Maxspect Mazarra.

I used a double rack/frame that is available; it is a combination of the A kit and 2 of the D kits. They are supposed to be connected by a 4 inch high pillar on each side, but that proved to be too low in order to open up the glass doors on top of the aquarium, so I ued the 7-8 inch aluminum rods to have the extra space.

I also bought 2 of the E kits that is the 36 inch aluminum rod. The mistake was that I only bought 2 and had to compensate with 8 of the 7-8 inch rods in order to cover the 72 inches. This generated 5 connection points that bowed a little bit (less than 1/2 inch). Solution: I ordered another 2 E kits (36 inches rods) therefore I will only have one connection in the middle of the aquarium therefore improving the structural strength of the frame. I might see if there could be a connecting aluminum part done in the top of the rods that will help the internal fixation rod in order to help in the structural strength, but that will need improvizing on my part.

I have seen the improvement in the electricity from last night. Now I am consuming 480 watts with these LED panels instead of 1,134 watts with the coralife-pro 250 w MH / 4x96 w Compacts. In addition the chiller used to turn on every 50-60 minutes when the MH where on for about 10-15 min (1 hp Oceanic) from 3 pm to 9 pm. Yesterday the chiller only turned on every 2 1/2 to 3 hours for about 10 minutes. You do not want to know how much I pay of electricity for this hobby and that was the mayor reason for the change and investment on these LED modules.

Reading older posts I thought that it was going to be very hard to set up and program the system. It took me about 4 hours to mount the complete rack and modules on top of the aquarium. These 4 hours included determining the spacing, getting the modules to communicate with the controller, getting the preset program to take control, add the weather and the dawn/dusk settings. Then later on last night it took me about 30 minutes to read how to program o a setting myself and now the system is running with my program and not the preset. I know that some people have had problem understanding the instructions and I was very afraid of that, but when it was my time to do it somehow I was able to breeze over it very easily.

I almost forgot, I also used a dremmel to cut out the inside lip of the A kit frame so that it could fit the edge of the top of the aquarium because my aquarium walls are 3/4 inch thick (this is included in my 4 hours of set up). Also I have not fixed all the cables until I get the 2 new E (36") rods in order to finish the job and 2 more LED pannels.

My wife is going to kill me!
 
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I made an error. When I talked about the E Package it should have been the G Package. The G is the 36 inch rods.
 
GusDiaz said:
I just installed 8 modules in my 155 Bow Front. It looks amazing. The PAR measurements are equal to the Coralife 72" with 3 250 MH lamps and 4 Compacts that I took out last night. Hope that works as well as the Coralife has done for so many years with less electrical bill. I am using the 70 degree lens.
Click to expand...

Looks like alot of light! What % are you running them at? How many of your corals have been burned? I have two Mazarra-S in the middle of my tank with T5HO on the side, 150 g 72". I am planning on only having 4 or 5 for the entire tank with my mixed reef.
 
Up to now no coral casualties. I bought on propose a PAR meter so that I could compare the output of the MH that I had with the LED. I am currently running the system at 70% with weather in order to give a break to the system every few minutes. The measurements of PAR are 10% less than the MH at the same measuring points.

I have done these changes several times in the past. For example when I went up from the 72" Coralife Pro 150 w MH to the same set up but with the 250 w MH. I have been doing aquariums set ups at my house for more than 15 years, so I have my share of burning corals in my early years. Time has given me the experience of maintaining them now away from that problem.

Also take into account that my aquarium is wider, longer, deeper, and heavily stocked than a nano of small aquarium, so it can take the amount of units and the PAR measurements proves that I was correct.

I have over 150 punds of live rock and 80 pounds of sand.
 
ejohnson said:
Wow, your tank must look awesome as those lights are really nice.
Click to expand...

I tell you that this hobby has never been easy. My wife calls the aquarium "The Mistress". It is the only mistress that I will be allowed to have, if not she knows a procedure called BOBBITTECTOMY (or Lorena procedure)that I would not like to have performed on me.

But if you think about it the aquarium is kind of like a mistress; it takes all of your available money for retirement, takes all the available free time that you have without your wife, but at least the wife is happy because she knows where I am (in the living room stuck under that aquarium box stand trying to make things work). :headwally:
 
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power supply specifications

power supply specifications

I am seriously considering the MaxSpect Mazarra P, but $85 for the power supply is a little high. Will someone post a picture of the power supply label or if you used a cheaper ps, which unit works.
 
i begining to like my mazarra-s more .. granted my rose bubble doesnt quite look at colorful as it did under the phoenix mh but it is doing well as is all my other corals.
my settings are

11:00am 0/1
3pm 70/75
5pm 70/75
9pm 0/1

so far 3 weeks and no signs of bleaching or lack of light. its hanging 12" awl with 100deg optics. my rba even split so now i have 3..
 
dobly_1999 said:
I am seriously considering the MaxSpect Mazarra P, but $85 for the power supply is a little high. Will someone post a picture of the power supply label or if you used a cheaper ps, which unit works.
Click to expand...

Remember also that one power supply gives energy to 2 panels, so it is not so bad.
 
Gus,

How deep is your DT?

Mine are set to 60% after being set to 50% since I received them. I had one module on only for 2 weeks since the other fell into the water. Now that the repaired one has been back, I kept both at 50%. Yesterday I bumped it up to 60%. One acro colony I burned that first week is coming back.

My Maxima, LT Plate and Frogspawn that I have on the sand bed love the light. When they are on full blast during mid-day they open up so wide. And the polyp extension on my acros is insane. They are out there wagging in the flow.
 
chgoblknazn said:
Gus,

How deep is your DT?

Mine are set to 60% after being set to 50% since I received them. I had one module on only for 2 weeks since the other fell into the water. Now that the repaired one has been back, I kept both at 50%. Yesterday I bumped it up to 60%. One acro colony I burned that first week is coming back.

My Maxima, LT Plate and Frogspawn that I have on the sand bed love the light. When they are on full blast during mid-day they open up so wide. And the polyp extension on my acros is insane. They are out there wagging in the flow.
Click to expand...

My 155 Bow Front All-Glass aquarium is 72" across, front to back is 18" at the corners and 24" at the center (bow area), and is 26 inches deep. The panels sit about 5 inches from the glass top doors because I used the 8 inch spacer to elevate them instead of the 4 inch that came with the rack; if I would have used the 4 inch spacer then I would not be able to open the top glass doors.

I agree on the coral expansion too. My frogspawn and hammer are opening a lot better with these lights than with the MH. The acros that I have are also opening like with the MH, but I guess that they are used to the amount of light because they were directly under the 250w MH all the time.

I think that the versatility to be able to have weather with these lights help the corals to have a better time. There is no sun that is shining all the time, so having weather capability help the corals to have a "break" of the intensity and therefore protect them. Also, my corals are used to heavy lights and is easier to get them to tolerate a lower less hot light than to get them from low to high (that will burn them).
 
So tonight the "A" LEDs went out on my module a week after the "A" LEDs were fixed on my other module and returned to me last week. I'm losing my mind over here.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
does anybody know how the the Dawn/Dusk works?

Does it start before time setting 1 and time setting 8? Or just does it go on when you turn it on?
 
chgoblknazn said:
So tonight the "A" LEDs went out on my module a week after the "A" LEDs were fixed on my other module and returned to me last week. I'm losing my mind over here.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sorry for you, on my side everything is fine since the first day, i cross my fingers
hoping it stay that way!

Dusk/dawn, with more than 1 unit, you need to set a number one, 2, 3 and so long depending of how many units you have, that setup is done on each unit using there own control buttons. I hope my answer is clear enough, (i'm mostly french speaking)
 
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That is correct. You need to specify the orders of the modules from one side to the other side of the aquarium. I have 6 numbers from left to right (#1 left to #6 right). That way the controller will know what order it needs to set the sun up or down.
 
chgoblknazn said:
So tonight the "A" LEDs went out on my module a week after the "A" LEDs were fixed on my other module and returned to me last week. I'm losing my mind over here.
Click to expand...

Sorry about your lights, I have had no problems with mine. Call CV, maybe they will exchange of check those again. :headwalls:

On one of my modules the fan would not work, I exchange the fan from one of the others that was working and still the one on that module did not work. I opened up the module and found the temp wire to the main plate disconnected from the circuit board, problem fixed.
 
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GusDiaz said:
Sorry about your lights, I have had no problems with mine. Call CV, maybe they will exchange of check those again. :headwalls:

On one of my modules the fan would not work, I exchange the fan from one of the others that was working and still the one on that module did not work. I opened up the module and found the temp wire to the main plate disconnected from the circuit board, problem fixed.
Click to expand...

I've contacted Marine Depot and they have reached out to Chris at CoralVue. I love these lights, but they are testing my patience. I've spent almost $200 over the MSRP on repairs and shipping on a set of lights that I have only had for a month. I'm slowly approaching the cost of 2 Radion units.....which is what I was trying not to do. My acros and clams are not going to be happy.
 
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My chiller used to turn on about 13-15 times during a 24 hour period with the MH. Since I installed the Mazarra-P it only turns on now 4 times every 24 hrs. So I am saving on electricity with the LED and the chiller.
 
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