Maroun.c 390 G build thread
- Thread starter maroun.c
- Start date
Sump
Went with a simple sump designl. Water goes in from left to right. 1st is Skimmer partition which will become a frag or fuge area afterwards as I'm upgrading to an external skimmer. Next partition will be a DSB and a Fuge. Yep that's right I still believe in DSB at least remote ones so I can take it out or restart it if needed. after that is a second set of baffles and the return area with 2 outputs of 2 external return pumps. reactors will be placed in this partition or maybe on top of the sump Stand.
Got two sets of baffles with 5 cm separation between the baffles for slower water flow which give more time for bubbles to burst.Reason for this is that I expect to run around 5-6000 GPH through it as it will be handling the DT, Frag tanks system, Cube tank and potential additional Tanks.Also will have water draining from tank to the basement so around a 5 meters drop.
Sump should be able to handle around 230 litres of water draining back to it when return pumps are turned off and that should be enough for all the water in the piping and tanks.
Wanted to go even larger but the limiting factor was the stand size we could fit through the basement door, Ended up with a 68x28x20 or 160G Sump.
Most important is that it's another DIY project and the biggest glass tank I've built myself so far.
installing the baffles
The finished product
In place
Water Testing done and filled with new saltwater to startup the cycle.
Glad to see this thread back to live.
I'm amazed with your glass sump build. I'm sure if I ever tempted that it would result in a big flood. and the silicone seams look professionally made, better than many DT quality work out there.
Will all that planned flow go through the fuge as well? isn't that too much?
Crazy_Beaver
New member
It looks like you we're a bit busy!
maroun.c
New member
I always have my doubts when building a tank or sump. Initial fil is always very stressful, yet I've been lucky so far.
As for the flow through the fuge, my current sump has two fuge partitions and one has much more flow than the other where the other only has teh flow coming from the top and draining from the top as well. I can see a lot of difference in both where the one with more flow doesn't have slimy alga or cyano buildup which happens frequently in the one with lower flow.
Also the sump is 28 inches wide which I believe will lead to slower water movement.
Worse case scenario I can drain some of the frag tanks or chillers in a bubble trap in the last partition on right to decrease flow if it's indeed too much.
maroun.c
New member
maroun.c
New member
Final basement plans:
Frag Tanks and Cube which were on the right side of the room had to be moved to the opposite side. This was a good chance to workout all the electrical and tubing mess that occurred with the addition of the cube and additional frag tank to the initial single frag tank.
Frag Tank and Nano Cube moved to position.
This is still a temporary setup and a new electrical panel and hard plumbing will be added soon to connect the frag tanks and Cube to the sump.
Frag Tanks and Cube which were on the right side of the room had to be moved to the opposite side. This was a good chance to workout all the electrical and tubing mess that occurred with the addition of the cube and additional frag tank to the initial single frag tank.
Frag Tank and Nano Cube moved to position.
This is still a temporary setup and a new electrical panel and hard plumbing will be added soon to connect the frag tanks and Cube to the sump.
syedjilani
Active member
:thumbsup:
maroun.c
New member
Sump fill up and seeding.
Filled the refugium with 2.5" of 0.2-0.3 mm sand and then another 1.5 inch of 0.5 mm. Will still gradually add 1" of live sand from teh top of my currently running fuge.
Lately my tanks haven't had good success with heavy pod population. So I decided to seed the sump and let it run for few coming weeks while all plumbing is being done. Got a couple of buckets of alga from a friends tank that's literally infested with pods and bristleworms and other microlife.
These were slowly left to release from perforated containers over a few days and then all alga was removed. Repeated this process twice.
Started the sump circulation adding a pump that takes the water from rt to left and then it makes its way back. Also added few pieces of LR from my current sumps. then I started feeding few pellets and frozen foods every 3-4 days to feed the microlife.
Installed the Bulkheads and caped tubing from the Right side end of the sump.These will connect later on to 2 Iwaki MD70 RLT which will push the water around 16 ft up to the tank,these are rated for 1536 GPH and a maximum head of 31.8ft
Filled the refugium with 2.5" of 0.2-0.3 mm sand and then another 1.5 inch of 0.5 mm. Will still gradually add 1" of live sand from teh top of my currently running fuge.
Lately my tanks haven't had good success with heavy pod population. So I decided to seed the sump and let it run for few coming weeks while all plumbing is being done. Got a couple of buckets of alga from a friends tank that's literally infested with pods and bristleworms and other microlife.
These were slowly left to release from perforated containers over a few days and then all alga was removed. Repeated this process twice.
Started the sump circulation adding a pump that takes the water from rt to left and then it makes its way back. Also added few pieces of LR from my current sumps. then I started feeding few pellets and frozen foods every 3-4 days to feed the microlife.
Installed the Bulkheads and caped tubing from the Right side end of the sump.These will connect later on to 2 Iwaki MD70 RLT which will push the water around 16 ft up to the tank,these are rated for 1536 GPH and a maximum head of 31.8ft
maroun.c
New member
Had 2 openings made in the wall above the sump with sliding glass installed.
Also added a couple of smaller vents on the opposite side of the basement and this way I have natural airflow even without fans. Will install glass covers on them to control how much air exchange I want.
Will add a stand on those brackets and place the 2x1 HP chillers in front of the opening so that when they're running they will take hot air from the room to the outside. Still debating how to close it with sliding glass and still be able to close it in the winter time with the chillers in front of it.
Also added a couple of smaller vents on the opposite side of the basement and this way I have natural airflow even without fans. Will install glass covers on them to control how much air exchange I want.
Will add a stand on those brackets and place the 2x1 HP chillers in front of the opening so that when they're running they will take hot air from the room to the outside. Still debating how to close it with sliding glass and still be able to close it in the winter time with the chillers in front of it.
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
Great progression and attention to detail. Cant wait for the next set of pics.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks Fred,
Its not your typical house basement, Its a floor level apartment in a building with a separate basement room under the apartment. Outside of it is a parking from the back side and on the front side it faces a valley so the front side is above ground. wind usually blows from the valley side so this is why I made the small opening facing there and a couple of windows on the back side into the parking.
Thanks, Next couple of updates should get more interesting:beer:
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
Interesting? You lied. Those are all freakin awesome.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks.
maroun.c
New member
Modded my RO:
Added a second 100GPD RO casing
Can start either or both RO to either have 100 or 200 GPD based on need.
I can also assign one of the RO units for drinking water and have a fixed TDS valve setting instead of fiddling with the TDS valve each time I switch from aquarium to drinking water.
Added a second 100GPD RO casing
Can start either or both RO to either have 100 or 200 GPD based on need.
I can also assign one of the RO units for drinking water and have a fixed TDS valve setting instead of fiddling with the TDS valve each time I switch from aquarium to drinking water.
maroun.c
New member
And to get to the interesting Stuff, Stage two of the build is to take down the sump and all the filtration of the tank to the basement and to connect it to the new sump I made downstairs as well as connect the 2 frag tanks and future ones and my cube to the same sump. This will be done gradually over coming weeks.
1st step will be to have the plumber come to drill the floor (6inches of steel reinforced cement) that I have under the tank. for this a Coring machine will be used which will make 2x4 inch holes through which 2x 1.5 drains and 2x1 inch returns, and multiple electrical cables will run.
1 major factor here is to plan the plumbers availability with a day where the wife is not at home as I can't imagine how she'll react to seeing me drill large holes in the reception area.
The look on the guy in the plumbing store was unforgettable when he learned that 100ft of (1.5-1.25 and 1 inch tubing) + a load of accessories for my aquarium.
1st step will be to have the plumber come to drill the floor (6inches of steel reinforced cement) that I have under the tank. for this a Coring machine will be used which will make 2x4 inch holes through which 2x 1.5 drains and 2x1 inch returns, and multiple electrical cables will run.
1 major factor here is to plan the plumbers availability with a day where the wife is not at home as I can't imagine how she'll react to seeing me drill large holes in the reception area.
The look on the guy in the plumbing store was unforgettable when he learned that 100ft of (1.5-1.25 and 1 inch tubing) + a load of accessories for my aquarium.
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
I wouldve been shocked to. He was probably like, man thats all my inventory.
