Maroun.c 390 G build thread
- Thread starter maroun.c
- Start date
maroun.c
New member
Back to the tank,
Some pics after the masking tape was taken off the seams, minutes after tank was assembled.
I can clearly see huge difference in the glass, much more than visible on pics between back wall and other panels. Can’t wait to shoot some pics of corals in it.
Eurobracing installed. Space kept on the left side for easier manipulation of tubing coming out of overflow, as well to use the brace to support screen material to prevent fish from jumping in overflow.
Silicone that burst out from the seams was cleaned with a blade after it dried out for days and I could see for the first time how clean the seams turned out:
Some pics after the masking tape was taken off the seams, minutes after tank was assembled.
I can clearly see huge difference in the glass, much more than visible on pics between back wall and other panels. Can’t wait to shoot some pics of corals in it.
Eurobracing installed. Space kept on the left side for easier manipulation of tubing coming out of overflow, as well to use the brace to support screen material to prevent fish from jumping in overflow.
Silicone that burst out from the seams was cleaned with a blade after it dried out for days and I could see for the first time how clean the seams turned out:
syedjilani
Active member
Very nice.... are you putting some bracing at the bottom of it, for more strength... Anyway it will cover with substrate..... 
syedjilani
Active member
Back wall will be painted later on or you will stick eliminated sheet..... Do you have any plan to paint back wall with lighter to dark blue color...??
maroun.c
New member
Now for the more interesting stuff where I'll need some suggestions:
this is the system plan with most of the plumbing and position of most important components.
The fishroom is in an attick around 6 feet higher from the sump 7.5 feet including height of the tanks in the fishroom. Overall I’m satisfied with the layout. But would appreciate opinions on the following:
-Circulation pump: is it necessary to go with a high pressure external pump? Most of those would consume around 400W and need to be external as well as provide most probably more flow than I really need? I have recently got an Aquabee 5000 which has a max head of 15.6 feet 4.7 meters, consuming 75 W and can be used submerged or outside the water. Other options would be the Ocean runner 6500 or Eheim 1262 or the Aquabee 7000...
-Chiller position on the return line from the Fishroom system:
Do you think the chiller on the return line would cause sump and tank to cool too much before the fishroom setup cools enough for the chiller to stop?
How would you position heaters to avoid them receiving the cold water from the chiller before the tank chills and turning on? Or the chiller getting most of the heated water from the heaters and turning on before the tank is heated enough and then having the chiller and heaters again working against each other?
Best solution I see so far is to add a couple of temp probes in the tank and have them control the heaters and chillers, via a couple of controllers. Which then causes the problem of having all the heaters being shut down in case the probe or controller fault…
Thanks for your suggestions.
this is the system plan with most of the plumbing and position of most important components.
The fishroom is in an attick around 6 feet higher from the sump 7.5 feet including height of the tanks in the fishroom. Overall I’m satisfied with the layout. But would appreciate opinions on the following:
-Circulation pump: is it necessary to go with a high pressure external pump? Most of those would consume around 400W and need to be external as well as provide most probably more flow than I really need? I have recently got an Aquabee 5000 which has a max head of 15.6 feet 4.7 meters, consuming 75 W and can be used submerged or outside the water. Other options would be the Ocean runner 6500 or Eheim 1262 or the Aquabee 7000...
-Chiller position on the return line from the Fishroom system:
Do you think the chiller on the return line would cause sump and tank to cool too much before the fishroom setup cools enough for the chiller to stop?
How would you position heaters to avoid them receiving the cold water from the chiller before the tank chills and turning on? Or the chiller getting most of the heated water from the heaters and turning on before the tank is heated enough and then having the chiller and heaters again working against each other?
Best solution I see so far is to add a couple of temp probes in the tank and have them control the heaters and chillers, via a couple of controllers. Which then causes the problem of having all the heaters being shut down in case the probe or controller fault…
Thanks for your suggestions.
d3hree
New member
It looks like you have 2 refugiums?...one next to the RDSB and one under the tank.
I think if it was my system I would have the refugiums next to the frags and have the dsb under the tank. This way you can control the lighting and flow requirements better, ie DSB doesnt need light. i am of course assuming that what you refer to refug is algaes like chaeto lit.
This will also help your cryptic zone.
IMO 1" is fine for bubble traps
Your first drawing looks like the remote filter gravity feeds into the sump. I dont know if gravity feeding a chiller would be adequate, maybe that could be plumbed into the return pump this will also help with temp control.
I also think that I would have the tank drain to the right side of the sump next to the water change and then have the water flow from right to left until the return pumps that are on the left side. It looks as you have it now that potentially the water could just sit in the fuge areas?..I could well be wrong though
HTH
I think if it was my system I would have the refugiums next to the frags and have the dsb under the tank. This way you can control the lighting and flow requirements better, ie DSB doesnt need light. i am of course assuming that what you refer to refug is algaes like chaeto lit.
This will also help your cryptic zone.
IMO 1" is fine for bubble traps
Your first drawing looks like the remote filter gravity feeds into the sump. I dont know if gravity feeding a chiller would be adequate, maybe that could be plumbed into the return pump this will also help with temp control.
I also think that I would have the tank drain to the right side of the sump next to the water change and then have the water flow from right to left until the return pumps that are on the left side. It looks as you have it now that potentially the water could just sit in the fuge areas?..I could well be wrong though
HTH
maroun.c
New member
The Fuge in the fishroom is in an attick so access to it won't be that easy. I planned it this way to have daily access to fast growing macro under the tank and only have to go to attick every 2-3 weeks to harvest some slower growing macro like maybe Chaeto from there.
This is what I'm most worried about.
Gravity feeding should work as the fishroom is around 7-8 feet higher than tank and there should be good flow through it, however i'm worried that shutting down the pump for coral feeing or fish feeding will leave the chiller running with no circulation, same if it's fed by the return from sump. Cant have the chiller shut down with the pumps as it's on a different power line.
If all fails guess i'll just have to extend it's line to the tank power control and have it on same plug as the return pumps or maybe feed it via a pump from the frag and have it drain in the partition to it's right so falling right to the sump. Still in this case it's feeding pump is down the line and will feed it chilled water leading to it cycling frequently!
Part of the drain is directed to the water change and Fuge, kept it a small percentage to keep the cryptic region without too much flow. Guess I'll just drain more water into the end part of the fuge.
Thanks for your assistance.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks.
maroun.c
New member
And some early Scaping attempts.
Needed something that would accentuate the tank deapth and have a 3D effect. Scap had to go higher from Rght to left so that viewing the tank from the RT side one would see an ascending structure with many of the corals still visible.
Not sure if I should still make it a bit higher than this or not. Any suggetsions are welcome.
Front View:
Rt Side view:
Lt side viewed from above
Rt side viewed from above
Top view from backside.
LT Island:
This one definitly will be a bit higher and will get a bit more creative in a couple of bridges
Middle island.
The obliquity and ascending from front to back bridge on this one should show the deaoth of the tank better.
Viewed from the RT side.
And a couple of islands on the RT side:
Needed something that would accentuate the tank deapth and have a 3D effect. Scap had to go higher from Rght to left so that viewing the tank from the RT side one would see an ascending structure with many of the corals still visible.
Not sure if I should still make it a bit higher than this or not. Any suggetsions are welcome.
Front View:
Rt Side view:
Lt side viewed from above
Rt side viewed from above
Top view from backside.
LT Island:
This one definitly will be a bit higher and will get a bit more creative in a couple of bridges
Middle island.
The obliquity and ascending from front to back bridge on this one should show the deaoth of the tank better.
Viewed from the RT side.
And a couple of islands on the RT side:
WOOOOHOOOOOO
Feels great to see a house build around the tank! Love the well planned build and the clear attention to detail. Must be really pleasing to finally start such a long planned upgrade.
Should have posted a link to this thread on your old build thread so that your followers can find you!!!
Can't wait for the tank to be started to see some nice photography. Then even your glass and wood shots on this thread are work of art. Hope all goes well with your build.
Feels great to see a house build around the tank! Love the well planned build and the clear attention to detail. Must be really pleasing to finally start such a long planned upgrade.
Should have posted a link to this thread on your old build thread so that your followers can find you!!!
Can't wait for the tank to be started to see some nice photography. Then even your glass and wood shots on this thread are work of art. Hope all goes well with your build.
Edward Ducharme
New member
Looking good so far, can't wait to see this progress. I love these huge tanks.
Taqpol
New member
If its still possible to work it into the plans, on a tank that size I would feel much more comfortable having 1.5" overflows on the main tank. They handle significantly more water and they would also be a lot quieter.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/PlumbingPix/Oneinchart.htm
Looking really good though, definitely following along!
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/PlumbingPix/Oneinchart.htm
Looking really good though, definitely following along!
maroun.c
New member
Hello Fred,
Thanks for the compliments. Yep can't imagine how good it feels to finally see things moving. Will post a link on my old build thread.
