand, and routinely found myself having to epoxy over the thread holes on the bodies, then re-tapping them.

A much better solution would be to run a Pan-World 200PS or 250PS (or similar) since it would negate all of the afore mentioned issues. :love1:

-Tim

 

[SNAKEMANVET]

The only thing I worry about running a external pump is it will start leaking if a seal goes out,and then I will have a wet floor.I am wanting to put the pump in my sump so I would have no worries about leaks.I guess I could place the external pump over my sump just in case. Thanks Tim

 

[tgreene]

The only thing I worry about running a external pump is it will start leaking if a seal goes out,and then I will have a wet floor.I am wanting to put the pump in my sump so I would have no worries about leaks.I guess I could place the external pump over my sump just in case. Thanks Tim

The biggest problem with internal pumps, is that the water surrounding them acts as a giant heat sink.

Watts = Heat

Being that a Mag-24 is 265 watts, it would be the same as running a non-regulated 265w heater 24/7.

The PanWorld pumps use a set-back o-ring, and in all the years I've run them, I've yet to ever have a failure as long as the o-ring was properly seated and lightly greased.

If you're still concerned about the possibility of a leak, you could always place the CL pump inside a small cafeteria tray with a hand towel inside it for containment and absorbtion in the event of a mishap.

-Tim

 

[SNAKEMANVET]

Are the panworld pumps real quiet.

 

[tgreene]

Very!

 

[SNAKEMANVET]

Cool, I will have to check them out.