maroun.c
New member
Thanks Edward.
Maroun.c 390 G build thread
- Thread starter maroun.c
- Start date
Thanks Edward.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks for the tip. The original plan was to go with 3-4 1" drains.
Will see if I can find 1.5" Bulkheads here and if they'll fit in the space provided for the overflow. I'm sure the holes won't make much difference it's the Dursos that will become much bigger.
Do you think 4 1" drains won't be enough?
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Taqpol
New member
1" pipe is supposed to handle about 300 gph easily, safely, and quietly, but definitely not the 600 gph most manufacturers claim. If you're going to be putting ~1200gph through the main tank after head loss then four 1" pipes should be fine. That being said, two 1.5" pipes can flow more water then four 1" pipes, if that helps.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks for the info.
Will definitly check for 1.5" Bulkheads as soon as I fly back end of this week.
Won't be able to order online from the states as then I'll struggle with Inch/metric tube sizes...
I'm planning at least 2000 GPH as I'll have a second return pump as backup and might be adding a return pump on an Oceans Motions wavemaker for some directional intermittent flown that I can orient as I like...
Maroun. Looking at your schematic of the entire setup it looks like your isolaeted fuge and RDSB are draining back into the sump then being pumped to the display. I've seen people have these gravity drain straight into the tank so the Copepods aren't destroyed by the impeller of the pump. Just a suggestion and you may have something planned I already missed.
maroun.c
New member
Makes sense and had thoguht about it unfortunatly after the inwall tubing was done. As you can see in pic the tubes to and from the fishroom were made lower than the tank, so I'm not sure if putting 2 elbows and having the water flow upwards 3-4 foot to a level just one foot below it's point of origin from the fishroom will still allow a good drain or not? will there be risk of air locks in the tubing?
add to that the bubbles coming down from the drain as even with Dursos you can minimize but not cancel all those bubbles which will eb ocnverted into a microbubble issue by the pumps?
any suggestions on this?
I agree with your statement on going vertical with the water again. Be difficult to not trap air with only being gravity fed from above. Just an option would be to get rid of the refungium below the tank and enlarge the one above. It's always easier to work on things where you have more space plus you would get additional room to add more things in your lower sump. Maybe a larger top off, etc...
maroun.c
New member
Thanks for your suggestions damcnutt.
Can't go with in Sump Top off Reservoir as that will take away from needed space for water rise when the return pumps are shut off. So I planed for an external reservoir. Will recalculate and see if that might work. As it might save me in stand space. What volume for Top off would you go for (not going with an automaticly filled reservoir for safety)
As for the Refugium going up that won't be possible as there is aprobablility that there will be no fuge on the fishroom if the chiller ends up heating it a lot (still have ot check efficiency of its vent) also maintaining the fuge up becomes a hassle due to the difficult access so I went with this design to have 2 chambers fuge in sump which can handle the tank alone, and if the fishroom setup works then might switch the fuge up and convert those into two small fragging tanks one for high flow and one for medium flow corals... not sure if I should go from the start with the RDSB in one of those chambers.
Can't go with in Sump Top off Reservoir as that will take away from needed space for water rise when the return pumps are shut off. So I planed for an external reservoir. Will recalculate and see if that might work. As it might save me in stand space. What volume for Top off would you go for (not going with an automaticly filled reservoir for safety)
As for the Refugium going up that won't be possible as there is aprobablility that there will be no fuge on the fishroom if the chiller ends up heating it a lot (still have ot check efficiency of its vent) also maintaining the fuge up becomes a hassle due to the difficult access so I went with this design to have 2 chambers fuge in sump which can handle the tank alone, and if the fishroom setup works then might switch the fuge up and convert those into two small fragging tanks one for high flow and one for medium flow corals... not sure if I should go from the start with the RDSB in one of those chambers.
maroun.c
New member
DIY Glass sump assembled and water tested.
This is the biggest tank I have made so far myself and so far it looks good with no leaks or bowing.
Sump holds around 120G (440L) of water
60x26x18" (150x65x45cm)
Sump will handle around 40G (150 L) of water backflowing when return pumps are shut down which should accomodate the volume drained from tank and fishroom.
skimmers partition is 16x26x10" (40x65x25cm) then a 18G (65 L) Return partition and a couple 16G 60L partitions 12x26x12" (30x65x30cm) partitions which will act as Fuges and might be converted into inline frag tanks when the Fishroom in functional.
This is the biggest tank I have made so far myself and so far it looks good with no leaks or bowing.
Sump holds around 120G (440L) of water
60x26x18" (150x65x45cm)
Sump will handle around 40G (150 L) of water backflowing when return pumps are shut down which should accomodate the volume drained from tank and fishroom.
skimmers partition is 16x26x10" (40x65x25cm) then a 18G (65 L) Return partition and a couple 16G 60L partitions 12x26x12" (30x65x30cm) partitions which will act as Fuges and might be converted into inline frag tanks when the Fishroom in functional.
maroun.c
New member
Finally got to go see the Wall unit, the builder opted to display it for us at his workshop to see it, to avoid changes to be made after it's installed...
The wall unit is the cause of all the delay of this build. It was supposed to be delivered around August but then we decided to have the wall unit installed before the stand is positioned to make sure the wood and glass are flush against each other. I'm sure the stand and tank on top won't be movable without giving us a hernia and damaging the flooring...
Got to see it with the wife on day one and with Youssef (friend reefer and architect who designed it..) and honestly I can't really tell which of both visits was harder on the builder
End result both visits came out with a few last minute changes which will delay delivery even further. I'm hoping to get it installed before 2 weeks.
Full View:
Side view from secons seating area, Will get a wider view than I hoped...
Side cabinets just close to the tank will be left empty and will have an open side on the tank to make access easier
Side Cabinets.
And view from the tanks side:
Big Thanks to Youssef and Eddy.
The wall unit is the cause of all the delay of this build. It was supposed to be delivered around August but then we decided to have the wall unit installed before the stand is positioned to make sure the wood and glass are flush against each other. I'm sure the stand and tank on top won't be movable without giving us a hernia and damaging the flooring...
Got to see it with the wife on day one and with Youssef (friend reefer and architect who designed it..) and honestly I can't really tell which of both visits was harder on the builder
End result both visits came out with a few last minute changes which will delay delivery even further. I'm hoping to get it installed before 2 weeks.
Full View:
Side view from secons seating area, Will get a wider view than I hoped...
Side cabinets just close to the tank will be left empty and will have an open side on the tank to make access easier
Side Cabinets.
And view from the tanks side:
Big Thanks to Youssef and Eddy.
launchnukes
New member
Wow! Can't wait to see what it looks like finished.
