Melting Zoas

badboyz24

New member
I have a few colonies of zoas in a 72BF under 4 54w T5HO.. and then I moved them into a 75 frag tank under 2 55w 50/50 PC.. and I frag the colonies before putting them into the Frag Tank..

Most of the zoas are not opening like the very beginning when they were first introduced into the Frag Tank.. Some of them look like they are melting and some skinny..

All levels are fine.. Should I be feeding them more often? I feed a little Reef Roids and Coral Frenzy every week..

What could be the problem?
 
I forgot to mention that it's been like that for about a week..

Also, It looks like they are melting against the live rock
 
I've had that happen to me twice. The first time I just watched and they were gone quickly.

The second time, I took them out and did a 30 minute betadyne dip. Blew them off really well, and inspected them with a magnifying glass (found nothing).

I still lost a couple of very small colonies. But I did salvage some.

I don't know what the reason is for this. They were growing like mad, then poof. Water chem didn't change in any way we measure.

Good luck!
 
I too just had the same thing happen to a large colony of Zoas. They just closed up and melted. It spread like a wildfire across the whole rock. Next time i am going to try dipping. I can't handle another loss like that. Especially not to any of my colorful zoas. Why don't the ugly ones ever die?
 
Process of elimination, they were doing great before you fragged them, then moved them to a new tank, with different parameters I presume and different lighting.

1. How long were they in the bowfront?

2. Did you ever have this problem in that tank?

3. You fragged them, which can be fatal if done wrong, which I don't think you did. Sounds like you you knew what you were doing. Fragging is always stressful.

4. Did you test the parameters in both tanks before you moved them to the second tank? If you didn't, you really should have. Why? Fragging, gluing, moving, out of water, into a new tank, different ( reduced lighting, which won't harm them, but another adjustment for them to make after the transition, all of which can and will cause a delayed response in expansion.

5. After you placed them in the frag tank, did you turn on your main lighting source? If you did, you really shouldn't have. The last thing you want to do once the transition is made, whether you are fragging or not, is to blast a stress colony with any lighting other than actinic lighting. Even moon lights are better than a daylight bulb. Giving them but one day to acclimate can make a major difference in their appearance the next day. Been doing it for years and it makes a big difference in waiting just that one day.

A water change loaded with potential trace elements will (almost) always serve as a major pick-me-up for any colony in distress to a certain point. For example, if you are dealing with a major outbreak of BI, a water change isn't going to make a different until you treat the source of the problem.

If they are melting to the point where they have already lost their tube like structure, they aren't coming back. By that I mean they are pinched so bad and shading so to speak, this is a colony that middle stages of decline/failure. I would scrap of the dead, collapsed, melting remnants and focus on the polyps which seem salvageable. After the scraping away of any dead, dying or decaying flesh, follow up with an iodine swab of the surface area of the rock with Lugols and a Q tip. Dip the rock in some tank water and place back into your tank. Anytime, anytime you remove a colony to perform surgery, excision etc, you want to place it back into the place it back in the same place or just inches away from where you took it from. Not allow it to touch anything else as it heals. Flow.......Flow.........Flow.........is terribly important when replacing also. Corals will tend to slim after removal and replacement after a surgery so to speak. The current will aid in the blowing off and/or removal of any slim or expelling that may occur. Keep the tank dark at worse, or run your actinics or moon lights only for the first or second day. None of your corals will suffer as a result of doing this.

If I haven't talked you and myself into a circle already, LOL, sounds like it was a combination of stress, environmental shock/ parameter compatibility, stressed from daylights turned on too soon, polyp damage, or the fragging and moving to a new system all in minutes. I wasn't there, so I can't say for sure, just wanted to give you some possibilities. I wish you the best my friend and I hope they turn around for you.

Sorry for writing a book.


Mucho Reef

PS, everyone, please take a moment to read the polls at the top of this forum and cast your vote. A COMMENT WOULD BE NICE AS WELL, IT WILL REALLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE, YOU'LL SEE. THANKS
 
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1. They were in the 72BF for about 3 weeks

2. Never had this problems (first try at fragging)

4. Yes the parameters were the same ( I actually used the water from the WC on 72BF to the 75 frag tank). Lighting is more due to that the 72BF was 4 x T5HO 54W and 75 frag tank is 2 x 55W PC 50/50. The placement of them was on the bottom of the 72BF and now at half up in the 75 frag tank.

Thanks a bunch for the info
 
Hope you can bring them back. There are a lot of good threads on fragging here on RC. Just do a search and you will find more than enough good information.

Mooch
 
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