Maxima or Corcea clam lighting question
- Thread starter mussel20
- Start date
its more about the light penetration then watts per g. the two types of clams that you listed that you want to keep are the most light demanding of them all. PC's have the light (energy)spread out along the whole length of the bulb,where as a MH would have it coming from a single point.so the energy can penetrate a lot deeper, but its still not that simple.
you will find a ton of people that will say ,yes you can,but what im trying to say is that it wouldn't be the best for the clam,and the clam may make it for a while(and look good doing it)but then all of the sudden,what happened to my clam.
clams are not like corals. they farm there zoo and feed off of them. not just feed on there waste like corals do.they need to have a high reproduction rate of zoo to feed and grow and look great.
you will find a ton of people that will say ,yes you can,but what im trying to say is that it wouldn't be the best for the clam,and the clam may make it for a while(and look good doing it)but then all of the sudden,what happened to my clam.
clams are not like corals. they farm there zoo and feed off of them. not just feed on there waste like corals do.they need to have a high reproduction rate of zoo to feed and grow and look great.
In my opinion you should not try a Crocea or Maxima. PC's just aren't intense enough for clams. You maybe could try one of the less light demanding, but the two you choose require the most intense lighting. I agree with the other person on watts per gallon. 250w of MH is way more intense then 250 watts of PC.
PsychoKnight
New member
Re: Maxima or Corcea clam lighting question
On larger and more mature tanks, managed by reefers w/ many years of experience, wouldn't you agree clams are usually on, or near the bottom?
The underside of the mantle and the shell just doesn't compare to the colorful topside. It seems people with dedicated clam tanks keep them in shallow canopy-less breeder tanks, with a very intense MH way up high to facilitate looking straight down at the clams instead of trying to find a good sideways viewing angle on a clam way up there.
Its like my very beautiful purple lobster, first marine animal I ever bought. Haven't seen more than a claw of him since day one. What's the point?
mussel20 said:
On larger and more mature tanks, managed by reefers w/ many years of experience, wouldn't you agree clams are usually on, or near the bottom?
The underside of the mantle and the shell just doesn't compare to the colorful topside. It seems people with dedicated clam tanks keep them in shallow canopy-less breeder tanks, with a very intense MH way up high to facilitate looking straight down at the clams instead of trying to find a good sideways viewing angle on a clam way up there.
Its like my very beautiful purple lobster, first marine animal I ever bought. Haven't seen more than a claw of him since day one. What's the point?
I agree MHs would in general be better, but it is possible to keep clams under PCs. Just for a point of reference, I have a 50gal tank that's 16 inches deep, with 3 96-watt PCs over it. My Derasa has doubled in size to about 6" since I've owned it, and the Crocea is doing well although not growing nearly as fast as the Derasa.
Larry
masterswimmer
New member
I also agree with the concensus, no to both the maxima & crocea. You might be able to keep a derasa way up high, but just like PsychoKnight said, why would you want to look at the shell and underside of the mantle? All the coloration is on the top.
The reference to the point source of light (MH) and the linear source of light (PC's) explains the efficacy of each source very well.
Everyones suggestions here are very much on the money, I hope you heed their advice.
Russ
The reference to the point source of light (MH) and the linear source of light (PC's) explains the efficacy of each source very well.
Everyones suggestions here are very much on the money, I hope you heed their advice.
Russ
grimmjohn
New member
I've posted this before..only your tank is more aplicable than the tank I orginally posted about...() : )
grimmjohn said:So the problem with PCs is that they don't produce enough PAR?
I know they're worse than most. But...
From August 2003 AA
This article included a pic of the left and right side of the tanks, for simplicity I only used one side.
I admit the PAR on this one sucks, he must be using only actinics or something judging from the color. But a clam could still live in the top right corner.
75 gallon system
System: 4 x 96W Compact FL bulbs.
Bulbs 5.5ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ off the water.
Reflector: Standard flat mirrored retrofit kit
So what's the oft quoted PARmin for high light clams? I think its like 200 or 250...so by PAR alone there are several places in this tank you could put a clam.
125 gallon system
System: 6 x 55W CF tubes. Consists of 10,000K, 6,700K and ââ"šÂ¬Ã‹Å“Actinicââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢.
Bulbs 5.5ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ off the water.
Reflector: Standard flat mirrored retrofit kit
But no one would tell you that you can't keep a crocea at the bottom of a tank under 250W Ushios right???
120G
So keeping a crocea just about anywhere in the 125 gallon tank with 330W of PC is at least equivilent to keeping one at the bottom of a 120 under 500 watts of Ushio MH?
Or to be fair since we're only seeing half the PC tank...62Gs with 165W of PC versus 60Gs with 250 Ushios (just pick a side to look at cause I'm not gonna cut that one it half)
cheers,
grimmjohn
masterswimmer
New member
grimmjohn, then you be the guinea pig and let us know how it works out. I see your pictures with the par ratings, but that doesn't explain why so many have tried and failed.
Good luck with this new test. I just don't buy it.
Good luck with this new test. I just don't buy it.
grimmjohn
New member
You're absolutly right...what other reasons could there be for a clam to die? How many people with 500W of PC and dead clams do you know? How many people with 500W of MH and dead clams?masterswimmer said:
People with MHs try and fail too?
God only knows the reasons...but you can't argue with the numbers.
If you'll pay for a couple hundred watts of PC for me I'll be more than happy to try () : )
Cheers,
grimmjohn
Kirklan
Clam Addict!
Why are the MH lights 15.5" above the waters surface? I don't know anyone who has their MH that high. So what? On 30" high tank and the MH 15.5" (45.5" total) above the surface, your reading PAR levels 185 at the bottom. Seems pretty good to me. Mine are currently 8" above the surface of the water. Just an observation, but if you want the readings to be acurate you would need to place them somewhat to same distance as the PC lighting. Put the MH 5.5" above the waters surface and read the PAR. I think it will be a little higher.
Just wondering, what amount of time would a clam have to thrive for it to be OK under pc's? Iv'e had 2 for over 8 months that are opening and growing fully under 8X65 in a 90 gal. 24" deep tank. (on the sand bed) You all have me a little worried. Will they slowly fade away, or is a quick process? Also, all the talk about putting them on a rock. I have seen many tanks where they are tipped on rocks and look great.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=109861&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998
I just grabbed one out of the photo gallery
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=109861&papass=&sort=1&thecat=998
I just grabbed one out of the photo gallery
Kirklan
Clam Addict!
Mcflury - If it's not broke, don't fix it. After 8 months your clams should be fine. Remember that clams get their food from other sources like phytoplankton, nitrates, phosphates as well as what they generate from light and their zooxanthallae. As a generel rule reefers keep their reefs phyto, nitrate, and phosphate free to help with the growth and color of their corals. When this happens the only way your clams get energy is from your light. It is logical to assume that the higher the intensity of the lighting, the happier the clam is. If you have a high nutrient tank (dose phyto, and have nitrates and phos) you could get away with having lower light as the clam does not need to rely on light for its main food source.
grimmjohn
New member
(L x W x H)
120 Gallon 48 1/2 x 24 1/4 x 25 1/2
125 Gallon 72 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 23 3/8
Thats according to a "standard dimensions" website..those could be custom or have different dimensions.
All I've ever read about croceas and maximas and nitrates implies that they have a negligable impact on nutrients..except for in nanos..or in cases where someone is raising lots of babies.
They supposedly "starve to death" around 6 months or so in inadequate lighting.
I second that many awesome tanks have the clams angled out in the rockwork. (Where croceas and maximas are said to be happier anyway than sitting in sand, though most put them on a flat rock and then on the sand, which would be great too)
Cheers,
grimmjohn
120 Gallon 48 1/2 x 24 1/4 x 25 1/2
125 Gallon 72 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 23 3/8
Thats according to a "standard dimensions" website..those could be custom or have different dimensions.
That is pretty good, thats the point...becuase the PCs are doing similar...I think the pic was taken to show that a SE Ushio at ~10" is similar to a DE Ushio at about ~15". If they were closer to the water you would probably get well over 200PAR. Many people with tanks that big keep their lights around 8-15 over the water though. If the tanks were acrylic (as many nice large tanks are) it would not be wise to go less than about 8 for obvious reasons.Kirklan said:
All I've ever read about croceas and maximas and nitrates implies that they have a negligable impact on nutrients..except for in nanos..or in cases where someone is raising lots of babies.
They supposedly "starve to death" around 6 months or so in inadequate lighting.
I second that many awesome tanks have the clams angled out in the rockwork. (Where croceas and maximas are said to be happier anyway than sitting in sand, though most put them on a flat rock and then on the sand, which would be great too)
Cheers,
grimmjohn
