Matt's 5000ltr Display
- Thread starter d3hree
- Start date
d3hree
New member
Right that pretty much covers most of the planning. I still have some things to resolve but you are pretty much caught up.
From here on out it will be a slow build as work is dictating that I have no spare time at the moment.
I managed to make a start at Christmas so i can bring you up to speed with actual pictures.
This is the space where the tank will sit. The left wall as you look is an external wall and through which leads to the garage/fish room.
You can see the remnants of a fireplace hearth on the floor. There was a chimney breast against this wall which I had removed and the wall plastered in preparation for putting the tank here.
From here on out it will be a slow build as work is dictating that I have no spare time at the moment.
I managed to make a start at Christmas so i can bring you up to speed with actual pictures.
This is the space where the tank will sit. The left wall as you look is an external wall and through which leads to the garage/fish room.
You can see the remnants of a fireplace hearth on the floor. There was a chimney breast against this wall which I had removed and the wall plastered in preparation for putting the tank here.
d3hree
New member
Yes I work as an 3D illustrator, I normally draw stuff like this however so planning the tank in 3d was quite enjoyable and quite worthwhile to have a virtual set of drawings to work by.
Neogenocide
New member
The reminds me a bit of Need for Speed. Great work!!!
d3hree
New member
Before I went too far i was advised by a structural engineer to drill down into the concrete to ensure that it was a substantial thickness. The fear was that it was only an inch or so deep and then rubble. If this was the case I would have had to have a concrete slab poured to withstand the weight.
Luckily the concrete foundation was over 8" thick.
Luckily the concrete foundation was over 8" thick.
d3hree
New member
Before I started the stand I ran the cable for the electrics.
16mm (80amp) cable will run from the meter in the house via a 80amp switch. It will run into the fish room area to a new consumer board from which all the electrics for the tank will run.
All the cables will have fused spur switches under the tank so that the equipment can be controlled tank side aswell as from the fish room.
16mm (80amp) cable will run from the meter in the house via a 80amp switch. It will run into the fish room area to a new consumer board from which all the electrics for the tank will run.
All the cables will have fused spur switches under the tank so that the equipment can be controlled tank side aswell as from the fish room.
d3hree
New member
Thanks Ksed,
I chose the fibreglass and resin route for strength really. I feel that when it is done it will be pretty strong and I will not have any concerns in climbing on top of the tank myself which is something I wouldnt do with a conventional tank.
When you say PVC do you mean the pond liners? If so although I think they are a viable method of lining a plywood tank I dont feel that they add to the structural integrity of the build. Therefore it is the plywood that is the strength.
When using fibreglass and then epoxy resin over the top of the plywood they become infinately stronger than the plywood itself. The whole tank becomes a solid structure.
HTH
Cheers
Matt
d3hree
New member
I tried to fix the stand to the joists where possible to add further structural support. Where the joists were not square to the stand I had to add small noggins to pack the uprights. This is the reason the front to back depth ended up being 52" instead of the planned 48"...nevermind.
In this pic you can see the 6x2" timber that acts as a base for all the uprights. This is to displace the weight over a greater surface than just the upright.
In this pic you can see the 6x2" timber that acts as a base for all the uprights. This is to displace the weight over a greater surface than just the upright.
