Matt's 5000ltr Display
- Thread starter d3hree
- Start date
prop-frags
SPS Slave
Looking forward to seeing the pics...
d3hree
New member
Sorry for the delay and lack of pictures of late, hopefully my next few posts will go some way in making amends.
Continuing building the stands for the support tanks:
The masking tape line that you can just make out represents where the quarantine tank will be.
Did a little more to the ATO ro unit ( 100gpd)
The red waste pipe feeds into a 32mm white waste pipe that circles the room and will allow me to syphon drain the other tanks
What will be the frag tank is installed with a 6x39w t5 unit
The 440w UV unit's pipework extends up through the work surface
I added ball valves to both the in and out plus a bypass that will make changing the UV bulbs a little easier.
Continuing building the stands for the support tanks:
The masking tape line that you can just make out represents where the quarantine tank will be.
Did a little more to the ATO ro unit ( 100gpd)
The red waste pipe feeds into a 32mm white waste pipe that circles the room and will allow me to syphon drain the other tanks
What will be the frag tank is installed with a 6x39w t5 unit
The 440w UV unit's pipework extends up through the work surface
I added ball valves to both the in and out plus a bypass that will make changing the UV bulbs a little easier.
d3hree
New member
I built the stand for the 600ltr RDSB and the 600ltr cryptic zone that sits above it.
Where the RDSB will sit I added some 9mm rubber flooring. The original idea was that the RDSB was going to sit on the tiles so the rubber flooring was to eliminate as much heat transfer through to the tiles as possible. As it transpired the floor levels are different so the base of the vat had to be raised 6"
This pic shows the central heating pipes to the radiator plus the 32 mm waste pipe that circles the room.
The waste terminates at the drain and slightly slopes around the room.
Before installing the frag tank I placed polystyrene underneath and also installed the twin 54w ballast that will light the algae tank with 6500k underneath the frag tank.
This vat is 500ltrs and will be the return section. The large pipe is what I have come to call the "just in case pipe" I struggled to work out exactly the running height of the lower vats considering the surge tank. If there is a powercut when the surge has just fired there will be an extra 200-300 ltrs of water in the system, the mouth to the "just in case" pipe is the lowest point of the system so if need be the water will drain down through this to the floor drain.
The two 40mm bulkheads will feed the return pumps.
I will be using laguna pumps throughout the build. 2 x 16000lph returns and 4x16000lph closed loop pumps. I am a big fan of these pumps, to push 16k lph they use only 160w. They have the same motor block as the much desired red dragon pumps but only cost £160/$252.48 each.
The single downside is that once you remove them from the filter basket (intended for pond use) their base is curved so they dont sit easily when using them as an external pump.
Where the RDSB will sit I added some 9mm rubber flooring. The original idea was that the RDSB was going to sit on the tiles so the rubber flooring was to eliminate as much heat transfer through to the tiles as possible. As it transpired the floor levels are different so the base of the vat had to be raised 6"
This pic shows the central heating pipes to the radiator plus the 32 mm waste pipe that circles the room.
The waste terminates at the drain and slightly slopes around the room.
Before installing the frag tank I placed polystyrene underneath and also installed the twin 54w ballast that will light the algae tank with 6500k underneath the frag tank.
This vat is 500ltrs and will be the return section. The large pipe is what I have come to call the "just in case pipe" I struggled to work out exactly the running height of the lower vats considering the surge tank. If there is a powercut when the surge has just fired there will be an extra 200-300 ltrs of water in the system, the mouth to the "just in case" pipe is the lowest point of the system so if need be the water will drain down through this to the floor drain.
The two 40mm bulkheads will feed the return pumps.
I will be using laguna pumps throughout the build. 2 x 16000lph returns and 4x16000lph closed loop pumps. I am a big fan of these pumps, to push 16k lph they use only 160w. They have the same motor block as the much desired red dragon pumps but only cost £160/$252.48 each.
The single downside is that once you remove them from the filter basket (intended for pond use) their base is curved so they dont sit easily when using them as an external pump.
d3hree
New member
Hi jt09. Thanks for the compliment and thanks for stopping by. After two years of planning and nearly a year of building so far i am looking forward to seeing the build completed, thats when the hard work begins!
Hi SeabassSA, happy to have you along for the ride.
Hi Mike, hope you are well. Hopefully these pics give you an idea of progress.
Stop your whining ladies. Pics above and below. No Stew, the tank isnt fibreglassed as yet. Nor is the tube, whatever that is?
d3hree
New member
Thanks Dave.
Due to the awkward base of the Laguna pumps once they are removed from the filter basket I needed to devise a way of supporting them. These pumps are pretty silent and dont shake uncontrollably, some hobbyists havent bothered fashioning a support for them and have just left them as is resting on the glass base of a sump. Because my pumps will be used externally I wanted to support them somehow.
So I made a wooden stand.
I sealed the wood with pva and then glued 3mm rubber to it. Where the pumps would sit I used the anti fatigue flooring rubber so that the pump squashes in and the foam/rubber moulds around it.
Here are the pumps sat on their stand in situ.
d3hree
New member
With the pumps in place I was able to start pluming in the return pipework.
The ball valves closest to the pumps are for servicing. The valves from the "t's" will control the amount of flow that is returned to the return vat just incase the weir and associated plumbing cant handle 32000lph. I dont expect 32000lph as there is a 2 metre head height and the curves indicate that I will be getting closer to 22000 lph but just in case I installed the valves. The valves furthest away from the pumps are just so I can run them whilst i finish the other plumbing. i may use this tank to wash sand...seed some rock..etc etc.
The ball valve with the blue circle was left over from a build i did a few years ago. The handle is beginning to bug me as it doesnt match the others so I will be swapping it out.
One of the return pumps will run through the UV before returning to the tank, the other will run through the heater.
I will also be rewiring the heater with black flex
The ball valves closest to the pumps are for servicing. The valves from the "t's" will control the amount of flow that is returned to the return vat just incase the weir and associated plumbing cant handle 32000lph. I dont expect 32000lph as there is a 2 metre head height and the curves indicate that I will be getting closer to 22000 lph but just in case I installed the valves. The valves furthest away from the pumps are just so I can run them whilst i finish the other plumbing. i may use this tank to wash sand...seed some rock..etc etc.
The ball valve with the blue circle was left over from a build i did a few years ago. The handle is beginning to bug me as it doesnt match the others so I will be swapping it out.
One of the return pumps will run through the UV before returning to the tank, the other will run through the heater.
I will also be rewiring the heater with black flex
d3hree
New member
Begining to look a little like a fish room now that I have started the plumbing
A bit more done.
This is the surge feed. I have a 9000lph pump that at a head height of 3.6 metres will give me 600lph. I am working on the surge being approximately 200 ltrs so with the current pump it will fire every 20mins or so. At this point I think i am happy with that but I cant promise I wont change my mind and swap out the pump for one that will fire the surge more frequently.
The additional pipe installed below is the surge overflow. 40mm pipe that will terminate as a standpipe inside the surge tank. Any issues with the float switches sticking or the actuated valve not opening then the water will overflow into this pipe and back to the sump. It should be just a quick visual check to see if water is coming out of this pipe to notify me of a problem.
Here is the surge feed pump. There isnt any need for me to remove it from its basket.
The white acylic is a filter sock holder. The skimmer effluent will return through here. The filtersock will be filled with carbon as i am injecting the skimmer with ozone.
A bit more done.
This is the surge feed. I have a 9000lph pump that at a head height of 3.6 metres will give me 600lph. I am working on the surge being approximately 200 ltrs so with the current pump it will fire every 20mins or so. At this point I think i am happy with that but I cant promise I wont change my mind and swap out the pump for one that will fire the surge more frequently.
The additional pipe installed below is the surge overflow. 40mm pipe that will terminate as a standpipe inside the surge tank. Any issues with the float switches sticking or the actuated valve not opening then the water will overflow into this pipe and back to the sump. It should be just a quick visual check to see if water is coming out of this pipe to notify me of a problem.
Here is the surge feed pump. There isnt any need for me to remove it from its basket.
The white acylic is a filter sock holder. The skimmer effluent will return through here. The filtersock will be filled with carbon as i am injecting the skimmer with ozone.
d3hree
New member
The main RO unit for water changes is a merlin 750gpd. These RO units have recieved a bit of bashing on forums but I chose it because my in coming tds is only about 68.
I have my tds meter set up so that the "in" is after the membrane and the "out" is after the DI.
As you can see I am getting 0 after the membrane even before the DI.
I have an 11ltr DI pod on this unit
I have my tds meter set up so that the "in" is after the membrane and the "out" is after the DI.
As you can see I am getting 0 after the membrane even before the DI.
I have an 11ltr DI pod on this unit
