Maroun 150g Build Thread
- Thread starter maroun.c
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maroun.c
New member
time to post some of the corals that I got before traveling. in hope of getting some help on ID and requirements (flow lighting and feeding. I positioned those in my tank to get similar conditions as they were getting at the LFS but would move them slowly to other areas in case they prefer different conditions.
1
This one was attached tot hat big flat piece of Lr I got from the LFS and got broken off on the way home. have it under medium light and medium flow.
2
I previsously thought this one was an SPS but it was identified as LPS? it's a bit more green in reality. have it under medium light medium high flow.
3
I know this is a Scolymia as I had a similar green one years before. I ahve it under medium high light and lower flow.
4
a 90 % dead Montipora? I believe it's a bit different than the montipora capricornis that I sea posted here so is it a different type of montipora or a different coral? this one was thrown in the back room tank after it had "bleeched" severly when they got it but the remaining parts were stil alive since months in that tank. it was under 150 W 20 K halides but thrown near the back ok and with little flow hitting it. I put it under medium low light for 3-4 days then moved it to medium light lower flow. I beleive it need higher flow? do you think it could make it? should I frag the living parts and put them on rocks or is it better to cut the dead areas?
5
finally the SPS I previously posted but I still didn't get any Id or info.
Thanks for any help you can give on those and also on my lighting question as I will be getting my lights tomorrow.
Also how fast do you think I can add fish tot he tank now? I have around 14 fish that I bought in Dubai which will go to Quarantine.
All of them are really small Wrasses, gobies,Lyretails, and I might give away some. Reason for getting all those is that I was on the way back from Dubai with no luggage as my bag was lost so I could afford around 25 KG more with me. Unfortunately the LFS that I deal with here had no stock at all. anotehr one had jsut received a shipment of fish and few soft corals so I ended getting those fish which had arrived to the store yesterday only. I got a big discount on condition that I buy for a certain amount so I just made use of the offer. all of them looked really active and not a single fish was dead in a tank or had spots so I decided to try mu luck. I also got a rock with anthelia, a sponge, and a Sea Pen (this is how they labeled it at least) will post pics of it as it's the first time I sea it, and I finally got a leather coral Sarcophyton as gift. I had decided to keep my leathers at a minimum in case I start getting more SPS but I can always remove it if it cannot coexist with SPS.
1
This one was attached tot hat big flat piece of Lr I got from the LFS and got broken off on the way home. have it under medium light and medium flow.
2
I previsously thought this one was an SPS but it was identified as LPS? it's a bit more green in reality. have it under medium light medium high flow.
3
I know this is a Scolymia as I had a similar green one years before. I ahve it under medium high light and lower flow.
4
a 90 % dead Montipora? I believe it's a bit different than the montipora capricornis that I sea posted here so is it a different type of montipora or a different coral? this one was thrown in the back room tank after it had "bleeched" severly when they got it but the remaining parts were stil alive since months in that tank. it was under 150 W 20 K halides but thrown near the back ok and with little flow hitting it. I put it under medium low light for 3-4 days then moved it to medium light lower flow. I beleive it need higher flow? do you think it could make it? should I frag the living parts and put them on rocks or is it better to cut the dead areas?
5
finally the SPS I previously posted but I still didn't get any Id or info.
Thanks for any help you can give on those and also on my lighting question as I will be getting my lights tomorrow.
Also how fast do you think I can add fish tot he tank now? I have around 14 fish that I bought in Dubai which will go to Quarantine.
All of them are really small Wrasses, gobies,Lyretails, and I might give away some. Reason for getting all those is that I was on the way back from Dubai with no luggage as my bag was lost so I could afford around 25 KG more with me. Unfortunately the LFS that I deal with here had no stock at all. anotehr one had jsut received a shipment of fish and few soft corals so I ended getting those fish which had arrived to the store yesterday only. I got a big discount on condition that I buy for a certain amount so I just made use of the offer. all of them looked really active and not a single fish was dead in a tank or had spots so I decided to try mu luck. I also got a rock with anthelia, a sponge, and a Sea Pen (this is how they labeled it at least) will post pics of it as it's the first time I sea it, and I finally got a leather coral Sarcophyton as gift. I had decided to keep my leathers at a minimum in case I start getting more SPS but I can always remove it if it cannot coexist with SPS.
melev
Well-known member
The first one is like a Pagoda Cup.
The second may be a Scroll coral - normally these are Yellow. (Just a guess)
The third is probably right, although I was thinking Lobophytum also.
The fourth is right, and I would cut off what is 100% dead because nuisance algae will grow on it. It is very brittle, so cutting one area can result in sudden chunks snapping off. Try to trim it without getting too aggressive. The core will always be dead, as tissue grows on the tips and rarely every covers over the older section of this particular coral, in my experience.
The fifth one is a mystery acro at this point. There just isn't enough there to identify it yet.
Lighting various corals, you have to get a feel for it. Usually all new arrivals should be placed low in the tank, and then raised up gradually over the next few weeks until you find a happy spot. Most people don't have that option due to livestock already being scattered throughout their tank and tend to put the coral where it will always be. Re-setting timers to a shorter light period is another method that works for new arrivals, gradually ramping it back up over a week or longer. Another option is to put some window screen over some eggcrate on top of the tank, shading that particular coral. Every couple of days, remove one layer of window screen so the coral gets more light.
Leathers and acros are kind of a no-no, but as you know I have a mixed reef with both myself. Running carbon in a Phosban Reactor and changing it weekly as worked for me, but my SPS growth isn't nearly as fast as others enjoy, more than likely because of the mixed coral chemical soup I have.
The second may be a Scroll coral - normally these are Yellow. (Just a guess)
The third is probably right, although I was thinking Lobophytum also.
The fourth is right, and I would cut off what is 100% dead because nuisance algae will grow on it. It is very brittle, so cutting one area can result in sudden chunks snapping off. Try to trim it without getting too aggressive. The core will always be dead, as tissue grows on the tips and rarely every covers over the older section of this particular coral, in my experience.
The fifth one is a mystery acro at this point. There just isn't enough there to identify it yet.
Lighting various corals, you have to get a feel for it. Usually all new arrivals should be placed low in the tank, and then raised up gradually over the next few weeks until you find a happy spot. Most people don't have that option due to livestock already being scattered throughout their tank and tend to put the coral where it will always be. Re-setting timers to a shorter light period is another method that works for new arrivals, gradually ramping it back up over a week or longer. Another option is to put some window screen over some eggcrate on top of the tank, shading that particular coral. Every couple of days, remove one layer of window screen so the coral gets more light.
Leathers and acros are kind of a no-no, but as you know I have a mixed reef with both myself. Running carbon in a Phosban Reactor and changing it weekly as worked for me, but my SPS growth isn't nearly as fast as others enjoy, more than likely because of the mixed coral chemical soup I have.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks for the info Melev. These are new arrivals in my tank as you say however they were for months at the LFS in a tank with 2 250 W 20k Halides. that tank is muchtaller than mine however some of them were high in the tank that's why I directly put them high in the tank under the 150s. The LFS used to light that tank with halides for 4-5 hours a day and I'm only lighting mine with 4 hours with one halide and only 3 hours till now with the second one as my corals were not used to such higher light output. Should be increasing by one hour foreach today and another hour by next week if I don't get the 250 W and T5s by then.
Any suggestions on which T5s to go with? Actinics or white. My fluorescent actinics don't have any effect on the light when the halides are on and was wondering ifthe T5 actinic will make more effect? I'm consiering going with only 2 additional white T5s and keeping the actinic fluorescent for 1 hour at the start and end of each day. I'm expecting that the 250 W 20k wil give some more blue color to the tank. Still I'm open to any other suggestions.
Any suggestions on which T5s to go with? Actinics or white. My fluorescent actinics don't have any effect on the light when the halides are on and was wondering ifthe T5 actinic will make more effect? I'm consiering going with only 2 additional white T5s and keeping the actinic fluorescent for 1 hour at the start and end of each day. I'm expecting that the 250 W 20k wil give some more blue color to the tank. Still I'm open to any other suggestions.
chrismunn
New member
10-12 hours in the tank with a resulting burn, now thats dedication! 
that thing on the wall behind the tank is a light switch? i thought it was a thermostat er something? is it some sort of super light switch only found in lebanon?
i really like the aquascape! are you going to leave the right side of the tank open for swimming space for all the tangs?
that thing on the wall behind the tank is a light switch? i thought it was a thermostat er something? is it some sort of super light switch only found in lebanon?
i really like the aquascape! are you going to leave the right side of the tank open for swimming space for all the tangs?
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maroun.c
New member
10-12 hours in the tank with a resulting burn, now thats dedication!
HEHEHE I got similar comments when many people heard that my skin burn was due to the aquarium light.
I wanted to have the aquacape finished and the corals and fishes in before I traveled for a week.
LOL
I guess light switches are universal and these should eb available in other countries too? it is true that I don't recall seing similar ones anywhere else though. Anyway these were installed by the landlord not me. will take a picture of it and post it when I ahve some time.
I'm liking it more and more. As I previously said I wanted a more gradual slope to the back to eba ble to position more corals at mid level but now that all my corals are in I believe I'd rather have to only fill the top instead of additional corals for mid level too.
I was wondering between an open space on the RT side or maybe having the two islands scaping. but as you said wanted to ffer the fish an open space to allow myself more tangs in teh tank. I ahve that space in addition to a space behind the rocks on all the tank length so they can do laps if they want. also there will be a horizontal current at the back of the rock structure so the fish can chose to swim all the tank lenght with or agains thte current or maybe mover to the upper mid of the tank behind the rocks to avoid taht current. I was told that this is very important for tangs as swiming this 5-6 foot distance against current would be very similar to swiming much more without one. don't know how true it is though but it can't harm anything to have it.
Now I'm just hoping I can find a yellow tang soon.
HEHEHE I got similar comments when many people heard that my skin burn was due to the aquarium light.
I wanted to have the aquacape finished and the corals and fishes in before I traveled for a week.
LOL
I guess light switches are universal and these should eb available in other countries too? it is true that I don't recall seing similar ones anywhere else though. Anyway these were installed by the landlord not me. will take a picture of it and post it when I ahve some time.
I'm liking it more and more. As I previously said I wanted a more gradual slope to the back to eba ble to position more corals at mid level but now that all my corals are in I believe I'd rather have to only fill the top instead of additional corals for mid level too.
I was wondering between an open space on the RT side or maybe having the two islands scaping. but as you said wanted to ffer the fish an open space to allow myself more tangs in teh tank. I ahve that space in addition to a space behind the rocks on all the tank length so they can do laps if they want. also there will be a horizontal current at the back of the rock structure so the fish can chose to swim all the tank lenght with or agains thte current or maybe mover to the upper mid of the tank behind the rocks to avoid taht current. I was told that this is very important for tangs as swiming this 5-6 foot distance against current would be very similar to swiming much more without one. don't know how true it is though but it can't harm anything to have it.
Now I'm just hoping I can find a yellow tang soon.
maroun.c
New member
I wanted to know about that "light switch" too, but I kept forgetting to ask.
Next time I'm in the states I have to check your light switches to see how different they are.
Anyway I placed a background to the back glass yesterday and its not showing anymore.
It was a struggle as I ahd no one to help me lift the canopy so I had to slide it from the back.
Next time I'm in the states I have to check your light switches to see how different they are.
Anyway I placed a background to the back glass yesterday and its not showing anymore.
It was a struggle as I ahd no one to help me lift the canopy so I had to slide it from the back.
maroun.c
New member
Can anyone tell me what is the best way to catch and move pods from my old refugium for the 80 g to the new tank and it's refugium and frag tank
I tried syphoning them with an airline and did manage to catch some but it's taking too much time. I have lots of pods and would like to transfer some to my 150 to seed it.
I tried syphoning them with an airline and did manage to catch some but it's taking too much time. I have lots of pods and would like to transfer some to my 150 to seed it.
chrismunn
New member
if you have a bunch of macro in your fuge you can just take it out and swish it around in your display tank. if not you can get some filter floss, or a pre filter block and put it in your refugium for a few days. eventually the pods will be crwling on the filter floss. then you can take the filter floss and swirl it around in the display untill they all fall off
maroun.c
New member
You wee right on this one as it was IDd as a Lobophilia (which should be the same as Lobophytum) on the "post your scolymia pics" where I posted it.
I will be getting another one that is still at the LFS butwhich is only a single head as I like the colour it gives to the tank. Same for the Pagoda cup as it loks much nicer now that it's pening fully .
maroun.c
New member
Came back on Thursay evening from my trip and checked on the tank, Luckily everything was doing much better than I expected. the fish were out much more then when I left as they had been in the tank for 1-2 days when I left. all corals were fine except for a few:
one of my leather corals that I put in the left back of hte tank to have it get lower light was not getting too much flow and looke closed so I moved it today to an area with a bit more light but muche better flow hopoing it'll be fine.
My unidentifies acro had 3 extensions become white but this does not seem to affect the other parts of it. I guess I'll just let it be for the tiem being. The two tiny frags I got from the pieaces that broke off seem to be fine.
So for now I still have to do the following:
Electrical:
Finalize the electrical setup which is functional for now but still needs to have the brakers, switches, lines arranged and insateed on a wood piece to be hidden near behind the tank at the left.
The LFS got the 250 halide fixtures but it's not the same type I have nowthey told me it's a bit bigger and attaches via 4 cables and hangs in the canopy (guessit's made for tanks withuot canpies. I believe this wil givs an advantage of being able to take ithigher or lower, but a disadvantage of the inconvenience of it blocking the way in addition to having all its heat released in the canopy where the ones I have erlease part of their heat outside of it.
They did not receive T5s yet but i decided to get 4 bulbs 2 actinics and 2 whites if I can fit them. will try to keep the T8 actinics for a morning and late night phase .
Water: Run my tests which I still have nt done till now, but Iguess the essentialsshuld be fine as everything looks ok
Water change.
Plumbing:
Finalize the CL and modify the outlets by adding a 2nd elbow to some of them so I can better direct them.
Will keep you guys posted.
one of my leather corals that I put in the left back of hte tank to have it get lower light was not getting too much flow and looke closed so I moved it today to an area with a bit more light but muche better flow hopoing it'll be fine.
My unidentifies acro had 3 extensions become white but this does not seem to affect the other parts of it. I guess I'll just let it be for the tiem being. The two tiny frags I got from the pieaces that broke off seem to be fine.
So for now I still have to do the following:
Electrical:
Finalize the electrical setup which is functional for now but still needs to have the brakers, switches, lines arranged and insateed on a wood piece to be hidden near behind the tank at the left.
The LFS got the 250 halide fixtures but it's not the same type I have nowthey told me it's a bit bigger and attaches via 4 cables and hangs in the canopy (guessit's made for tanks withuot canpies. I believe this wil givs an advantage of being able to take ithigher or lower, but a disadvantage of the inconvenience of it blocking the way in addition to having all its heat released in the canopy where the ones I have erlease part of their heat outside of it.
They did not receive T5s yet but i decided to get 4 bulbs 2 actinics and 2 whites if I can fit them. will try to keep the T8 actinics for a morning and late night phase .
Water: Run my tests which I still have nt done till now, but Iguess the essentialsshuld be fine as everything looks ok
Water change.
Plumbing:
Finalize the CL and modify the outlets by adding a 2nd elbow to some of them so I can better direct them.
Will keep you guys posted.
chrismunn
New member
you know you could probably get great flow in that tank by using a big 1000gph pump split with an OM squirt while using penductors on the outlets. that in combination with the CL your running now would be pretty awsome flow!
i thought i read somewhere that you were going to add another CL with 4-5 1/4" nozzels.
i thought i read somewhere that you were going to add another CL with 4-5 1/4" nozzels.
maroun.c
New member
Finding a SCWD here was a miracle so that will have to wait till I travel to somewhere and find a LFS that has one in stock.
Unfortunately most companies will not ship till here and if any would ship then the cost of shiping and customs wil make it very expensive.
Right. just finishing its plumbing
chrismunn
New member
i was wondering why it was so hard for you to get certain things there. i thought you would just be able to order anything you needed online from any number of the companies out there. i had no idea they wouldnt ship to certain places. i always thought they would ship wherever!
to fine an OM squirt you could just buy one from someone on RC.
to fine an OM squirt you could just buy one from someone on RC.
maroun.c
New member
Checked with the LFS for the 250 W MH.
The bulbs are already there and the fixtures should be in by end of this week.
They have a choice for the bulbs between Arcadia and Giesman.
So far I have always used Arcadia as it was the only available option here. Do you think Giesman offers any advantage over it?
Still don't know if there is a price difference
The bulbs are already there and the fixtures should be in by end of this week.
They have a choice for the bulbs between Arcadia and Giesman.
So far I have always used Arcadia as it was the only available option here. Do you think Giesman offers any advantage over it?
Still don't know if there is a price difference
