Mhucasey's SPS obsession

Love that vid. It's great knowing there is that other world of life going on in the tank..
Give your wrasses a bit of time, the picnic may be a little smaller in the future!

One thing thats nice is that there is a ton of bottom real estate in that tank and so its a lot of ground to cover for the mandarin and red dragonette. The wrasses have been pecking at the rocks, those were swarming too. Its very cool to have homemade food in the tank:)
 
I tried taking some pics with the "Manual" camera app for the iPhone, it did a really nice job of balancing the colors. It has an in-camera white balance so all I had to do was up the exposure and add a touch more saturation to compensate:

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And since its been a while, Pup Pics!:
Buddy:
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Woody:
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Dinky:
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And Lily:
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Matt, its been a while since I have checked in. Everything is looking awesome. Love the potters wrasse. The wife and I were between a longnose hawk and a yellow coris today, we settled on the hawk but the coris sure are a striking yellow. We really wanted a sixbar wrasse that the LFS had, but they get to big for the 65. My bfc is up to .92 haha. That AquaSD ultimate shortcake has to be one of the most vibrant corals I have seen pictures of. And as always love the pup pictures! Keep up the good work my friend.
 
Matt, its been a while since I have checked in. Everything is looking awesome. Love the potters wrasse. The wife and I were between a longnose hawk and a yellow coris today, we settled on the hawk but the coris sure are a striking yellow. We really wanted a sixbar wrasse that the LFS had, but they get to big for the 65. My bfc is up to .92 haha. That AquaSD ultimate shortcake has to be one of the most vibrant corals I have seen pictures of. And as always love the pup pictures! Keep up the good work my friend.

Yeah long time no post! Thanks for the compliments, its nice to see the tank finally doing what its supposed to after a long haul of mystery issues that started after the anemone disaster.

I had a longnose hawk years ago, very cool and unusual fish. I also had a flame hawk, it got belligerent and i needed to get it out of the reef, I ended up fishing for him and catching him with a homemade hook! Stay away from six-line wrasses - they can start out good but almost always end up as Satan in fish form!! The yellow Coris are awesome - inexpensive, striking color, good community fish, and they eat pests...hard to beat that combination. Get that BFC up....its science!
 
I tell ya, those sleeping dogs make me tired. :D

Great looking FTS with the manual settings.

When they sleep on my legs or lap It often is almost impossible to stay awake...we refer to them as "Sleep Vampires":sleep:

I'm quite happy with the manual photo app...i took some underexposed pics as well and have been playing with them in Photoshop.
 
I saw something about this on Marks thread, and its very interesting to consider:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23937521&postcount=305
The issue is that we may be over-lighting our tanks because of the amazing output of the ATI T5 light fixtures. Its an interesting question I have run into twice recently - first, my biggest LFS was saying that he wasn't as interested in bringing in Acros from Australia any more because the tanks they were going into were over-lit. He said they needed way less light to keep their color.

Second, I started going to another LFS that uses all 8 bulb Ati LED power modules. They only run 6 bulbs in the fixtures, 5 blue and one purple, and only the Royal blue LEDs. The fixtures are about 2 feet off the water for shallow ~14-16 inch deep coral show tanks. The corals are doing well. This owner said bringing them any lower caused issues. To me they looked way too high, over a couple of tanks they were closer to 3 feet above the water. The corals looked good though - and no one wants to kill their corals with too little light when they have it available.

On the initial tank of the pair of tanks that I have now, I had very good success with 8 bulbs about 6-7 inches off the water in a 22inch tall tank. I measured par at the dead center of the tank and saw values about 450 or so. I would drop the light lower and sometimes see faster growth, but often worse color in some corals. Specifically, the Stuber Acro looked amazing with light green body and vibrant blue tips near the bottom front of the tank, but a frag of the same coral near the top turned brownish green and the blue almost went away. On that tank I ran a more white mixture with at least one purple bulb.

Also, on that tank, Red planet that was getting 425 PAR was nicely red but lots of green along the base was visible.

I've been seeing more success on my shallow SPS reef with the lights higher up than lower down. I have also seen better results with more blue and less white. I have also noticed that the majority of the stuber acro in the tank has been struggling and brown. The red planet which was green and red in the old tank is solid reddish pink in this one, even though its directly below the edge of a fixture. Many corals are green rather than the colors they should be. Several weeks ago I raised the light from 7 to 8 1/2 inches off the water, and more or less settled on a mix with all blue bulbs but the center two, which are a Fiji purple and an ABS. I saw color improvement in several colonies over the last few weeks, of course there were improvements in other areas too, so it may have been coincidence.

I have decided to raise the light fixtures even more, to just over 10 inches above the water. Ill give this height a week or two to see if there is further improvement. I need to rent the Par meter again and see what 12 bulbs are putting out.

On the 8 bulb fixture, i took a series of readings dead center(i.e. 9inches below water line, center of fixture), and got the following par values for these heights above the water:
4" - 550
5" - 515
6" - 475
7" - 450
8" - 430
10" - 390

So the location for most of the corals in the shallow SPS reef is 4-9" below the water line. The two 6 bulb fixtures are close enough together to act as a 12 bulb fixture.

In comparison, that means when the fixtures are 6"AWL, they are 10-15 inches from the corals. Extrapolating from the 8-bulb fixture, assuming identical output, I may be hitting the upper corals with PAR exceeding 550um. At the lower end maybe 475.

Raising the fixtures to 10" brings the projected numbers down a bit to 515-390. Ill be curious what the tank actually maps out to and how the corals respond....
 
Display is looking awesome Matt, those FTS's are wonderful :thumbsup:
Always good to see the pup gang, too cute for words lol. What app did you use on the iphone if i can ask, those pics are bloody good. :)

Raising the lights is a good idea i think mate, there's not a lot of water between those lights and a lot of your acros.
 
I loooove both FTS buddy:beer:
tank looks amazing!

Curious to see your results with the par meter.
As for the green look in some corals,whenever mine have that look i check my po4.
What's your no3-po4 levels?

How cute are these dogs matt:)
 
Display is looking awesome Matt, those FTS's are wonderful :thumbsup:
Always good to see the pup gang, too cute for words lol. What app did you use on the iphone if i can ask, those pics are bloody good. :)

Raising the lights is a good idea i think mate, there's not a lot of water between those lights and a lot of your acros.

Thanks Andrew, the app is called "Manual Camera - Custom exposure..." By KendiTech. I hope raising the lights helps, I have been conditioned for a long time to think "Throw as much light at the corals as can be produced"...
 
I loooove both FTS buddy:beer:
tank looks amazing!

Curious to see your results with the par meter.
As for the green look in some corals,whenever mine have that look i check my po4.
What's your no3-po4 levels?

How cute are these dogs matt:)
Thanks Mike, I finally can get a FTS that doesn't look like a blue blur!
I haven't had a PO4 reading above 0.00 in almost a year Mike, and zero algae(other than on the glass) to back that up. I keep Nitrate at 2-5ppm and have been there for a long time. I have read that excessive light, especially blue light, can trigger overproduction of green pigment though...
 
Of course I'll be extremely interested to know how raising the lights does for you!

Have you though about trying the Giesemann Aquablue Azure instead of that horribly colored ABS? :artist: For my eyes the GABA provides the yellow light some acros need but has much better color rendition than the greenish ABS.

I've thrown my money at the Giesemann Aquablue Coral as well but wasn't impressed. Not as white as the Azure, not as good looking as the coral+.

The Super Purple is interesting, I'd say closer to a coral+ than purple+ and doesn't paint the entire tank purple when used. I've paired it up with the GABA and the overall color in the tank is quite nice ... to my eyes anyway.
 
Go GABA GABA!:p Yep I have one AquaBlue Azure(GABA ;)), and Im using it on the flubber reef along with a Fiji purple and an assortment of blue bulbs(Actinic Blue, Superblue, and Blue Plus). I generally like the GABA, and had been using it before. When I was buying bulbs for the SPS reef I bought a bunch of Blue Plus and AquaBlue Specials with the intent of putting in a "basic" mix that was tried and true so I would put off fiddling for a while:debi:

As things stand right now, one ABS paired with one Fiji Purple and the rest blue plus is very nice. When I paired a more neutral white bulb like the GABA or KZ New Gen with the purple and the blue plus bulbs it was just too "electric blue" for me.

I quite like the Giesemann Actinic Blue bulbs though, as they are a richer blue, so I think I will be buying them in the future and Ill get more GABAs to try with them. I think that the Actinic blue/GABA/Fiji Purple combo might be quite nice.

I haven't tried the Super Purple yet, but it appears to be very close to the old AquaPink from the spectrums Ive seen. I like that bulb so I may give the SP a shot. I have consistently preferred the Fiji Purple and for me its been worth it to pay a few bucks extra to get it(I buy during the yearly sale)
 
Well the the new Potters Leopard wrasse didn't make it. They are a finicky fish as far as survival, I had him since Wednesday and he was eating and picking stuff off the reef, then suddenly dead today. He was pretty small, I'm thinking a bit bigger Leopard for his replacement might be prudent.
 
Well the the new Potters Leopard wrasse didn't make it. They are a finicky fish as far as survival, I had him since Wednesday and he was eating and picking stuff off the reef, then suddenly dead today. He was pretty small, I'm thinking a bit bigger Leopard for his replacement might be prudent.
Man, sad to hear leopard wrasses in general have a high mortality rate. I friend once told me to look at their feces to identify if they have internal parasites.
He said if they they are white they have internals if it is normal and brown they don't. I hope my new 3 leopards make it.
 
Leopard wrasse is very nice and pretty. The first one I got died within a week. However, I was lucky the second time. It is still with me and very fat. It does not eat flake food but pellet or frozen brine shrimp is fine.
 
I haven't owned a leopard wrasse yet, but I've looked into them in the past. One of the things that stood out was too look at the condition of the mouth. If it's beat up from banging on tank, they probably won't survive.
 
To bad about the potters! They are very tricky at first. They do not ship well. As Hung pointed out, they often come in with internal issues which are difficult for the hobbyist to fix because they won't eat prepared foods.
Leopard wrasses often come in with similar issues but in general are more hearty..
 
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