marineland stealth heaters SHOCKING!!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9577295#post9577295 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TomRep
I had a Stealth heater blow up on me yesterday, literally. Blew the top piece of so hard it flew out of the tank and hit the cieling of our basement. Sounded like a fire cracker too. I have about 6 or 7 of these heaters on my broodstock tanks and thought they were great. Held temp very stable and plastic body was nice, but now I'm not so sure. Luckily it blew while I was there. Oh yea, and if anyone has any DIY skills, there is an awsome temp controller that works great in the DIY forum. Costs about $50-60 dollars and is a dual stage (two outlets heat, two outlets cool if you have a chiller).
Tom
Glad I am going with a Jager!!:eek2:
 
If you DIY something, you had better make darn sure it is bulletproof. A RANCO is about $80 for a single stage and a little over $100 for a dual stage. It is money WELL spent.

The "hobby" controllers like the finnex are not much better than the hobby heaters.

It is a simple numbers game. Cheaping out on your heating system is likely going to cost you a lot more than the proepr setup would have in the first place.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9577865#post9577865 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
If you DIY something, you had better make darn sure it is bulletproof. A RANCO is about $80 for a single stage and a little over $100 for a dual stage. It is money WELL spent.

The "hobby" controllers like the finnex are not much better than the hobby heaters.

It is a simple numbers game. Cheaping out on your heating system is likely going to cost you a lot more than the proepr setup would have in the first place.
Like this Bean???
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ranco-Digital-E...ryZ38172QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
 
Yeah that the correct model number. I would rather get one wired with a plug and short cord, not that ugly orange monster... but...
 
I prefer to run my heaters FIXED in an area of the sump that has a constant water level and can NOT run dry. I prefer to leave the corded ends dry.

In reality, I run my heaters through a bulkhead fitting in the side of the tank. This keeps them submerged in the input side of my sump and keeps the corded ends dry. No chance of leaks.

You can also fashion (or buy) inline heater modules that will fit into your return pump plumbing.
 
So the basis of the Ranco Controller or sim. is you set a high temp of 80 deg for example, and the controller shuts the power to the plug (heater unit) off at the high temp when it hits 80 and then turns back on once the 80 deg temp is reached so then the heater unit turns back itself back on since it has power? Your basically cutting the power to the heater when the high temp is reached and insurring that the heater can not fry your tank, no?
 
Yes the RANCO turns the power to the heater(s) on and off. It is MUCH more reliable than the internal thermostats on the hobby heaters. You can certainly set the heaters integral thermostats to 84 or so to act as a failsafe.
 
so by going with a controller all you do is bypass the thermostat on the tube heaters? Mine shocked the tank without tripping GFI. I am sure this will fix some problems.......but not all
 
I'm using my RK2 (Reef Keeper 2) controller to do this same thing. Seems to work pretty well. I don't have GFI though, maybe I should. I talked to several, including my electritian, who indicated that they trip all the time and are more trouble than they are worth. If I used one now, I'd need to get the plug in type. Any thoughts on the GFI?
 
The plug in types nuisance trip more than the receptacle type (at least in my experience). I would use multiple GFCIs, one on each piece of critical equipment. That way a fualt will not bring everything down.
 
I have my equipment seperated between 2 main power centers. 1 controlled by RK2 and the 8 plug bank and the 8 plug bank of my DJ 100. I think I will look to hook the RK2 power bank to GFCI. This unit controls my MH fix suspended above the tank!
 
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